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2v 5.4l swap thread
- Thread starter 96blak54
- Start date
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Sorry blak had to get off the forum after the continued belittling by the guy on the trump post. My normal shade of red was turning purple......anyway, i read that post before, will have to give it a try. One question, is moving the head over the .050" neccesary when bumping the valve size up? If the valve angle favors the exhaust side moving it closer on that side brings the exhaust valve even closer to the cylinder wall, right?
OP
OP
Right, but still just as shrouded as a pi exhaust valve. Actually both valves are well shrouded by cylinder walls, but port angles favor the setup unlike what we read about old cam in block type engines where the valve tulip interfere with incoming rush.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
And .050" wont bring the valve into contact with the cylinder wall?
OP
OP
A stock bore can handle a 1.840" intake valve with no head shifting or any valve seat replacement. The valve seat only needs to be machined. Uping the valve beyond 1.840" will need a new valve seat and bigger bore.
Installing a 1.900" intake valve will mean either big bore (and thats big!, nearly .130" bigger) or shifting the head. Which is a better idea keeping bore size small. Adding bore size increases intake port stall.
Moving the head over .050" to accept a trick flow 1.900" intake valve means other modifications such as milling .050 off the heads front cover area. Timing chain spacers adjusting. Intake manifold bolt holes elongated,...assuming intake mates to ports ok! As one side shifted .050" forwards, the other side will be shifted .050" back. The stock intake has plenty of port exit material for that, but observation will be nesasary to ensure a good seal.
Installing a 1.900" intake valve will mean either big bore (and thats big!, nearly .130" bigger) or shifting the head. Which is a better idea keeping bore size small. Adding bore size increases intake port stall.
Moving the head over .050" to accept a trick flow 1.900" intake valve means other modifications such as milling .050 off the heads front cover area. Timing chain spacers adjusting. Intake manifold bolt holes elongated,...assuming intake mates to ports ok! As one side shifted .050" forwards, the other side will be shifted .050" back. The stock intake has plenty of port exit material for that, but observation will be nesasary to ensure a good seal.
Frank.JD.Perez
Legend
i just wanna hear the car...im a simple man
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir, always above and beyond. No i dont want to increase bore size with also increasing compression the way i plan. Gotta keep the swirl, so the shift is what would happen. All the research youve been doing is very helpful. I dont have a 4.6 long block at my disposal. I hope you dont mind me picking your brain.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Im simple too, i love cars and the internal combustion engine.
OP
OP
No worries about the swirl! Port angle and valve angle both promote an unbelievable swirl! The cylinder wall is used to direct the swirl, especially in pi heads.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Ok swirl was the wrong term to use lol. Adding a larger surface area to the piston will slow the mixture down....i dont want that .....i suppose one could compensate with more squish....but id be running in a circle. Just offsetting the heads would be much easier
OP
OP
Keep in mind now, only npi can be offset. The bigger exhaust valve in the pi prohibits the shift.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Yup
OP
OP
See...you know dis man!!
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
I try....youre teaching me alot, i wouldnt of thought to shift the heads at all......you know small bore. Hows night shift going for ya?
OP
OP
It gets old...wife and 4kids demanding day time sleep while I retain my night schedule.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
I feel ya been on it for over a year now, when im supposed to be all daylight. My wife asked me once if the kids kept me up(i have 4 as well). I said no but you yelling at them did lol.
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
Im lazy....
Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
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Its ok. Hits us all from time to time
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A little bit of 5.4l adventure. The valve covers were leaking oil, both sides, which im not surprised cause the gaskets are orginal...lol. Rumaging around in my parts selection I found a set of gaskets in better shape.
Here is the adventure!
The driver valve cover was extracted first, but not untill 3hr later....lol. Nearly all cover bolts were removed by extentions and swivels. The last bolt was not accessible from the top. Hydraboost prevented any possibility to mount a socket. Let alone and extention.
Going under the car and snaking my arm up next to the steering shaft with an 8mm wrench, I managed to work out the bolt. Cool!
Not so cool...the cover wouldnt easily come out. The clutch cable and once again the hydraboost/brake booster (whatever) prevented any room for the cover to clear away from the cam towers.
Removing the clutch cable and then removing hydraboost nuts from under the dash allowed for the booster to be moved away from the firewall and move ever so slightly away from the cover allowing enough room to be vigorously mean to the cover for extraction.
Now after doing so, caused a little bit of damage to the inside of the cover were the hang up spot was. Not a big deal! The damage area could be cleared away by grinding off with a dremel or file with no affect to the cover. By doing this allowed the cover to slip right on in much easier than extraction. Now if only the new gasket will stay put on the cover and stop falling off, I can get this crap done!
Here is the adventure!
The driver valve cover was extracted first, but not untill 3hr later....lol. Nearly all cover bolts were removed by extentions and swivels. The last bolt was not accessible from the top. Hydraboost prevented any possibility to mount a socket. Let alone and extention.
Going under the car and snaking my arm up next to the steering shaft with an 8mm wrench, I managed to work out the bolt. Cool!
Not so cool...the cover wouldnt easily come out. The clutch cable and once again the hydraboost/brake booster (whatever) prevented any room for the cover to clear away from the cam towers.
Removing the clutch cable and then removing hydraboost nuts from under the dash allowed for the booster to be moved away from the firewall and move ever so slightly away from the cover allowing enough room to be vigorously mean to the cover for extraction.
Now after doing so, caused a little bit of damage to the inside of the cover were the hang up spot was. Not a big deal! The damage area could be cleared away by grinding off with a dremel or file with no affect to the cover. By doing this allowed the cover to slip right on in much easier than extraction. Now if only the new gasket will stay put on the cover and stop falling off, I can get this crap done!
OP
OP
The gasket design is to be pressed in the cover with this ziplock feel. Not the case with my original covers. So I grabed the covers these newer gaskets came from and tested the fit with them.
Reinstalling newer covers(modified area included) and newer gaskets that stayed put, made the process much easier! So much easier, that I really didnt have to unbolt the engine and tranny hoping to gain more room....which was a fail....dont waste time doing it.
Retracing my steps, I got it all back together. So far so good. On to the passenger side.
Reinstalling newer covers(modified area included) and newer gaskets that stayed put, made the process much easier! So much easier, that I really didnt have to unbolt the engine and tranny hoping to gain more room....which was a fail....dont waste time doing it.
Retracing my steps, I got it all back together. So far so good. On to the passenger side.
