200,000 mile GT build

d.garza18

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No idea how the solid motor mounts felt, a buddy gave them to me because they were taking up space in his tool box lol. I never really planned on using them.

I never thought about putting a small bit of RTV on that tube! might have to do that
Are you interested in selling them?
And yeah man I’ve never had an issue with putting some!
 

Akurma

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Didn't expect this so soon but it showed up on my doorstep today. Ordered a Lokar flexible dipstick tube for the sole reason that the one on my 218k mile 2v was seized into the block and I simply could not justify spending ~$100+ on a OEM tube. Found this open box online for $42. My only concern is if the dipstick will be long enough for the 7qt Canton oil pan I have, maybe someone on here is using this dipstick

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lwarrior1016

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You’ll be fine with that. The dipstick does not change with the oil pan.

Why did you get a 7 quart aftermarket pan? The stock pan holds 7 just fine.
 

Akurma

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You’ll be fine with that. The dipstick does not change with the oil pan.

Why did you get a 7 quart aftermarket pan? The stock pan holds 7 just fine.

Good to know the dipstick will still be accurate! as for why I got this pan, I needed a pan for the new motor and came across this being cheaper than a stock pan. I absolutely dont need it but for less money it does the same job
 

lwarrior1016

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Good to know the dipstick will still be accurate! as for why I got this pan, I needed a pan for the new motor and came across this being cheaper than a stock pan. I absolutely dont need it but for less money it does the same job
I can’t argue with that logic at all. lol
 

Akurma

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Hit a bit of a snag, I am going start working on replacing the fuel tank and such. I ordered a Deatschwerks 340lph pump a long time ago and recently ordered a new fuel pump assembly. Simply because for the $70 I figured it might be a good idea to just have a new assembly and float verse my 22 year old one. Well that didn't pay off. The wired connector that the pump connects to on the new replacement assembly is a completely different style connector than the factory one and the DW 340lph pump. I reached out to both DW and the assembly maker (1A Auto.) to see what is going on. I have yet to hear back from Deatschwerks, but 1A auto has been in contact with me, still trying to figure it out.

I do see on Deatschwerks page for this pump, it shows a small pigtail harness that can be spliced in. My pump did not come with this harness. I also would like to avoid having to splice any wires that sit inside the fuel tank lol.

My only other hope is that the fuel pump assembly that is currently in my car, has the correct connector and I can just swap that over to the new tank. So much for a drop in install lol

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lwarrior1016

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Maybe you’ll get lucky, but typically you have to splice the connector in. It’s really no big deal, especially if you solder and heat shrink the connection. Heat shrink butt connectors would even work if you aren’t comfortable soldering.
 

d.garza18

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Hit a bit of a snag, I am going start working on replacing the fuel tank and such. I ordered a Deatschwerks 340lph pump a long time ago and recently ordered a new fuel pump assembly. Simply because for the $70 I figured it might be a good idea to just have a new assembly and float verse my 22 year old one. Well that didn't pay off. The wired connector that the pump connects to on the new replacement assembly is a completely different style connector than the factory one and the DW 340lph pump. I reached out to both DW and the assembly maker (1A Auto.) to see what is going on. I have yet to hear back from Deatschwerks, but 1A auto has been in contact with me, still trying to figure it out.

I do see on Deatschwerks page for this pump, it shows a small pigtail harness that can be spliced in. My pump did not come with this harness. I also would like to avoid having to splice any wires that sit inside the fuel tank lol.

My only other hope is that the fuel pump assembly that is currently in my car, has the correct connector and I can just swap that over to the new tank. So much for a drop in install lol

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I believe I saw you post this on a Facebook forum correct? Small world haha.
 

d.garza18

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Maybe you’ll get lucky, but typically you have to splice the connector in. It’s really no big deal, especially if you solder and heat shrink the connection. Heat shrink butt connectors would even work if you aren’t comfortable soldering.
I second this. It’s actually really easy. I typically use heat think butt connectors, but my cheap Walmart soldering gun does well!
 

ttocs

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if you do that go to napa or somewhere that sells marine heat shrink. The difference is that its thicker and it has a glue inside that melts around the wire and seals it. I never enjoy the price but you will feel and see the difference when you use it.
 

Venompower

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if you do that go to napa or somewhere that sells marine heat shrink. The difference is that its thicker and it has a glue inside that melts around the wire and seals it. I never enjoy the price but you will feel and see the difference when you use it.
I'll keep this in mind, because if after replacing my fuel filter and checking fuel rail pressure tonight... the pressure isn't correct I too may be on the way to dropping my tank and replacing my pump.
 

ttocs

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lol I would solder/shrink with the marine heat shrink myself but I always solder any connection that is outside the car or will be getting wet like this.
 

Akurma

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Maybe you’ll get lucky, but typically you have to splice the connector in. It’s really no big deal, especially if you solder and heat shrink the connection. Heat shrink butt connectors would even work if you aren’t comfortable soldering.

Well that's a bummer lol. Hopefully I do get lucky I plan to drop the tank this weekend so i'll find out soon enough. I guess having to solder isnt that big of a deal, just makes me feel a tad uneasy. Disappointed that I have yet to get a response from Deatschwerks about the missing connector pigtail that the pump was suppose to come with.

I believe I saw you post this on a Facebook forum correct? Small world haha.

I second this. It’s actually really easy. I typically use heat think butt connectors, but my cheap Walmart soldering gun does well!

Hahah yeah that was me! I wasn't sure if the SN95forums facebook page was connected to the actual forum, now I know!

if you do that go to napa or somewhere that sells marine heat shrink. The difference is that its thicker and it has a glue inside that melts around the wire and seals it. I never enjoy the price but you will feel and see the difference when you use it.

I'll keep the marine heat shrink in mind! I'm sure it is heavier duty than regular auto parts shrink and seeing as this is inside the fuel tank i'll spend the little bit extra lol

I'll keep this in mind, because if after replacing my fuel filter and checking fuel rail pressure tonight... the pressure isn't correct I too may be on the way to dropping my tank and replacing my pump.

Yeah if your filter is new and you injectors are known to be working properly my guess would be a fuel pump that is on its way out. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the tanks and fuel pumps are different for the 96-98 cars no? I plan to drop the tank this coming weekend. It honestly doesn't look like that bad of a job from the videos i've watched on it
 

Venompower

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Yeah if your filter is new and you injectors are known to be working properly my guess would be a fuel pump that is on its way out. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the tanks and fuel pumps are different for the 96-98 cars no? I plan to drop the tank this coming weekend. It honestly doesn't look like that bad of a job from the videos i've watched on it

I don't know about the injectors... its smooth at idle and part throttle so I assume they are fine. The X4 should tell the story through injector duty cycle, I'd imagine if they are getting blocked at WOT the duty cycle should increase as they try to flow the correct amount?

The tank doesn't look too bad, this will be my first time swapping pumps. Really hope the fuel filter is just clogged enough to block enough fuel at WOT, but flow enough for normal driving. The fuel filter swap will be done today on my lunch break.
 

Akurma

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Tackled the fuel tank this morning, honestly not a bad job I just took my time as I didn't want to break anything. I did unfortunately break one of the yellow plastic tabs for a line that connects to the charcoal canister on the driver side, going to have to find a replacement. Slowly lowered the tank down on a slight angle, doing so gave me some more room to pull the fuel filler neck out of a tank.

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Once the tank was out of the way I took a good look at the rear frame rails. Good news, bad news... good news is the passenger side rail is solid, has a little bit of rust starting but nothing a wire wheel and some rust inhibitor cant fix. The driver side on the other hand.. yeah its rough, real rough.

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Going to call a shop this coming week and prepare to bend over lol. I will for sure be undercoating this entire area just like I did with the inner fender areas up front.

After that I brushed the top of the tank off and undid the screws that hold in the fuel pump. I wanted to see what the fuel pump connector looked like compared to the replacement one I have. At some point the fuel pump assembly was replaced as there is a ford sticker with a date code from February 2004. Luckily it has the correct style connection! No idea why this aftermarket replacement decided to change the connection. Now im most likely just going to swap the fuel pump assembly over to the new tank.. Does anyone need a fuel pump assembly? lmao

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One question I have for everyone, there was one evap connection that seemed to not have any sort of hose or connector on it? Is this just some sort of vent? should there be a hose on this?

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Akurma

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Had a little bit of time today and removed the charcoal filter box. Two of the three bolts put up a fight, unfortunately snapping one bolt. With the charcoal filter box out of the way it gives more access to the driver side rear frame rail. While I was under there I removed my Borla Stingers as they were also sort of in the way of things. Never noticed how dry rotted my exhaust hangers have gotten, adding new one to the seemingly ever growing order list lol.

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A while back when I was removing the engine I snapped off one of the studs on the start solenoid. I found a replacement solenoid from PA Performance. Swapped the solenoids out in a matter of minutes. Was far cheaper than replacing the entire starter motor.

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Venompower

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This is always the issue, even the simplest job has some unforeseen thing that happens no matter how careful you are. That being said, it looks like you are making good progress and getting things knocked off the list. Fingers crossed the frame rail doesn't hurt the wallet too bad.
 

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