What TFI Module do I need?

MyLittlePony · May 5, 2017

1994 mustang with a V8 swap. Car has a history of having a code 212 after replacing a black motorcraft TFI module with a grey aftermarket one. TFI was swapped after a history (since 2009) of either leaving me stranded in a parking lot or stalling on a dangerously busy highway during rush hour. After cooling down (car wasn't overhearing) it would start back up again.

Anyway, my original black motorcraft has part #f14f-12a297-c1a printed on it, which doesn't seem to match anything, even googling pulls up no results.

ttocs · May 5, 2017

did you clean the heat sink and then put a fresh batch of heat transfer cream on it?

MyLittlePony · May 5, 2017

No, but I read several threads on various mustang and general ford forums about code 212 and how irritating it was that part stores sell people with black TFIs grey ones because their sources all say it applies to X car. ...I just assumed it was grey because it was aftermarket, and 212 was a SPOUT issue unrelated to the TFI, but these threads got me wondering.

ttocs · May 5, 2017

if you did clean the old heat transfer cream off and apply a fresh coat I would start with that. The cream should be less then a $1 and held on by two screws.

MyLittlePony · May 6, 2017

Are we talking about doing this with my old (black) TFI or my new (grey) TFI?

-edit-

you think that maybe that was why my car had a history of stalling/not starting after an hour or so of being driven? I just assumed I bought a bad used part for the v8 swap, not that the part had important grease cleaned from it.

Frank.JD.Perez · May 6, 2017

You can always blow it up and watch it burn...

Dont..

Dont rule out that option

ttocs · May 6, 2017

I would hope the color would be the only difference between the two and internally they would be the same but of course we have no way to test it. If you did not put the cream on it, I would start by removing the tfi and then putting on a fresh coat. If you still have the error its possible you burned it up since the sink was not properly attached with out the cream and I would see about returning/exchanging/buying a new one to try.

MyLittlePony · May 6, 2017

Lovely. Told my husband I needed heat transfer cream and he tells me that I need a front brake pad.

Brakes felt a bit off Thursday. Husband drove it last night, with me in the passengers seat to confirm location. This morning he checked, and BEHIND the wheel, the pad was missing!!!

ttocs · May 6, 2017

pay attention to a mi ssing pad before you fix this. A car that doesn't start sucks. A car that will not stop SUCKS

MyLittlePony · May 6, 2017

My husband just ran to the parts store and back in the only "working" car we have (a 1967 Triumph GT6). He came back to install them and apparently it DOES still have the pad (where else would it go? Wouldn't it just be rattling? Which is the sound it makes) anyway, we can't seem to diagnose it. It's always had that single metal tick sound since the upgrade (they're 2004 Mach 1 calipers). But Friday that same sound was a more prolonged, loose feeling. And JUST that wheel.

You don't need to tell me how important brakes are. This car has no ABS or traction control. It's already had its fair share of front end collisions. And every time I see an SN95 in a salvage yard, it always has front end damage. It's been to a few brake shops since the swap. They can't find anything.