95 GT - Das Llama!

[mcglsr2]

Alright, so I created a spreadsheet of all the things that need to be done to the Mustang. I originally had the table listed her, but I had updates, so I moved the table to the current last post and documented the updates. As I make new updates, I'll continue to move the table to the current last post and update the previous post with the items that were finished at that point.

 

[mcglsr2]

Huhokay, so on to TT, classes and points. After I get done with HPDE, I will move to TT and give that a shot for awhile. After that, I'll probably be looking at W2W. Right now, though, I want to focus on TT and see what I can do against similarly prepared cars.

A quick background on NASA TT and points in case you are unfamiliar: There are 5 "normal" classes and then 4 "super" classes ("normal" and "super" are my words, not how NASA describes it). The classes are, from slower to faster: TTF, TTE, TTD, TTC and TTB, TT3, TT2, TT1 and TTU. For reference, my Mustang (95 V8 with less than 226 hp) has a base class of TTE, my 11 STI has a base class of TTB.

The base class is where your car starts assuming you have made no modifications. So if I had a bone stock 95 GT, I would race in the TTE. This keeps like cars in the same category and emphasizes driver skill more, not driver money.

As you make modifications and improve the performance, you get points for certain things. Every 20 points you accrue, your car moves up a class. So if I have 25 points in mods to my Mustang, I am no longer in TTE, I am now in TTD.

So the goal is to either pick a class and mod for it, or if you have existing mods then add up the points you have and see where you end up. Then either max out points for that class or remove things to drop down a class.

As I said, my Mustang starts off in TTE. If I keep the car as is now, here's the points I currently have:

• The Mustang in TTE gets an automatic 7 points
• Non R-compound DOT tires, 2 points
• 255mm width tires, 4 points
• Modified airbox, 1 point
• Modified exhaust piping, 2 points
• Removal of cats, 1 point
• Changed LSD, 1 point
• Modified shocks/struts/dampers, 3 points
• Modified coil springs, 2 points
• Modified control arms, 4 points
• Add panhard bar, 4 points
• Modified brake calipers/rotor diameter, 2 points
• Add front lower brace, 1 point
• Add SFCs, 3 points

Total: 37 points, so ONE class move up, which puts the Mustang in TTD, with 2 points to spare (it's 0 based, so one class ends on a 9, the next class starts on the next '0').

There's a little more to to, but the adjusted power to weight ratio for TTD is 14.25:1. This means that the power/weight ratio cannot be any better than 14.25:1 for TTD. The Mustang is currently 18.59:1...ouch. What that basically means is that my points are from chassis, brake and suspension mods, not engine mods. If I decide to stay in this class, I'll be interested in seeing if the under-powered Mustang could hang with the other cars - or rather if I can hang with the other cars.

 

[MustangChris]

wow! nice list!!! i remember "the list" days... lol.

 

[RichV]

All I can add to your list, is consider if/when you go W2W racing. Do you have a class picked out? Make sure you modify stuff that you can change, or ideally will not need to change so you don't end up spending twice.

And another thing to add, stock HP in these heavy pigs kill the potential. When you get out accelerated by a n/a Miata down the straight it will make you tear up a little. I would highly recommend you bump up the HP, at least by 50. A GT40 top end should get you there rather easily and it will have a lot more top end pull.

 

[mcglsr2]

All I can add to your list, is consider if/when you go W2W racing. Do you have a class picked out? Make sure you modify stuff that you can change, or ideally will not need to change so you don't end up spending twice.

And another thing to add, stock HP in these heavy pigs kill the potential. When you get out accelerated by a n/a Miata down the straight it will make you tear up a little. I would highly recommend you bump up the HP, at least by 50. A GT40 top end should get you there rather easily and it will have a lot more top end pull.

No, no class for W2W picked out yet. I was considering CMC way back but I thought they canceled that series? Maybe it's still around, I'm not sure. I'll have to look into it. Good advice.

I was afraid of something like that w/ regard to the HP. The feels pretty strong when I'm driving it, until I get into my STI, and then I'm like hmm... Are you talking about the GT40 heads/intake? 50 HP will certainly help, but it'll also bump me up to TTC - which is fine. It'll give me more points to play with, and if the power/weight ratio is more favorable for me then this might be worth it.

 

[mcglsr2]

Oh, one other question: I'm not convinced that a CAI really does anything, especially so on a stock motor. If I go the GT40 route (and I'm sure there's a TON of threads, articles, etc on this, I need to do my research), is the stock air box still sufficient?

 

[mcglsr2]

I've also got BBK LTs sitting in the garage. So maybe a GT40 swap and the LTs...

 

[mcglsr2]

Alright, based on RichV's recommendation for MOAR POWAH, I am seriously considering a GT40 swap now. That will bring the power/weight ratio closer to something useful. However, since the points from the engine changes will put me in TTC territory, the adjusted power/weight ratio is now up to 12.00:1 - which means my Mustang in current trim (weight) will need about 280 WHP. I don't know if that's attainable yet with my mild build (basically exhaust, would be LTs at that point, and a CAI). That's also close to maxing out the stock injectors. We'll see.

Moving up a class let's me play with more points - I can move up to 275mm wide tires, and run still have a little room to run R-comps if I want. More thinking and research is required.

 

[bonestock3.8DTH]

The CMC class is still around, Thats the class that RichV races in. I've seen a couple guys make close to 300whp with a GT40 swap, and LMRS put a GT40 top end with aluminum heads on their Convertible Cobra Foxbody project and it made 270 at the ground I think, so I'd say 280whp would be attainable. With all of that I'd say your car would definitely be a fast, fun car to drive!

 

[mcglsr2]

I'm liking the GT40 swap idea even more. Though I'll probably stick with the iron GT40/GT40P - the GT40x would be nice but I think it's out of my price range. I'd like to drop some weight up front but that will have to wait.

I already really enjoy driving the car...~60 more HP would certainly be fun!!

 

[RichV]

CMC is around and going strong! Participation varies by region, yours just may not be very strong. But I know a few guys on the CMC forum from FL building cars.

Anyways, our HP limit is 260 at the wheels. A solid 5.0 with a GT40 top end, E303 cam, and exhaust can make that easily. My setup is GT40p heads, Cobra intake, E303 cam, 1.7RR, u/d pulleys, and shortys/x-pipe. It made 272HP so I had to de-tune (timing) a little for legality. We cannot tune, so that was with a stock 94 GT computer and 19# injectors. The CAI is actually a good thing, but a stock airbox is sufficient.

You definitely want to run r-comp tires. I'd rather have r-comp 255s than street 275, or even 315. The tire is what grips, accelerates, stops, and turns. So the stickier the better. But then you run into taking a set of wheels/tires to the track, or just trailer the thing.

 

[mcglsr2]

CMC is around and going strong! Participation varies by region, yours just may not be very strong. But I know a few guys on the CMC forum from FL building cars.

Anyways, our HP limit is 260 at the wheels. A solid 5.0 with a GT40 top end, E303 cam, and exhaust can make that easily. My setup is GT40p heads, Cobra intake, E303 cam, 1.7RR, u/d pulleys, and shortys/x-pipe. It made 272HP so I had to de-tune (timing) a little for legality. We cannot tune, so that was with a stock 94 GT computer and 19# injectors. The CAI is actually a good thing, but a stock airbox is sufficient.

You definitely want to run r-comp tires. I'd rather have r-comp 255s than street 275, or even 315. The tire is what grips, accelerates, stops, and turns. So the stickier the better. But then you run into taking a set of wheels/tires to the track, or just trailer the thing.

I'll keep all that in mind. For some reason I thought CMC was going away? Maybe that was CMC2? Or, I'm just making all of it up. Which is possible. On the tires, I'd rather run the R-comps, but keep in mind that I currently drive to the track and drive home. If I find a set of R-comps that was up and die from highway driving, I'd consider it. I'm not ready yet to swap wheels either. So I'll lose a little due to the tire, that's okay. Once I get better and I'm looking for everything the car has to give, I'll have to re-assess my tire set up.

 

[mcglsr2]

The car is heading back to the mechanics this weekend to get the A/C compressor replaced. Looking forward to ice cold air (rather than semi-cold air that turns into warm air after a bit). The power steering pump seal is being replaced as well. Nothing too exciting this week. I've also been accruing parts for the tasks listed a previous post. I've already got the coilovers, upper radiator hose, parts for the Idiot Light Cluster v3.0, panhard bar, roll bar, longtubes, battery relocation box, etc etc. All I need now is the time and the space.

Question: I'm looking at he Scott Rod fabrications aluminum panels for the rear seat delete and door panels. Does anyone have any experience with these products? I need to search - I might just create a separate thread and ask if my search here doesn't turn anything up.

 

[bonestock3.8DTH]

Oh! And if you look into doing the GT40 top end swap, the 5.0 Ford explorers came with a GT40 intake manifold and GT40P heads, the intake is usually just referred to as a explorer intake but it flows the same as a GT40 one. The GT40P heads are slightly different from the GT40 heads, they flow the same but if you get a set of GT40P heads you will have to get different headers to bolt up to them because the headers that fit the e7 and GT40 heads will not work with the GT40P Heads. Just a little food for thought! And you can usually pick up a set GT40P heads for fairly cheap along with an explorer intake.

 

[CC'S95GT]

Oh! And if you look into doing the GT40 top end swap, the 5.0 Ford explorers came with a GT40 intake manifold and GT40P heads, the intake is usually just referred to as a explorer intake but it flows the same as a GT40 one. The GT40P heads are slightly different from the GT40 heads, they flow the same but if you get a set of GT40P heads you will have to get different headers to bolt up to them because the headers that fit the e7 and GT40 heads will not work with the GT40P Heads. Just a little food for thought! And you can usually pick up a set GT40P heads for fairly cheap along with an explorer intake.

Actually the e-7 headers will bolt up to the P heads. the main problem is 1 of the 8 plugs is very close to the header itself. that be fixed with a 90* boot or insulation tape.
Also Gt-40 and Gt40P heads came both came on the exploders. GT-40 (3 bar) were on them up to 99 i think and GT40P (4 bar) from 2000- 04.

 

[bonestock3.8DTH]

Actually the e-7 headers will bolt up to the P heads. the main problem is 1 of the 8 plugs is very close to the header itself. that be fixed with a 90* boot or insulation tape.
Also Gt-40 and Gt40P heads came both came on the exploders. GT-40 (3 bar) were on them up to 99 i think and GT40P (4 bar) from 2000- 04.

Ohhh, well the more you know! Thanks for the information! Sorry for posting incorrect information, thats just what I have read.

 

[CC'S95GT]

no prob.
I hope I didn't sound like a douche. Rich is rinning P heads and e-7 type headers.

 

[mcglsr2]

Thanks for the info, Bonestock and CC. I did quite a bit of reading/research last night on the GT40/GT40p heads and intake. A junk yard near me has a couple Explorers in that are in the correct year range for GT40ps but I don't know yet if they are 5.0's. I'll have to make a trip.

From my reading it looks like the two heads are basically the same performance-wise. The GT40p's flow about the same as the GT40's, except they use a smaller exhaust port to get it done due to increased efficiency. Also, the springs would have to replaced (though I'd probably do that regardless of GT40 or GT40p). I will most likely use the BBK longtubes I have, my reading indicated that they will most likely work fine. Clearance between the plugs and headers will get interesting, some places said use 90* on all plugs, others said use 45* on most, only a couple require the 90*, one other place said to just use 45* for all of them. I may have to dent the header a little. I'll have to play around with that. I already have heat shield thingies for the plugs that I picked up the same time I bought the longtubes.

One thing I read that concerned me the most was that this one guy had to make a special plug socket tool to remove the plugs, I guess because he couldn't get in there with a normal plug socket? Another thing I read said you had to basically remove the header from one side (I think passenger's?) to remove the plugs. Both of those things sound crappy, not sure how true it is though...

I already have a Cobra intake sitting in the garage, though I think it might be one of the later Ford Racing China made ones. I don't remember, and I haven't dug it up lately to confirm. If I'm lucky enough to find a 5.0 Explorer in the yard with top end intact, I'll probably just pick up the intake as well just in case.

 

[mcglsr2]

On an unrelated - though maybe interesting, but probably not really - side note: I wonder if my Mustang was originally a GTS ("Oh hell, here we go with a GT/GTS thread"). Honestly, I don't care. I'm obviously not leaving the car stock, and I personally don't think a GTS has any additional value over a GT. Just a tidbit from the car's past. The reason I think it may be a GTS is because of the cloth seats, and the only options being power door/window/trunk release and ABS. No defroster, no keyless entry, I don't remember if my visors are lighted or not, no fogs, and the spoiler is not a stock spoiler, steering wheel was not leather, etc. It had an aftermarket radio in it when I got it, but does not have the Mach sound system (so could have been a cassette). It also had aftermarket Bullitt wheels, so maybe had the GTS wheels originally.

Of course, the car could have been a GT, and cloth seats sourced from the same color V6 model were added in because the leather ones were trash. The stock spoiler might have been removed and the Steeda one put on. The fogs could have been there but were removed because of damage/whatever. The GT could have been optioned the way it sits now.

Like I said, in the end, I don't care. I just found it interesting that it could be possible. I guess we'll never know for sure.

 

[mcglsr2]

Alright, I ordered the Scottrod Fabrications aluminum door panels in black. I also ordered some red door pulls. I'm still thinking about the paint scheme, however I think the interior will be black, gray and red accents. I hope it looks alright, I'm not about to change out the dash to get rid of the gray.

I'll have to make some changes to the door panels, I'll need to cut out holes for the speakers and fab up a switch box or something to house the switches - I don't think there's enough room behind the panel to flush mount the switches. I'm also going to put up a new moisture vapor barrier.