So I’ve decided to go with a team z kmember I’m getting the kit so it comes with the control arms etc, can I run Koni struts with it? Also will be getting new rear control arms quad shocks and slotted and drilled rotors. My question is since I’m running coil overs with the k member how would I go about lowering the car? I just put rear Koni shocks and don’t want to put rear coil overs
1996 Mustang Gt aka Zeus
- Thread starter d.garza18
- Start date
ttocs
Post Whore
skip the quads and put the money towards quality lower control arm will not need them. You lower it with the coil overs by adjusting them. Check out harbor freights engine support bar if you do not have a lift/hoist to swap the K.
You can either get rear lowering springs by themselves or check with maximum motorsports, they have a coil over conversion kit for konis if I remember correctly
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RedTwilight
Active Member
As Scott said above; go ahead and get tubular upper and lower rear control arms with poly bushings. You will no longer need the quad shocks after installing those.
Adjusting ride height with coil-overs is as simple as adjusting the spring perch collar up or down on the coil-overs sleeve.
The engine support bar from Harbor Freight does come in very handy for the K member swap. I used it when I swapped in the Team Z K-member on my Fox last year. It worked great!
And as Lucy... umm... I mean Logan... said; yes Maximum Motorsports does have coil-overs for Koni shocks. Will will also want to match the springs (whether conventional or coil-over) to compliment the rate of the front springs. Here again Maximum Motorsports should be able to help if you give there tech line a call.
Adjusting ride height with coil-overs is as simple as adjusting the spring perch collar up or down on the coil-overs sleeve.
The engine support bar from Harbor Freight does come in very handy for the K member swap. I used it when I swapped in the Team Z K-member on my Fox last year. It worked great!
And as Lucy... umm... I mean Logan... said; yes Maximum Motorsports does have coil-overs for Koni shocks. Will will also want to match the springs (whether conventional or coil-over) to compliment the rate of the front springs. Here again Maximum Motorsports should be able to help if you give there tech line a call.
Let me know if you need a set of rear lower control arms.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well my motor has been running smoothly these past couple of days, my buddy worked on it while I was away did a whole tune up and turns out it was the motor knocking part of the midpipe was hitting the tranny and making noise I was just ready to give up (thank god I didn’t) anyways I found a guy locally to install cams for 500. Does anybody have any cams they’d recommend with the npi heads? Should I do springs as well
The time is coming, I’m almost ready to pull the heart out of my car and build it up. I was wanting to go with coyote/boss rods, with the stock crank, forged pistons, bigger cams valve springs etc, stock npi heads, and the rest of the things gaskets bearings studs etc whatever is needed. I believe I can get it done for $1500-2000. Now I haven’t rebuilt an engine, and modulars can be intimidating because of the timing. But can anyone put a list of things needed to get this done? And parts y’all recommend? Also when I do tear into it can someone sort of walk me through it
We here when you need us! Just ask question and wait..lol.
Get the headgasket/bolt/exhaust gasket kit from ford. Youll need new intake gaskets as well. If you dont want the egr, buy a block off plate (can easily be made). No egr...youll need to buy the exhaust manifold plug.
I like the idea of boss rods and forged pistons. Keeping the assembly lite is key!
You mention cams. I assume you are wanting supercharged cams due to boss rods and forged pistons? Their are guys out there that can recommend to a cam grinder a spec concoction supposedly taylor fit to your engine. Although these "spec" guys have no way of measuring or checking the cam companies work, they still seem to blow smoke. I personally would look towards compcams for info.
If you were to stay naturally aspirated, i like the boss rod idea, but would steer away from forged pistons only because of costs. Just glaze break hone the cylinders, re-ring stock type pistons(flat tops of course) maybe a set of lite wrist pins?, dont worry about new valve springs even with the nastiest cams...save your money.
Get the headgasket/bolt/exhaust gasket kit from ford. Youll need new intake gaskets as well. If you dont want the egr, buy a block off plate (can easily be made). No egr...youll need to buy the exhaust manifold plug.
I like the idea of boss rods and forged pistons. Keeping the assembly lite is key!
You mention cams. I assume you are wanting supercharged cams due to boss rods and forged pistons? Their are guys out there that can recommend to a cam grinder a spec concoction supposedly taylor fit to your engine. Although these "spec" guys have no way of measuring or checking the cam companies work, they still seem to blow smoke. I personally would look towards compcams for info.
If you were to stay naturally aspirated, i like the boss rod idea, but would steer away from forged pistons only because of costs. Just glaze break hone the cylinders, re-ring stock type pistons(flat tops of course) maybe a set of lite wrist pins?, dont worry about new valve springs even with the nastiest cams...save your money.
Thanks! Okay, so I believe H2s said something about bigger valves or something like that to help flow in the heads almost like the trickflows, I’d love to do that too! And what do you think this build could make n/a? Just curious. I would like to get into boost eventually so that’s why I’m leaning towards forged pistons. I’d love a supercharger but then again I’d like a turbo to, but with that being said I’d feel like a supercharger is a lot more reliable?
So I’m putting together a list of things needed to get this done and cost for everything etc. obviously I want to run stock heads, block and crank, boss rods believe those are $200, now I need suggestions for cams, bearings, rings, gaskets, pistons and everything else is going to need. Can someone put me a list of things needed and price if possible? Thanks !
If you have not decided 100% or made a front suspension purchase yet there is also QA1 ( https://www.qa1.net/suspension/handling-suspension-kits/ford-handling-kits ). They make a very nice K member, and suspension set up for the SN95. I'm going to be using their drag components when it comes that time. I have been through their factory and they build some very quality components. It is nice also that the factory is about 1/2 mile from my house.
ttocs
Post Whore
I went MM after looking around. While it cost much more after comparing the designs qa1 and team z just seemed like there was no way they could be as strong.
Intervention heard mixed reviews on the QA1 but I haven’t counted it out yet. Also the MM is nice to. But price is a little high. But who knows, maybe I’ll pull the trigger on it. Also I’m planning on having the motor out and rebuild that then do the suspension before I stab it back in. Going to do the rear then the front.
So let me ask, is this engine build going to be sent out for machine work? Or will you simply rebuild with better components? Cause if it were me, id simply rebuild a known running engine with better components. Why?....cause im cheap.
And i know the modulars are a solid platform. Ive rebuilt many.
And i know the modulars are a solid platform. Ive rebuilt many.
ttocs
Post Whore
I weighed the cheaper options and really wanted to get them and save the cash but I could not shake the idea that the first priority of the K-member should not be weight loss.
Plan on just rebuilding it. I like the cheap route as well haha. Unless it was needed I’d take it to a machine shop but I think I’ll be fine.
MM is a bit more $ yes, however no arguments that they are a stout piece. Mine is by no means a daily driver, so having it have it be beat on regularly on the street is not a deciding factor.
Just to throw it out there also there is RaceCraft, another Minnesota company (I try to buy USA, and buy local when ever I can). They legit make some cool stuff, including something I had never seen before, a 2" lowering spindle for the SN chassis.
https://www.racecraft.com/mustang-front-suspension-c-702_704/?zenid=2942c070fd43c7ea7a94c82cba980f3b
2" drop spindle's:
https://www.racecraft.com/2-drop-sp...9.html?zenid=2942c070fd43c7ea7a94c82cba980f3b
Silver95bird
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2016
- Messages
- 494
- Reaction score
- 113
That link should be pinned somewhere for the lowering fanatics.
