95 GT - Das Llama!

[RichV]

The P heads are a tight fit. I used a set of 90* boot wires, the #7 cylinder is the problem child with my BBK shortys. Not sure if you'll have issues, but if you run LTs, you may be fine Most LTs run down rather than snaking around to a OEM location collector. The heat shields are a must.

The GTS IIRC is a options package that can be verified. There was a long thread about it a couple of years ago on here. My 94 has the same or similar options as yours, I think no fog lights, cloth, and no power seat are some clues, but I don't remember for sure.

 

[mcglsr2]

RichV, how hard is it would you say to change your plugs? Do you have to do anything crazy like use a special socket tool or pop off a header?

 

[mcglsr2]

Alright, Scottrod rear seat delete panels are ordered as well.

I also updated the list of To Dos at post #61. I added a set of dependencies as well as a few more things to the table. The next two things I think I'll be focusing on are the brakes/COs/PHB and the roll bar.

 

[RichV]

I remove headers/motor at least once per season, so no big deal to me. My plugs get changed maybe once every couple of years, the #7 is tight, but you can get in there with a open wrench if push came to shove. The rest is just a standard socket. I read you can make a socket by grinding out a small area for #7 which is no biggie, a cheepie socket is $1.

 

[mcglsr2]

Alright, so I've done some more research/reading pertaining to painting. My wheels are gross. The car, while in okay shape, certainly has it's bad spots. I've been giving some thought to paint, and the color change, and doing it for cheapies, but still have it look decent...well, I think I have a plan. I've been reading more and more about plasti-dip and I suspect that's what I'll do. I've been pouring over youtube vids and forum posts, it looks pretty solid. There's a guy here on this forum I think that plasti-dipped his car, blaze blue iirc, came out pretty good.

So I've ordered a matte black kit for my wheels. I'll do those, see how it turns out and if it lives up to all the hype. And if so, I'll be getting myself a pro kit for the car. Some of the colors look awesome and I would love to try them out - but considering the past experience I had with the orange wheels, I think I'll go for understated-yet-pleasant matte white for now

 

[mcglsr2]

Aaand the 2nd round of work by my mechanic has been complete. The A/C compressor got replaced with a new one, car (finally) blows cold air and continues to do so longer than 15 minutes. Also the power steering pump seal got replaced. He was able to stop it from leaking when he looked at the car 2 weeks ago, so I almost had him not replace it. Glad I did though. When he removed it, it apparently fell apart it was so brittle. So new seals in, good to go. That's the last bit of work needed by mechanic, the next set of mini-projects are to be done by me.

 

[alex302]

Very nice build!! And your from FL very nice.

What club did you go with to Sebring? I've been wanting to get out to the road course again.

 

[mcglsr2]

Very nice build!! And your from FL very nice.

What club did you go with to Sebring? I've been wanting to get out to the road course again.

Thanks And it was NASA. I've had good experiences with them. As far as auto-x, there's a local "track" that does it every other Saturday night - not a club or anything just a bunch of people that come and dodge some cones.

 

[alex302]

Thanks And it was NASA. I've had good experiences with them. As far as auto-x, there's a local "track" that does it every other Saturday night - not a club or anything just a bunch of people that come and dodge some cones.

Very cool need some more info on the Saturday night autox. I autox with the http://www.floridacorvetteracing.com great group of guys. You can message me the info.

 

[mcglsr2]

I don't mind putting it up there - in fact they could probably use the business. The place is Central Florida Racing Complex (http://cfracingcomplex.com/). The schedule is on their site, looks like they call it a Mini Time Attack now. The last couple times I went they would let you go out, do a warm-up lap, then you get like 2 hot laps, then park it and wait for your run group again. Personally, I like this better as you get more time on the course to work on things. It's fairly informal, you pretty much just need a helmet. But it's great for seat time and seeing what else (and who else) is out there.

They used to do it every other Saturday night, usually until about 12:00 to 1:00 in the morning. Looks like the next one is the 19th, but it's during the day, as are the next couple ones. So maybe they are mixing it up. Pays to look at the schedule

 

[mcglsr2]

Okay, so clutch/transmission update. In a previous post I had mentioned that I rebuilt the T-5 and that it still shifted like a tractor. Well...it would seem that I hadn't adjusted my clutch cable properly (it's an adjustable set up from MM). I didn't screw the adjuster out enough - I did that, putting more tension on the cable, and now it shifts pretty smooth. Still not as nice as my STI, but wow what an improvement. I feel like I'm not fighting it nearly as much as I was. So I retract the "shifting like a tractor" part of the statement and will reword it as such: "...I rebuilt the T-5 and it's doing great, shifting pretty naaaice despite me being an idiot."

Also the pasti-dip for the wheels arrives today. I'm really hoping to knock the wheels out this weekend.

 

[mcglsr2]

Very cool need some more info on the Saturday night autox. I autox with the http://www.floridacorvetteracing.com great group of guys. You can message me the info.

So I assume the florida corvette racing events are folks with corvettes only?

 

[mcglsr2]

I haven't really posted any interesting pics or anything lately - waiting on a chance to either go racing or start doing work. So in the meantime, I'll post up a short vid I did a little while back at the mini time attack at Central Florida Racing Complex (I mentioned them in a previous post). This is with my GoPro attached to the front grill (where the pony used to be).

This is an example of their mini time attack - you get a warm up lap, 3 hot laps, then a cool down lap.

[video=youtube;qqk8TBw3zyM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqk8TBw3zyM[/video]

The Mustang, time-wise, was about middle of the pack of all the cars there - it was surprisingly faster than some other cars there (especially for being a low hp). The whole run was done in second I also think that I left a lot on the table - the car had more to give.

 

[MustangChris]

nice dude! fun video!1

 

[mcglsr2]

Well, looks like the car is overheating when I start driving it hard. Either that or my gauge is lying to me. I've got a replacement sensor (just in case the gauge *is* lying) and a balanced 180* thermostat that needs to be installed. Aaand my car is missing the lower radiator air dam thing that forces air up from under the front bumper past the PS cooler and into the radiator. Aaaaaaaand my radiator is the new Mishimoto style (because my older Mishimoto 3-core one was leaking), which is smaller than the old one. I think it's time to give the SVE 3-core rad from LMR a try - and pick up that radiator air dam thingie while I'm there...

 

[RichV]

The airdam is pretty crucial at speed. I have a lower airdam from a 88 Ranger, sits a lot lower than a stocker. Got it from RockAuto for like $8 plus shipping.

How much does it heat up? I would see temps of 220-230 regularly during hot days and long track sessions.

 

[mcglsr2]

The airdam is pretty crucial at speed. I have a lower airdam from a 88 Ranger, sits a lot lower than a stocker. Got it from RockAuto for like $8 plus shipping.

How much does it heat up? I would see temps of 220-230 regularly during hot days and long track sessions.

The car since I bought it has never had it - I'm hoping it helps. When I had my old 3-Core Mishimoto, it got up to around 230 or so on the track, a little high but nothing I was worried about. Around town driving was always around 200 or so. On the street now, with the replacement Mishimoto, I hit 240 yesterday (granted, I had the A/C going so that didn't help) and even with the fan on high and cruising speed on the highway, the temps didn't want to come down. I need to check my water level. I also need to get rid of my Mishimoto. My mechanic thinks the gauge is wrong too - I'm not sure about that, but I ordered a replacement sender just to be safe. Driving normal on the street it stays around 220 or so. This is with the A/C on (turning the A/C off doesn't seem to affect the temps for around town driving). Before, the A/C didn't work so I don't know what it would have done with the older rad.

RichV, I know these cars can have some issue collecting air (and thus pressure, and thus lift) under the noses, making the front a little light at higher speed - I'm wondering if this missing radiator dam thingie affects that at all?

 

[CC'S95GT]

does the hi speed fan come on when the a/c is on? It should.
You might be able to trick the hi speed to be on by pulling the a/c fuse or (short belting and not driving the a/c comp) at all and turning on the a/c in the car.

 

[mcglsr2]

does the hi speed fan come on when the a/c is on? It should.
You might be able to trick the hi speed to be on by pulling the a/c fuse or (short belting and not driving the a/c comp) at all and turning on the a/c in the car.

Yes it does. I also have an override switch installed so I can turn the fan on to HI whenever I want - the fan was already on but I turned the switch on for good measure. Temps stayed at 240 :shrug: I'm thinking maybe the water boiled over or there were air pockets after the coolant was added. I'll take a look this weekend. It normally stays around 210-220 (which I still don't like), and only had the issue of getting up to 240 when I got on it through several gear changes (rather than just a quick accel in a single gear).

 

[mavisky]

Let me know how the larger SVE radiator works. Mine has run a bit on the warm side ever since I put the aluminum heads on it if it's more than 80 outside.