2v rebuild kit? Need some advice

[Moffman]

Hello new to the forum. I'm going to be doing a pi swap over the winter and eventually slapping on a supercharger. I'm looking for a good rebuild kit with some forged internals and I am wondering if its worth it to buy a kit or buy the parts separately. My gt is at about 198,000km and I think a low end rebuild would do me some good. THX!

 

[DropTopPony]

Might be a little cheaper to piece everything together and you'll need to know what you are looking for. If you call a company and get an all in one package you won't be wondering if everything came.

A company like MMR can sell you all the short block components but also the timing chains/guides etc that a older car should replace.

 

[Moffman]

mmr has everything I could need, thanks for the advice!

 

[DropTopPony]

cushman motorsports is a another place that can sell you everything.

 

[DropTopPony]

The owner I believe lives in Canada IIRC so could save on shipping.

 

[nightfire]

I bought MMR's Street Mod 1000's rotating assembly and had a local mod motor builder assemble it for me. I cost me less even with labor than their MMR SM 1000 shortblock. Make sure to ask them to have the pistons notched and definitely get some ARP head studs

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Manley $500 forged pistons, re-use stock crank and $160 for Ford Boss rods is good for a LOT of power as long as you stay under 7k rpm. Forged crank will get you above 7k safely but most street cars don't need that. Price out bearings/rings/rod bolts, machine work on the motor, ARP studs and whatever else. Its not exactly as cheap as ppl think plus the cost of the blower and if you want to do good heads/cams to take advantage of the blower.

I would strongly consider pricing it out vs a Coyote motor for $5700 on LRS right now. It might be closer than you think or even cheaper to do the Coyote. I would have a hard time justifying a motor build with the Coyote available, even a budget build .

 

[DropTopPony]

I agree, if I was just starting this process right now I would look seriously at a Coyote swap. When I add up what it cost for Teksid/Manley rods/pistons/misc fasteners /crank/p&p 2V heads/cams/blower etc etc I would most likely do a Coyote had I bought my car recently.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Honestly by the time one builds a motor or does anything crazy, it is often more cost effective to just buy a 2011 complete GT and go. I know I could sell my 98 for $6-$7k as it sits right now. I could find a really nice A6 2011 GT for $22k in some older gentleman's garage. $15k is about what one would spend for a Built motor/trans/rear setup so honestly... I am really kicking around enjoying my 98 for another summer or two as it sits and then selling it and buying a 2011 automatic Coyote. I can get financing at 2.5% from my Credit union for a 5 year used car loan so why not?

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

Manley $500 forged pistons, re-use stock crank and $160 for Ford Boss rods is good for a LOT of power as long as you stay under 7k rpm. Forged crank will get you above 7k safely but most street cars don't need that. Price out bearings/rings/rod bolts, machine work on the motor, ARP studs and whatever else. Its not exactly as cheap as ppl think plus the cost of the blower and if you want to do good heads/cams to take advantage of the blower.

I would strongly consider pricing it out vs a Coyote motor for $5700 on LRS right now. It might be closer than you think or even cheaper to do the Coyote. I would have a hard time justifying a motor build with the Coyote available, even a budget build .

This

Mod max has everything.