200,000 mile GT build

[joe65]

Took Friday and spend it at Ford Nationals in Carlise PA. Had some friends and family putting their cars in it and wanted to come and check it out. I ended up impulse purchasing at front and rear set of Mach 1 seats. Couldn't pass up the price of $225. Yes the driver seat has a a tear and some wear but the rest are in great shape! Even the driver seat is in better shape than my current 218k GT seats. I'll get it reupholstered at some point.

Great buy!

 

[Akurma]

Finally getting some time to work on this thing! Got the new Harmonic Balancer all situated and test fitted a 111 & 112inch belt and neither of them were long enough, need about a half inch more to get it to fit over the alternator. I returned those and ordered a 113 and a 114inch belt. Will update which one fits.

Also installed a oil filter sandwich plate, and to be honest I dont think I am going to use it. I know "GlowShift" isn't known for super high quality items but I figured, its a sandwich plate, how bad can be? Answer? bad. In their defense it fits and all but the quality of the hardware is terrible. the included bolts that block off the ports not in use are super easy to round off. I rounded off one of them just but tightening it with a 1/4 drive ratchet. I couldnt even get them to thread in all the way as can be seen in the picture below. Then I noticed that all of the ports had thread that are cut very rough and actually pushed some metal shavings into where the oil would flow. Overall, would not recommend.

So if anyone has any suggestions on a sandwich plate that will allow me to run a mechanical oil pressure gauge, or another way I can get an accurate reading, by all means let me know!

I hope to have the engine in the car by the end of the month.. We'll see how that goes

I am waiting for the following items

new serpentine belt
Intake manifold gaskets
Fuel hose
Starter
Bolts for driver side header to downpipe - Going to try what Weendoggy suggested
Oil dipstick tube ($100 BTW!?!?)
Speed sensor harness

 

[ttocs]

I know mishimoto makes one for the 302 that I have had for years and been happy with. It has an external port for a gauge.

 

[weendoggy]

Is it possible to take the Glow$hit piece off and tap the threaded holes? I'm guessing they are either 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and shouldn't be that hard even if they're not great. At least you'd know if you can/can't use it after you do it. Just a thought.

 

[Akurma]

Is it possible to take the Glow$hit piece off and tap the threaded holes? I'm guessing they are either 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and shouldn't be that hard even if they're not great. At least you'd know if you can/can't use it after you do it. Just a thought.

Yeah it is just 1/4" NPT thread so I can chase the threads and get better hardware for it, which I still might do. Just wanted to see if there was another way to get an oil pressure reading without using a sandwich plate

 

[lwarrior1016]

You could always put a tee in line with the stock oil pressure sender.

 

[Akurma]

You could always put a tee in line with the stock oil pressure sender.

... Why didn't I think of this before I bought this sandwich plate

 

[96blak54]

I like getting the oil psi readings from the heads at the lashers. I feel like this is a more solid evidence of oil presence. It requires 2 oil gauges and shows psi at both ends of the engine. Normal psi at the lashers running is roughly 5psi and climbs to around 15psi at high rpm. Any oil psi loss will show up quickly and youll know what end is starving .....just me thinking out loud.

 

[ttocs]

... Why didn't I think of this before I bought this sandwich plate

it takes a little playing to get it all lined up to fit and it doesn't look perty but it works.

 

[lwarrior1016]

... Why didn't I think of this before I bought this sandwich plate

With my car, I built a braided line that goes in to the filter adapter and remote mounted the oil pressure sender. If you did that, you could hide the tee up under the fender liner if you wanted to. Mine is a coyote, but same concept.

 

[Akurma]

I like getting the oil psi readings from the heads at the lashers. I feel like this is a more solid evidence of oil presence. It requires 2 oil gauges and shows psi at both ends of the engine. Normal psi at the lashers running is roughly 5psi and climbs to around 15psi at high rpm. Any oil psi loss will show up quickly and youll know what end is starving .....just me thinking out loud.

Hmm never heard of someone running two gauges like this, but i can totally see why someone would!

it takes a little playing to get it all lined up to fit and it doesn't look perty but it works.

I mean, it's near the bottom of the engine anyway nobody will really see it. Especially if it works, who cares lol

With my car, I built a braided line that goes in to the filter adapter and remote mounted the oil pressure sender. If you did that, you could hide the tee up under the fender liner if you wanted to. Mine is a coyote, but same concept. View attachment 11026

I like the idea of a SS braided line! I was going to run a copper line or something, but a SS line sounds much better and nicer!

 

[Akurma]

Another day, another parts delivery

One of the two belts I ordered arrived along with a fuel hose, but more on the fuel hose later. I routed the serpentine belt and to my surprise.. it fit! It is a 114.2 inch belt Continental belt, part #4061142. It was suppose to be just your regular belt, but they sent me their "Elite Series" belt, which is actually a gatorback style belt and I'm not complaining. It fit perfectly, not too tight, not too loose. However I did notice that with the alternator in loosely in place that the case of the alternator is resting on the pully of the P1SC. Now I think this will self correct itself once the intake manifold is on and the top alternator bracket is screwed in place, i dont think this will be an issue.

Now about that fuel hose I mentioned earlier. I wanted to replace the the fuel line connection that runs from the hard fuel lines from the passenger fender area to the fuel rail. I wanted to replace this as my current hose had a somewhat deep gouge in the rubber and it made me feel uneasy. Found out Ford still makes them and ordered a new one from rockauto. It arrived and has more gouges in the rubber than my 21 year old hose does! It has probably 6-8 different gouges in the rubber. What would you guys do? Ask for replacement one, or just send it?

 

[07GtS197]

I’d ask for a replacement just to be on the safe side.

About the alternator, I’m not sure the bracket will do much. The forward mounting holes are larger than the bolt diameter allowing movement. Most of the slack is taken up by the bottom mounting bolts. So you might run into the issue of it moving forward under load because of the bracket. I hope I’m wrong but wanted to throw that out there just in case.

 

[Venompower]

Another day, another parts delivery

One of the two belts I ordered arrived along with a fuel hose, but more on the fuel hose later. I routed the serpentine belt and to my surprise.. it fit! It is a 114.2 inch belt Continental belt, part #4061142. It was suppose to be just your regular belt, but they sent me their "Elite Series" belt, which is actually a gatorback style belt and I'm not complaining. It fit perfectly, not too tight, not too loose. However I did notice that with the alternator in loosely in place that the case of the alternator is resting on the pully of the P1SC. Now I think this will self correct itself once the intake manifold is on and the top alternator bracket is screwed in place, i dont think this will be an issue.

Now about that fuel hose I mentioned earlier. I wanted to replace the the fuel line connection that runs from the hard fuel lines from the passenger fender area to the fuel rail. I wanted to replace this as my current hose had a somewhat deep gouge in the rubber and it made me feel uneasy. Found out Ford still makes them and ordered a new one from rockauto. It arrived and has more gouges in the rubber than my 21 year old hose does! It has probably 6-8 different gouges in the rubber. What would you guys do? Ask for replacement one, or just send it?

As mentioned before i would grind down the Alternator case a little to clearance the pulley. I thought it would be fine on mine and the pulley was grinding on the case. Better safe than sorry, as remembering the order of the spacers and washers is a pain. Not difficult to remove the blower just a pain in the butt once everything is on…

 

[RAU03MACH]

those fuel lines have that rubber jacket around the plastic tube, so the tube itself wont get damaged, its just a protective sleeve
up to you to send it back , id run it

 

[joe65]

As mentioned before i would grind down the Alternator case a little to clearance the pulley. I thought it would be fine on mine and the pulley was grinding on the case. Better safe than sorry, as remembering the order of the spacers and washers is a pain. Not difficult to remove the blower just a pain in the butt once everything is on…

I just saw someone else having to do that on a procharger install on a mach 1. must be pretty common.

 

[Akurma]

Thanks for the feedback on the fuel line & alternator spacing issue! I took a closer look and I dont think the fuel line would even work as the one end has a different style connector on it. I'll send it back. As for the alternator, I guess i should plan on shaving it down a bit once its all together, oh well.

Had some time today and swapped over a few bolts I needed from the old motor and put them on the new one. I also took off the solid motor mounts and installed some Energy Suspension Poly mounts. Had to take the passenger mount to the bench grinder and shave off a tiny bit in order for it fit correctly as there is a chunk of aluminum right next where the mount bolts to, no big deal. These mounts will be far more comfortable than the solid mounts I had laying around. Hopefully they dont vibrate too much over stock.

Got another question for everyone, Installed a new coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold from the back of the water pump and out to the heater core. The little nub off the back of the water pump area has two O-rings on it and the pipe clears the two O-rings. However with the pipe bolted in place it doesn't appear to sit flush with the back of the block? Pictured below is what I am referring to, I really dont want it to leak and have to pull the intake manifold off if i dont have to.

 

[d.garza18]

Thanks for the feedback on the fuel line & alternator spacing issue! I took a closer look and I dont think the fuel line would even work as the one end has a different style connector on it. I'll send it back. As for the alternator, I guess i should plan on shaving it down a bit once its all together, oh well.

Had some time today and swapped over a few bolts I needed from the old motor and put them on the new one. I also took off the solid motor mounts and installed some Energy Suspension Poly mounts. Had to take the passenger mount to the bench grinder and shave off a tiny bit in order for it fit correctly as there is a chunk of aluminum right next where the mount bolts to, no big deal. These mounts will be far more comfortable than the solid mounts I had laying around. Hopefully they dont vibrate too much over stock.

Got another question for everyone, Installed a new coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold from the back of the water pump and out to the heater core. The little nub off the back of the water pump area has two O-rings on it and the pipe clears the two O-rings. However with the pipe bolted in place it doesn't appear to sit flush with the back of the block? Pictured below is what I am referring to, I really dont want it to leak and have to pull the intake manifold off if i dont have to.

How bad were the solid mounts?

 

[d.garza18]

Thanks for the feedback on the fuel line & alternator spacing issue! I took a closer look and I dont think the fuel line would even work as the one end has a different style connector on it. I'll send it back. As for the alternator, I guess i should plan on shaving it down a bit once its all together, oh well.

Had some time today and swapped over a few bolts I needed from the old motor and put them on the new one. I also took off the solid motor mounts and installed some Energy Suspension Poly mounts. Had to take the passenger mount to the bench grinder and shave off a tiny bit in order for it fit correctly as there is a chunk of aluminum right next where the mount bolts to, no big deal. These mounts will be far more comfortable than the solid mounts I had laying around. Hopefully they dont vibrate too much over stock.

Got another question for everyone, Installed a new coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold from the back of the water pump and out to the heater core. The little nub off the back of the water pump area has two O-rings on it and the pipe clears the two O-rings. However with the pipe bolted in place it doesn't appear to sit flush with the back of the block? Pictured below is what I am referring to, I really dont want it to leak and have to pull the intake manifold off if i dont have to.

It’ll be fine like that, I always put rtv on it for extra measure

 

[Akurma]

How bad were the solid mounts?

It’ll be fine like that, I always put rtv on it for extra measure

No idea how the solid motor mounts felt, a buddy gave them to me because they were taking up space in his tool box lol. I never really planned on using them.

I never thought about putting a small bit of RTV on that tube! might have to do that