4v build q's

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 5, 2013

I'm new and a got a few questions. I've worked on mod motors before but I'm no master mechanic by any means and I wanted to see some opinions. Ok I got a 97 cobra with 150k miles planning on doing a near complete refresh. The motor may or may not have a thrown timing chain I'm going to look at it this weekend, either way the motor has to go. I'm planning on a single turbo build and thought, could I not buy a cheap lincoln mark 8 engine swap the forged crank in, keep my Intake cams from the cobra (since the exhaust side is the same) keep my intake manifold port the heads. Then pull the mk8 rotating assemble throw some forged rods and pistons up in there install the turbo kit. tune and crank? Will the t45's bellhousing mount up to this engine? I plan on getting a promotion built t45, and doing a 31 spline rear end. Sorry if I sound dumb I know a little less about this car my last one was an 03 blown gt. Also planned on selling the block and small stuff from the 97 engine to recover what I would have in the lincoln engine.

MustangChris · Jul 5, 2013

no problem man.

if you're planning on going single turbo, keep your heads.
keep your cobra cams.
keep your engine block.
keep your crank.

that being said, all you want to replace is the rods/pistons. Refresh your heads. Degree your cams.

I suggest a t45soure T45. I've only heard good things about them. Promotion may make a good product as well, I've just never met anyone who used them.

if you do decide to use a lincoln motor (which wouldnt make any sense, to be honest) the rear-wheel drive type will bolt up to your bell housing. the FWD may not (they have different motor mount styles anyways, so you couldnt use a FWD lincoln block...)

doing a 31 spline rear end is a waste of money. Most people run hardened 28 spline axles with no problems. I bumped up to 31 spline axles and it required a new differential. If you stick with 28 spline you can still use your ford T-lok that came OEM and just rebuild that. It will save you money in the long run.

the lincoln motor and the cobra motor are so similar that it would be counter-intuitive to swap them.
Blocks are the same (both are Teksid)
Heads are the same (both are B-head)
Cams are different (you'd use the cobra cams)
Your cobra has an 8 bolt crank.
... . .. .. .

catch my drift? lol.

feel free to ask anything brotha. its what we're here for!

atlanticblue98 · Jul 5, 2013

I wouldn't port the b-heads other than bowl work.

I would switch to c heads no matter the setup. C heads are superior to b heads in every aspect.

Why swap all the cobra stuff onto a Lincoln motor when you already have the cobra motor?

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 8, 2013

I understand that. The only reason I considered the swap was that I could get a motor for the same price as the dang timing chain for this one (if that's whats wrong). But at the same time I guess its all got to come out either way (rods, pistons). I've got all the bolts out of the valve covers but one im gonna tackle it tonight that dang one on the bottom directly out from the friggen master cylinder oh to joy..... The reason I haven't really given c heads too much of a thought is I have a friend with a mustang shop that will port the b heads for me fairly cheap, and my goal is 650 rwhp give or take a little, That's not a high goal either way, I figure heck one of my close friends just recently put down right under 800 rwhp with his ported 2v heads with a small twin kit from hellion, I wouldn't imagine 650 to be all that hard on b heads with some good arp heads studs to back them up. Thank you guys for the advice I suppose my best bet is to deal with what I have and save a little money. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 9, 2013

Oh btw what will be really fun is trying to get this year old gas out of the tank on just jackstands...... My friend has a lift for when i get to pulling the motor out but I got to drive it there first yeehaw lol....

Mystic SVT · Jul 11, 2013

Do not port the B heads, the intake ports are already big enough as they are. Do a good valve job and if money is there, go with 1 mm bigger intake valves.

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 11, 2013

Got it thanks. SHould be able to afford it I'm taking my time putting the money together for everything. Got most of it apart now just got a fuel line in my way over the passenger valve cover, I have a fuel line diconnect tool got the first line fairly easy but the other ones slightly smaller and I cant get the tool to fit, so I guess I'm picking up another disconnect tool today sheesh......

miss.mod.50 · Jul 11, 2013

If your pulling the motor, I'd suggest getting the 4-way fuel & a/c disconnect tool, I think I got it for like $12 at advance auto a few years back and never needing anything besides those 4 sizes on any of my stangs.

Also, do your homework on the oversize valves. I just got burnt on that.

MustangChris · Jul 11, 2013

well [MENTION=18380]miss.mod.50[/MENTION] if you would have asked [MENTION=12909]Mystic SVT[/MENTION] he coulda pointed you in the right direction! (Probably right away from MMR. lol)

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 11, 2013

Yeah motor will deffinately be coming out im just trying to get into it to see whats up if I can get it started I can move it to my friends house where there's a lift. I have a four way but for some reason the size that appears correct wont quite shut just a hair more so I cant get it into the lock.. errrr I'll get it one way or another Hopefully tonight.

miss.mod.50 · Jul 11, 2013

MustangChris said:
well miss.mod.50 if you would have asked Mystic SVT he coulda pointed you in the right direction! (Probably right away from MMR. lol)

I was trying to play nice and not name names :angel: lol

MustangChris · Jul 11, 2013

pffft. if they dont want names named they'll play nice and give some damn customer service!

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 12, 2013

OK need help here There is two fuel lines going into the fuel rail on the passenger side ok duh, my problem is I got the top one it was a 1/2 disconnect the one below it is a little smaller but I put the 3/8 on it and its a tad bigger than that I can get the tool on it but its not completely flush and only one side can actually go into the lock, anyone know what size this one is. I feel a little stupid on this one....

cobraracer46 · Jul 12, 2013

97Junkstang_cobra said:
I plan on getting a promotion built t45,

I would look into getting a T56 instead of going with a built T45. A T56 is more money for sure, however, the T56 has a removable bell housing and the T45 deos not so clutch swaps with the T56 will be million times easier. The T56 also has a higher torque capacity than the T45.

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 12, 2013

I've debated it it will just depend on where the money is, the tranny is one of the last things I'll be doing aside from the rear end. If the moneys there I will deffinately go t56 if not I'll just build what I have.

MustangChris · Jul 13, 2013

i suggest building what you have.... personally.

97Junkstang_cobra · Jul 15, 2013

well I got the passenger side valve cover off, Primary and secondary chains look good not slack at all I gently pried up with a flat head on both and they're on there good. Now for the dreaded drivers side.... I would have this done already but I'm building my house right now too so im just getting a few minutes a night with it. I got a trash bag stretched protecting this valve train on it right now lol. The spark plug gaskets were junk though. If the other timing chain is good I need to get the gas out some how....Then I can take it from there maybe do a compression test and make sure it hasn't spun a rod bearing or something to that effect, Or I bought this car from an idiot and it didnt have nothing much wrong with it. Either way I just need it to run so I can get it to a lift, and my luck I pull the driver side and its gone like this wind LOL.