95 GT - Das Llama!

DKblue98GT

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Nice to hear that it runs after so long. Congrats, you've done some great work on that car.
 
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mcglsr2

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Yah I'm pretty happy about it. I have to say, it's nice to be behind the wheel again. It's such a different feeling car from the STI. I'm really looking forward to get some more ponies under the hood. I drove the car this afternoon around on some errands. It didn't let me down ;) The car is a little hard to crank after it has been driving. Like when I get back to it in the parking lot. It's a little sluggish to turn over. I wasn't sure if it was the battery or what.

So when I got back to the house, and put the car in the garage, I turned it off and cranked it again like 4 to 5 times in a row, to see if it would in fact not start. Well. It struggled each time - but it *did* start. So I'm not sure it's the battery, though I think it is. I don't think it's the cable to the starter, it's 4 AWG. I don't know. I need to think on it some. I think it may be the way the battery operates while "hot cranking."
 
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mcglsr2

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Way too quiet, that needs to change.

Lol yes - it is a little quiet :) I've got a set of long tubes that have been sitting in the garage for a while - those will go on. But, not gonna lie, I actually like the exhaust note right now. It's not too loud, so when I get on it, it's actually a nice mixture of exhaust note, engine noise, and gear whine. I kind of like it :) The long tubes will certainly alter that though. For the better, me thinks.
 

1998cobrasvt

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Im with everybody else so ill just keep it simple! Congrats man!!! Excited for you!! :)
 

g36 monkey

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I actually am not sure you want to put long tubes on, considering you like to play in the twisty department. Long tubes will make you lose a lot of that low end grunt that gets you out of corners. I might even go back to shorties
 
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mcglsr2

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I actually am not sure you want to put long tubes on, considering you like to play in the twisty department. Long tubes will make you lose a lot of that low end grunt that gets you out of corners. I might even go back to shorties

You bring up a very interesting point. It's actually something I've been stewing on for a little bit now. I'm going to create a new thread in a bit on horsepower and torque. I'm heading off on vacation for 2 weeks, so I was debating on whether I post it now before I leave or if I wait until I get back. I suspect I'll do it before I leave :)
 

1998cobrasvt

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I actually am not sure you want to put long tubes on, considering you like to play in the twisty department. Long tubes will make you lose a lot of that low end grunt that gets you out of corners. I might even go back to shorties
g36 monkey mcglsr2

I have Long tubes and like to play in the twisties department as well, I do not use low rpms when racing.. keep the rpms above 4,000 and she loses nothing.
 

g36 monkey

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Believe me, when it comes to autox, you want all the bottom end power you can get. There was a significant loss in bottom end on my car when I added long tubes.
 

1998cobrasvt

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Believe me, when it comes to autox, you want all the bottom end power you can get. There was a significant loss in bottom end on my car when I added long tubes.

Def agree that the long tubes help the upper and all that. What im trying to say is that i never let my rpms get low enough for the "significant loss" to make a big deal. I love my long tubes!!! SEX!
 

Tally_4.6

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Yeah i've autocrossed only once, but i was up there in the rpms on each run.

Seems to me longtubes would be beneficial.
 

g36 monkey

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You did it at a much larger course than is typical, so you had room to let the car stretch its' legs. Typically, you are navigating very tight corners, at speeds so low you have to decide whether shifting down to first is more beneficial, or if you should just stay in 2nd gear. With more bottom end power, it's easier to stay in 2nd and power out of it without losing time. The harder it is for the car to get going is what makes those turns cumbersome, especially for Mustangs.
 

1998cobrasvt

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You did it at a much larger course than is typical, so you had room to let the car stretch its' legs. Typically, you are navigating very tight corners, at speeds so low you have to decide whether shifting down to first is more beneficial, or if you should just stay in 2nd gear. With more bottom end power, it's easier to stay in 2nd and power out of it without losing time. The harder it is for the car to get going is what makes those turns cumbersome, especially for Mustangs.

Every car has a different way of doing things, thats what works best for the one you drove, no doubt. My other mustang would require a whole different approach on the track more similar to yours, as would the porsche i drove which likes lower rpms. Sometimes lower is better sometimes higher is better. In the case of my 4v having the wide rev range and 4.10 gears it does just fine keeping in the powerband but im ONLY refering to how i drive MY 4v.
 

g36 monkey

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The 4.10s help to make up for a lot of what is lost in the slow end of the turn because of the long tubes. I'm not saying they will make the car slow. But I noticed a huge bottom end difference when I went to my LTs with a slight gain at the top.
 

Nighttrain

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What section are you putting your other thread in? My opinion on the headers though.....everything you do to your car works together so if you have shorter gears, the longtubes wont give you the full beni's it could if you had taller gears. Just like anything else, all your stuff has to work together.
 
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mcglsr2

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When I was doing some AutoX previously, I pretty much stayed in 2nd gear. I haven't been in a while since that track shut down and I haven't had time (or a working car) to look into another location. I will start that soon.

LT's are going on - and yes I will lose some bottom end for sure. How much, though, I am not sure. And when I do the H/C/I swap I think that will help make up for whatever I might have lost.

I am back home from Africa, so back to the car. I ordered a replacement O2 sensor for the one that would peg at lean at random times, hoping it's the sensor and not the Zt-3 unit itself.

I need to wrap up the driver door panel - that's pretty much the only thing that's preventing the car from looking mostly finished right now. And it's time to start looking at getting a paint job...
 

1998cobrasvt

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Big ups for das llama ! Cant wait to see her back on the road burnin sum rubber
 
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mcglsr2

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So one of the minor issues that has plagued me since the cluster swap is a bouncing speedo needle. The needle will read accurately as I'm driving along, however it will also bounce around. For example, if I'm driving 38 mph the needle will be at 38 mph, then bounce up to like 80 or 90 then back down to 38mph. A couple seconds or so later will bounce again. So I can sort of figure out what speed I'm going but it's pretty annoying. Time to fix it.

The issue, I think, is in how I wired it. I spliced it into the wires that the stock speedo used. Specifically, the SIG is going to VSS(+) and the GND is going to VSS(-). After re-reviewing the install instructions, I think I am going to send VSS(-) to a dedicated ground wire rather than using the cluster harness. I'm hoping it's getting some interference and that's what is making it bounce. This should be pretty easy to wire up. I'll report back on whether it is successful or not (and if it, I will update my wiring diagrams).
 

lwarrior1016

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So one of the minor issues that has plagued me since the cluster swap is a bouncing speedo needle. The needle will read accurately as I'm driving along, however it will also bounce around. For example, if I'm driving 38 mph the needle will be at 38 mph, then bounce up to like 80 or 90 then back down to 38mph. A couple seconds or so later will bounce again. So I can sort of figure out what speed I'm going but it's pretty annoying. Time to fix it.

The issue, I think, is in how I wired it. I spliced it into the wires that the stock speedo used. Specifically, the SIG is going to VSS(+) and the GND is going to VSS(-). After re-reviewing the install instructions, I think I am going to send VSS(-) to a dedicated ground wire rather than using the cluster harness. I'm hoping it's getting some interference and that's what is making it bounce. This should be pretty easy to wire up. I'll report back on whether it is successful or not (and if it, I will update my wiring diagrams).

Thats what I was going to suggest. Run the speedo straight from the transmission speed sensor. I tested mine that way and was really consistent with the results.
 

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