95 GT - Das Llama!

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mcglsr2

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Welcome and keep up the good work!! You need a good set of subframe connectors!!!

Heh, funny you should say that. Back when I was doing my research on the cars and what it would take, just about every place I looked said "SFCs!" when asked about first mods. I didn't end up doing them until almost a year later - I think mostly because everything I had done at that point was "bolt-on" - something I could do myself. Because the SFCs had to be welded, I just didn't make the time for them or for the car to get to a shop to have it done. I had read that the seats had to come out, the carpet had to come out so that it wouldn't catch fire, etc etc. It sounded like a lot, so I just put it off. Oops. It was easy enough for the shop to do, and it made a HUGE difference. I should've done it sooner.
 

RichV

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So how does it, or did it, compare on the track with the above mods? What tracks did you run and how did it do?

Looking forward to your next upgrades, seems to be going the same direction as my 94. The springs could be a little stiffer, but these cars seem to like a little rotation. I don't run any spring isolators and my car is a little lighter (probably), but carry on...
 
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mcglsr2

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I found some notes I had documented back when I was doing this work - I had forgotten some stuff and left some details out. I went back and updated the original posts with the additional info.
 
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mcglsr2

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November 2011


I had signed up for an HPDE event with NASA down at Homestead-Miami Speedway at the end of Jan 2012. I was trying to get the car to a point where I could drive it in anger on the track and have it not kill me. If I learned something about driving too, that would be a bonus. But the focus was on the not killing me part. Keep in mind that it was still early days with me and this car, granted a had turned a few wrenches on it, but I hadn't been driving it all that long, and was concerned there might have been a couple gremlins hiding somewhere. I never really touched the engine, apart from the normal maintenance stuff. I had visions of pistons flying through my hood, a cloud of metal debris left in my wake that used to be my engine... I shrugged it off, the track will tell. In addition to not being sure about the car, I was also going to have to drive it down there, a little over 4 hours one way from Orlando. So road trip, road race for 2 days, then road trip home. I made sure my AAA membership was up to date...


Before then, though, there were still things I needed to do (and things I wanted to do). The big motivator was a set a gears I purchased - time to get them into the car. I opted for 3.55's as a nice balance for road racing - not too high and not too low. I wasn't sure what I was going to do to the engine later, but figured 3.55 would serve me well until then. I dropped the car off to get the gears installed.

If only it were that simple. They call back and tell me "oh by the way, your rear diff is shot. And your axles will most likely fall off." I added that last bit, but it's close enough. Apparently the Trac-Lok was shot. Previous owners, or previous previous owners were doing 1 wheel burnouts or something, or could only do 1 wheel burnouts because the diff was essentially open. Also it would seem the U-joints were in rough shape. Alright, time to re-assess. After some thinking and research, I opted to replace a few things. My gear install turned into: 3.55 gears, Torsen T-2 diff, Moser 31 spline axles with new seals and long wheel studs, and an aluminum driveshaft with new U-Joints. These were all things I was planning on doing at some point, just didn't expect that point to have been then. But so be it. Suffice it to say the car felt a bit different when I got it back from the shop - in a good way :)
 
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mcglsr2

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With January fast approaching, I decided to have the car put on the dyno. Here's the results:

2011-12_dyno.jpg


You'll notice my scribbling on the side, this was with 87 octane and timing set to 10 degrees (stock). It ended up with 185 whp at around 4300 rpm and 243 wtq (or torques, as the Clarkson is wont to say) at around 3200 through 3800 rpm. Not too shabby!

That actually made me quite happy, the car came stock with 215 hp at the flywheel. Assuming a typical 13% loss through the trans on a 5 speed puts the car at around 212 hp at the flywheel, pretty damn close to stock. Keep in mind this is on a motor that is completely unknown to me, with an odometer that stopped at 101K miles like 7 years ago - so who knows how many miles on the engine (and also confirms my suspicion that the engine is neither overbored nor cammed as the previous said it might be - which is fine, I didn't buy the car because of what the motor may or may not have). This means there's a good chance the motor is still quite healty, so I was pretty stoked. Heck yes 185! Oh Jesus, I hope no one tries to race me at a stop light <sinks lower in drivers seat>... It's pretty funny actually, since this car is quite loud. It's got full exhaust (but no cats, has an off road pipe), but I swear it sounds like open dumps. So obnoxious. So when that Mazdaspeed3 wants to have a go on the highway, I just smile at it with my loud and exhaust and 185 hp... :sad5:
 
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mcglsr2

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December 2011

The last thing that I did before the HPDE even in January was get a new set of wheels. I did a lot of looking around, focusing on 17s. I wanted to run the same width wheel front and back so I could rotate my tires if necessary, and I read a lot of conflicting things about what would fit up front width-wise. So I played it safe and went with 9" wheels. Weight was an important factor too, I wanted to try to keep it down. A lot of the more affordable wheels also tend to be the more heavier wheels. I wasn't about to drop a couple grand on some lightweight wheels that would get thrashed at the track. Enter in the Enkei RPF1s. These are just great wheels. I have a friend who had them on his RX7 LS swap, and when I found out Tirerack carried these wheels in an offset that worked for the Mustang, AND for pretty cheap...done.

When they arrived, I did some quick test fitting - everything I read and the people I talked with said they would clear the Cobra brakes and not rub:

DSCF0942.jpg


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Once I was convinced they were going to fit - time to paint!!! My goal regarding color scheme for the car (which we named the Bent Llama, or just Llama for short) was a charcoal gray color with matte black and neon orange accents. The wheels would have contrasted the body color nicely. They are a little loud with the orange color, but it could work dammit! Except that painting them neon orange was a horrible idea. One word: fade. Brake dust was obvious on them, they got dirty super fast, and the sun just literally destroyed them. They look like complete ass now, wait until I post a current picture. But they looked awesome when fresh. In hind sight, I should have bought the black RPF1s and just went with them. There's nothing at all wrong with my orange ones, other than the color is fading.

Fresh pics:

DSCF0944.jpg


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DSCF0949.jpg


I also painted the red front calipers black, because red behind neon orange would have just been hideous. Anyway, they look like crap now, although the wheel is perfectly fine. Lesson learned. I'm sure if I had painted them another color, something not neon (or a better quality neon paint) the looks would have lasted longer. Maybe plasti-dipped them or something. I was going to repaint them but some stuff I saw at ReplicaR's thread has me thinking something else...

The tires I went for were Nitto NT05's in 255. They are a great, great tire for combined street/track use. They are officially a street tire (as opposed to a R-compound) and handle the wet better than an R-compound would. More on these on track day. Today, I still have them on the car - a couple track weekends, auto-x's and 2 years of street driving later. It's about time to replace them, I'm not sure yet if I will go for an R-compound or these again. I really do like these tires.

When I had the tires mounted, I had a TPMS installed. At the track, I wanted to know what the tire pressures where as well as the temperatures (and since I got rid of the spare, I wanted to know if I had a leak as soon as possible). I got the Orange TPMS system (check it out at Amazon) - very affordable and works great. I've had it for 2 years now with no issues. The batteries in the wheel sensors are supposed to last 5 to 7 years before they die - we'll see about that. But so far so good.

And I forgot to mention, back in November when I was doing the suspension, I also installed a set of MM caster/camber plates.
 

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Oh my.. Now THAT'S what I call visual impact! I am going to look into the TPMS, sounds like good added insurance!
 
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mcglsr2

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Oh my.. Now THAT'S what I call visual impact! I am going to look into the TPMS, sounds like good added insurance!

Yah, too much :( The TPMS is really pretty awesome. It measures all 4 tires individually, so I know what the pressure and temperature is on each tire. I'm not sure how accurate it is, but at the track the numbers it showed made sense, so I bet it's pretty close. It's also got alarms such that if 1 (or any) of the tires falls below a set pressure it will start beeping at you. It might have high value alarms as well, but I don't recall. It's like $130 at Amazon, well worth it IMO. When you rotate tires, you can either tell the monitor where the new tire locations are so it displays correctly, or it can learn through you lowering the pressure and seeing which tire position is affected. Back when I did all the research for a retro-fit TPMS, this was the most affordable with best options that I found. And bonus is that it can be hard-wired into the car (which is what I did) - you don't have to use the cigarette lighter if you don't want to.
 
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mcglsr2

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That hurt my eyes haha but definitely a cool change of pace!

Yah they made my brain bleed when they were fresh. They are VERY toned down now - once they got some dirt and brake dust on them the brightness went way pretty quick. Now they are mostly an orange/yellow color, with the worst ones almost white (the base coat was white) due to the fading from the sun.
 

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I like the TPMS idea. Pretty solid for the tire pressures, but not entirely certain how well would it work for temps, as you are supposed to measure tire temperature in 3 spots (inside, center, outside), which you would not get with that sensor. I've got a pyrometer that I use from time to time to see what the tires and suspension are doing. I'd invest into one of those if I were you, super handy, and you can adjust alignment on the spot based on what you read.
 
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mcglsr2

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Yah I don't really use the temperature for figuring out alignment, etc. More like just FYI. A pyrometer is an excellent suggestion - do you jump out of your car and measure the temps after a run or have someone read it for you? I wish I had access to a skid pad, I might have to set one up in a parking lot one night. I also use shoe polish on the fronts to see if they are rolling over in the corners.
 

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It's handy to have someone do it for you. And you have to do it fast too, tires cool down very quickly. You literally have to fly into the hot pits, and have someone check the tires while you wait, no cool down.
 
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mcglsr2

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That's what I figured. I'll add a pyrometer to my box of track day items, thanks for the suggestion :).

I watched this old-school video on autocrossing, they did something similar but on a skid pad. Basically went around it it one direction right at the edge of sliding, stopped and then measured temps across the tire. They made adjustments based on the reading, then went around the pad again. Repeated until they had it reading like they wanted, then went around the pad in the other direction, repeating the same process. I've been itching to give this a try.
 

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Thats a good start, car looks good and looks like you put some good work and parts in the vehicle. Why did you stay with quad shocks in the back?
 
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mcglsr2

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Thats a good start, car looks good and looks like you put some good work and parts in the vehicle. Why did you stay with quad shocks in the back?

Thanks! And I didn't, I ended up dumping the quads a little bit later. At the time I was doing this stuff, it was all completely new to me. I never had a Mustang before (or did that extensive of a job on brakes), so I didn't feel comfortable at the time leaving them off. After a bit with more reading, research and talking with the folks at MM, I took them off. They were also rubbing on my shocks on the back, so even more reason to drop them. It's been over 1.5 years now and with autocrosses and HPDE events without the quads, there have been no issues. I'm sure the MM extreme duty LCAs are the only reason.
 
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January 2012

The weekend had come. The girlfriend and I loaded the Mustang up with are stuff, and drove to Homestead-Miami Speedway. This would be my second HPDE weekend, and first time of driving the Mustang in anger. On the drive down, I ended up getting pulled over by a cop. The speedo was way off, due to the tires and other stuffs that I'll get to later. I had to gauge my speed by the rpms and gear the car was in. I guess I didn't do a very good job. The cop was pretty nice about it, gave me a "get it fixed" ticket and we were on our way. I'm glad to say we arrived in one piece and that the car had no issues.

Saturday morning we arrived to the paddock, grabbed a spot, and went through tech and initial briefings and stuff. I forgot to mention it, but back in October I installed a battery hold down. It's a Braille one. I took the battery tray out, drilled two holes to accept the J-hooks, re-installed the tray, shaved the bracket a bit to clear the hood and hood lining, trimmed the J-hooks to also clear the hood, and secured the bracket down with the wingnuts. The bracket was like $12 or something like that, and worked fantastic. I passed tech with no issues.

My goals for the day were to just get comfortable with the car and see how it would behave. My instructor was pretty cool and the car did well. It was particularly painful in the straights due to the lack of power, but that let me focus on getting my braking down and working the corners. I think it was the 4th run where I had my first issue. We were on the back straight between turns 9 and 10, when we started to smell coolant. I took a quick look at the water temp gauge - it was pegged. Oh hell. We pitted and I checked out the issue. Turns out, the alternator pulley was contacting the upper radiator hose - to the point where a hole was created. Good bye water. That pretty much ended the day for me, which wasn't too bad as it was the last session for the day. We packed up the car, filled the rad back up with water, mapped the nearest auto parts store and headed for it. I had to keep an eye on the temp gauge as the car would of course start to overheat. We took it slow and eventually made it. Luckily they had a replacement hose (I got two, just in case). However, the hose was a little different than the one with the hole - I think it was actually a 93 Mustang upper hose rather than the 94/95. This turned out to be a good thing though as it was a little higher and more out of the way of the alternator. It contacted the hood when it closed, but not bad enough to rub or cause any issue. I replaced it there in the parking lot, filled the car back up with water, went and got dinner then called it a night.

The next day was pretty uneventful from an issue-standpoint. Overall it was a blast. The car did great, much better than I probably should have expected given that I had no idea what the engine had been through before. Granted the brakes, suspension, driveshaft and rear end were all new (and thus shouldn't have had issues), the engine could easily have killed the entire weekend. But it didn't.

What almost did kill the weekend was that I developed a slow leak in the front left tire. I had the tire checked out by the tire guy at the track, the air was leaking from the valve stem. The tire itself was fine. I didn't know at the time, but what had happened is that when my tire place installed the new tires on the wheels, they didn't quite seal the valve stem right (later they said there was a little dirt in there that prevented it from sealing properly). I'm not sure why it didn't show up until at the track, but whatever. I had a portable compressor with me and used that to air the tire when it got to low between sessions. The leak (at that point) wasn't bad enough to cause issue during the runs. I'm super glad that I had that TPMS system installed - it's the guy that told me I had the issue in the first place. I check my tires before each session, so I would have found it anyway, but it's nice to have known about it before the session.

The drive home was a different story. I had to stop every 30 min or so to air up the tire. I didn't have a spare with me, and the green goo stuff (that is TPMS safe) probably wouldn't have worked on the valve stem. Talk about a long ride home. Drive for about 30 to 40 min, pull over, get out the compressor, air up the tire, drive for about 30 to 40 min, pull over, etc. We eventually made it but boy was I glad to be home. I took the tire to my tire place, they told me what the issue was, and fixed it free of charge. Hasn't been a problem since.

There were 2 other issues that didn't get solved, and are still on-going today. I'm curious to see if you guys have any ideas on them. The 1st is a moaning sound from the rear end. I posted up about it back then at another forum, and a member there (Serlin) I think nailed it exactly. Here's what would happen, turning right as any speed with a decent amount of G's would cause a sort of groaning sound from the rear end. I though maybe the Torsen was binding at first, but it only happens when turning to the right, NOT turning to left. I had checked and re-checked the moan braces on the rear, they were goodentight. What Serlin said, as it happened to him as well, was that it was mostly likely the caliper bracket rubbing on the rotor. He said to clearance the bracket a little (which he did), and it would go away (which it did for him). Well, I did that, and I still have the issue. I'm guessing I just didn't do it enough, I might have to use some washers to center the caliper on the rotor. I'll play with that when I replace my pads and rotors soon. Just wondering if this sounds familiar to any of you guys?

The second issue was a gas smell. I was on the back straight (again), right after turn 9, which is a pretty fast sweeper to the left, and I'd get a STRONG gas smell up in the cabin. Oh noes!!! I pitted immediately, and popped the hood, expecting to see gas squirting everywhere, and I saw....nothing. It was bone dry. No gas was leaking in the engine compartment. Didn't even really smell like gas. Hmm.:confused1: I went around to the trunk, popped it, and was assaulted with gas smell. Particularly over by the filler neck. I should mention, my trunk was completely empty, including the trim panels on the side. I could clearly see the filler neck. It didn't look wet, but when I leaned towards it and smelled...very much like gas. I should also mention that the tank was half full at this point (and did NOT happen when it was completely full, strange...). I later heard from one of the corner works that fluid was coming out of the back of the car sometimes - my guess: gas. As long as I kept the tank full, this did not happen. So I basically refueled every 2 sessions. I did some reading and posting, the consensus was that the gasket where the filler neck goes into the tank was shot and leaking. Okay (but why only at half a tank, and only on fast left-hand sweepers?). I had a shop replace this gasket (and drop in a BBK 255 in tank fuel pump while they were there). At my next HPDE at Sebring, the issue was still there. Maybe not quite as bad (but different track), and I also kept the tank full-ish, but I don't think it was fixed. Is it possible they screwed up the install? As far as I know, it doesn't leak on the street, and I don't really smell any gas. Any ideas?

I've got pictures from the event that I'll post up after I dig them up.
 
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mcglsr2

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Sorry for the wall of text, I guess I could have broken it down into multiple posts. I try to include pictures to help offset the wordiness, I'll post some up some better ones soon :)

Here's pics my girlfriend took:

HMS_1.jpg


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Any my good luck dinosaur that has been in the car for every track/auto-x event:

IMG_8345.jpg
 

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For gas smell, check the o-rings around the tank level sensor and fuel pump. If those are cracked, or damaged in any way, it would cause gas smell.
 

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On the brake bracket, does it show any signs of touching the rotor? Maybe dab some paint on it to verify. Then take it further. Sounds like maybe some play in the axle, could be a c-clip or even a bent axle. You can check for a problem with some toe plates, take a measurement on the rear, then roll the car a few inches and measure again. Measurement should be the same, or very close. Do you have negative camber in the rear?

The gas smell is a common thing. I replaced the gasket in my 94 which stopped the leak out the back, seems worse with under 1/2 tank in right handers. I almost got meatballed a few times for it. Anyway, after the gasket was replaced I still would have some fuel spilling issues on occasion. I figured out that the gas cap needed to be turned back about 50% so the excess would vent. If I forget to turn the cap back after I fuel up, it will actually force fuel through the gas cap vent and it will drip inside the cabin.
 

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