302 S/C or 347 S/C

[Steven]

Waste of time. You'll spend 1500-2000 on a decent, and by all means I mean decent with every meaning of the word, forged shortblock, as well as all the money for a top end, for you to put together and run for 6 months before you post a thread on here "my block disappeard, now what?"

Stroked 5.0s are a waste of time, always have been, they've never made the power projected in most cases, and in rare cases do they actually increase power. Most of the time they just increase the lateral load on the block, increasing your risk of splitting her up the middle. I have a set of forged eagle 5.40" rods. I'd use them but why bother with a stock block. Do yourself a favor, spend the money once, otherwise you'll be paying for it all over again.

 

[modo]

Waste of time. You'll spend 1500-2000 on a decent, and by all means I mean decent with every meaning of the word, forged shortblock, as well as all the money for a top end, for you to put together and run for 6 months before you post a thread on here "my block disappeard, now what?"

Stroked 5.0s are a waste of time, always have been, they've never made the power projected in most cases, and in rare cases do they actually increase power. Most of the time they just increase the lateral load on the block, increasing your risk of splitting her up the middle. I have a set of forged eagle 5.40" rods. I'd use them but why bother with a stock block. Do yourself a favor, spend the money once, otherwise you'll be paying for it all over again.

exactly... why change the stock rotating assembly when it will take more then 600 rwhp and the block won't. been there done that.

 

[Steven]

Waste of time. You'll spend 1500-2000 on a decent, and by all means I mean decent with every meaning of the word, forged shortblock, as well as all the money for a top end, for you to put together and run for 6 months before you post a thread on here "my block disappeard, now what?"

Stroked 5.0s are a waste of time, always have been, they've never made the power projected in most cases, and in rare cases do they actually increase power. Most of the time they just increase the lateral load on the block, increasing your risk of splitting her up the middle. I have a set of forged eagle 5.40" rods. I'd use them but why bother with a stock block. Do yourself a favor, spend the money once, otherwise you'll be paying for it all over again.

exactly... why change the stock rotating assembly when it will take more then 600 rwhp and the block won't. been there done that.

You'll stuff that shiny new rotating assembly away behind that block but it won't be long till you get to see it again, most likely in pieces lol.

 

[LAFENATU]

Waste of time. You'll spend 1500-2000 on a decent, and by all means I mean decent with every meaning of the word, forged shortblock, as well as all the money for a top end, for you to put together and run for 6 months before you post a thread on here "my block disappeard, now what?"

Stroked 5.0s are a waste of time, always have been, they've never made the power projected in most cases, and in rare cases do they actually increase power. Most of the time they just increase the lateral load on the block, increasing your risk of splitting her up the middle. I have a set of forged eagle 5.40" rods. I'd use them but why bother with a stock block. Do yourself a favor, spend the money once, otherwise you'll be paying for it all over again.

exactly... why change the stock rotating assembly when it will take more then 600 rwhp and the block won't. been there done that.

You'll stuff that shiny new rotating assembly away behind that block but it won't be long till you get to see it again, most likely in pieces lol.

Ever see the pics I posted a long time ago with the block carnage?

 

[Hoseitdown]

H/C/I on the 302,

powerglide,

175 shot

Transbrake,

4.56 gears,

3800 stall.



add that all together, and whattya get?
















a LOW 6 sec high 5 sec 1/8 mile car, on slicks of course.



theres a local guy here, put a BONE STOCK, (valve covers never beeen off motor), in a lx hatch, sprayed it 175 with a glide, and 4.30 gears and went 6.40 in the 1/8... something to think about,

now before i get flamed at here,

it wont be very streetable. like... not at all.

 

[Steven]

H/C/I on the 302,

powerglide,

175 shot

Transbrake,

4.56 gears,

3800 stall.



add that all together, and whattya get?
















a LOW 6 sec high 5 sec 1/8 mile car, on slicks of course.



theres a local guy here, put a BONE STOCK, (valve covers never beeen off motor), in a lx hatch, sprayed it 175 with a glide, and 4.30 gears and went 6.40 in the 1/8... something to think about,

now before i get flamed at here,

it wont be very streetable. like... not at all.

Thats race car. If a motor went out in my race car, I wouldn't give two licks. I'd tow it home and let it sit till i fixed it. But thats a useless car on the street.

 

[Steven]

Waste of time. You'll spend 1500-2000 on a decent, and by all means I mean decent with every meaning of the word, forged shortblock, as well as all the money for a top end, for you to put together and run for 6 months before you post a thread on here "my block disappeard, now what?"

Stroked 5.0s are a waste of time, always have been, they've never made the power projected in most cases, and in rare cases do they actually increase power. Most of the time they just increase the lateral load on the block, increasing your risk of splitting her up the middle. I have a set of forged eagle 5.40" rods. I'd use them but why bother with a stock block. Do yourself a favor, spend the money once, otherwise you'll be paying for it all over again.

exactly... why change the stock rotating assembly when it will take more then 600 rwhp and the block won't. been there done that.

You'll stuff that shiny new rotating assembly away behind that block but it won't be long till you get to see it again, most likely in pieces lol.

Ever see the pics I posted a long time ago with the block carnage?

I believe so. Was yours the one where the crank split in two?

 

[Hoseitdown]

H/C/I on the 302,

powerglide,

175 shot

Transbrake,

4.56 gears,

3800 stall.



add that all together, and whattya get?
















a LOW 6 sec high 5 sec 1/8 mile car, on slicks of course.



theres a local guy here, put a BONE STOCK, (valve covers never beeen off motor), in a lx hatch, sprayed it 175 with a glide, and 4.30 gears and went 6.40 in the 1/8... something to think about,

now before i get flamed at here,

it wont be very streetable. like... not at all.

Thats race car. If a motor went out in my race car, I wouldn't give two licks. I'd tow it home and let it sit till i fixed it. But thats a useless car on the street.

yeah i know... i mentioned that.


but it will out run it.
unless he has a glide also...hahahaahah

 

[mikey94gt]

Just saw a dude this weekend running 10.50's on a GT40 head 302 with a cobra intake, otherwise stock. he also had a 60MM Turbonetics kit on it. car looked, sounded and acted stock. until he floored it, anyways. he had a C4 in it too, with trans brake trickery and all.

 

[OnyxCobra]

Summit Racing:

Airflow Research 1472 - AFR 165cc SBF Outlaw Street Heads = $1,435.95
Airflow Research 1492 - AFR 185cc SBF Outlaw Street Heads = $1,459.95

Difference = $24 => It's a no-brainer IMO if he going with a blower...

plus notching the pistons.

 

[Ryno8705]

he would at the very least go .030 over to make a 306, which requires aftermarket pistons.

Not necessarily.

You cut off half my quote. If he wants to keep up with a 454 LSX motor, he sure as hell isn't going to do it with a re-honed 302 and stock pistons. If he goes with new pistons, which is almost guaranteed to do, anyone with the motor that far apart is likely to bore it out to be sure the piston walls are straight. So, 'not necessarily,' whatever. He's going to get his ass handed to him by his brother if he goes with the 'not necessarily' route.

 

[LAFENATU]

And what I am saying in general is...not his situation specifically is, you don't always have to get new pistons for a bore.

 

[Steven]

Without forced induction it's a lost cause. And forced induction on a factory block is an even worst lost cause. People run them all the time but in reality theres a big wall for pushrods and we are exploring that right now. I'm at the point I'm going to throw in a dohc motor. Nothing beats a good ol pushrods motor but damn it sucks sometime

 

[modo]

Without forced induction it's a lost cause. And forced induction on a factory block is an even worst lost cause. People run them all the time but in reality theres a big wall for pushrods and we are exploring that right now. I'm at the point I'm going to throw in a dohc motor. Nothing beats a good ol pushrods motor but damn it sucks sometime

what? what wall is this your talking about. that lsx motor has pushrods so i don't get your point

 

[Steven]

Without forced induction it's a lost cause. And forced induction on a factory block is an even worst lost cause. People run them all the time but in reality theres a big wall for pushrods and we are exploring that right now. I'm at the point I'm going to throw in a dohc motor. Nothing beats a good ol pushrods motor but damn it sucks sometime

what? what wall is this your talking about. that lsx motor has pushrods so i don't get your point

the LSx also doesn't have a piece of shit for a block. Pushrod design is great but ford is bad off in general for sake of making use of factory blocks

 

[Ryno8705]

And what I am saying in general is...not his situation specifically is, you don't always have to get new pistons for a bore.

Funny, because I was specifically talking about the OP, so I don't understand why you jumped in and try to speak otherwise. I do see I could have been more clear about the OP would want to get new pistions with a 306, but still, damn.

Anyway, if you want to go with a blower, it's not a bad idea to step up to a 351 block because they are without-question stronger than a 302 block. The mains hold the 351w back, but as far as splitting a block down the middle, not as easy.

 

[modo]

Without forced induction it's a lost cause. And forced induction on a factory block is an even worst lost cause. People run them all the time but in reality theres a big wall for pushrods and we are exploring that right now. I'm at the point I'm going to throw in a dohc motor. Nothing beats a good ol pushrods motor but damn it sucks sometime

what? what wall is this your talking about. that lsx motor has pushrods so i don't get your point

the LSx also doesn't have a piece of **** for a block. Pushrod design is great but ford is bad off in general for sake of making use of factory blocks

your not making much sense here. first you claim its the pushrods holding it back and now its the block.

you are comparing a block that hasn't changed much since 1979 and has a lot of webbing removed over time to make up the fleet mpg average by the epa. take a late 60s 289 block and it will take at least 700 rwhp possibly more. spend the 1600 bucks on a boss block or find a used a4, r302. they will take 1000+ rwhp without thinking twice.

my stock shortblock is still in one piece and it took 16+ lbs from a s-trim for almost 100,000 miles and went 126 mph in the quarter mile consistantly. thats well over 500 rwhp.

 

[Brian95SVT]

Just get a new block, do a 331 stroker setup with an s-trim and make good power and have reliability.

 

[Steven]

I did not say it was the pushrod holding it back. I'm saying compared to a dohc motor it's a whole different ball game. I'm sorry but I don't like buildig motors with the extreme ability and history of falling apart. I live pushrods but the ford blocks are shit. There's not a whole lot to be gained from a Windsor swap. Numbers don't lie when the results of a swap come out. Shifty efficiency more weight and less peak power. However for the common person they work just fine but I can't afford to do this multiple times when I'm in college.

 

[modo]

I did not say it was the pushrod holding it back. I'm saying compared to a dohc motor it's a whole different ball game. I'm sorry but I don't like buildig motors with the extreme ability and history of falling apart. I live pushrods but the ford blocks are ****. There's not a whole lot to be gained from a Windsor swap. Numbers don't lie when the results of a swap come out. Shifty efficiency more weight and less peak power. However for the common person they work just fine but I can't afford to do this multiple times when I'm in college.

windsor swap? are you talking about putting a 351 in? a 302 is a windsor motor... you will spend more in the long run to make less power putting a dohc motor in then building a real 302 based motor with a good block. boss block is 1600. my little 331 has made well over 800 on pump gas more then once lol.