I wanted to make an adapter plate that bolts to the heads in place of the intake and has the 3 hook positions, like the old carburetor lifting plates.
97 Cobra Blown Head Gasket Help/Tips
- Thread starter YUNG VEEZU
- Start date
I wanted to make an adapter plate that bolts to the heads in place of the intake and has the 3 hook positions, like the old carburetor lifting plates.
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YUNG VEEZU
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Just to update, its been raining for the past week and I don't have a garage. I made a checklist of what I have to do next:
-remove midpipe
-remove/loosen transmission crossmember bolts
-remove AC compressor (i just moved 2 of those long bolts)
-remove power steering (removed 2 of the bolt, the last one is really in there)
-disconnect remaining electrical connectors I missed
-remove motor mounts
-remove hood
-remove engine/trans
Couple of questions, should i place the trans jack under the transmission, then lift it up to relieve pressure off of the trans crossmember in order to disconnect?
Also, should I do the same for the motor mounts? Use a block of wood under the oil pan, use a jack to lift it up a bit to relieve pressure off the nuts? I took a brief look at the motor mount nuts and it looks like a tight space
-remove midpipe
-remove/loosen transmission crossmember bolts
-remove AC compressor (i just moved 2 of those long bolts)
-remove power steering (removed 2 of the bolt, the last one is really in there)
-disconnect remaining electrical connectors I missed
-remove motor mounts
-remove hood
-remove engine/trans
Couple of questions, should i place the trans jack under the transmission, then lift it up to relieve pressure off of the trans crossmember in order to disconnect?
Also, should I do the same for the motor mounts? Use a block of wood under the oil pan, use a jack to lift it up a bit to relieve pressure off the nuts? I took a brief look at the motor mount nuts and it looks like a tight space
DKblue98GT
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I think it's easiest to pull the K member and drop the motor out the bottom of the car. I just did it on my GT and didn't even have to remove the hood.
I used a piece of chain attached to the outer most front cover bolts to connect the hoist and a floor jack under the trans. I lowered it onto a roller l got from Harbor freight and rolled it out from under the car.
I used a piece of chain attached to the outer most front cover bolts to connect the hoist and a floor jack under the trans. I lowered it onto a roller l got from Harbor freight and rolled it out from under the car.
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YUNG VEEZU
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what kind of jack did you use? I'm using an 2 ton AC Delco jack from the local auto parts store
DKblue98GT
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I have harbor freight jack that raises uo to 22 inches.
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YUNG VEEZU
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I spent a few hours and got more work done today. I took the midpipe off. You can see where I had a buddy take two of my cats out until my next smog check.
I took a more few hours messing around with the transmission crossmember, and due to my carelessness and being impatient I accidentally stripped the bolt. So I ended up taking the small two 10mm bolts out and letting the crossmember hang.
Motor Mount nuts off:
I've been trying to take this last small 10mm bolt out of the power steering, does anyone have any pointers? I know its hard to see:
Now I've searched through many pictures and wanted to confirm:
this is the Alternator bolt I'm planning on using, but which hole should I hook up the chain too?
Here?
or Here?
Also, I remembered you guys said to hook the chain to the back part of to the top of the bellhousing. Do you have any pictures? It's a pretty tight space
I found these pictures, but can't really see the back end of where they mounted chain. I also have a load leveler
We're almost there!
I took a more few hours messing around with the transmission crossmember, and due to my carelessness and being impatient I accidentally stripped the bolt. So I ended up taking the small two 10mm bolts out and letting the crossmember hang.
Motor Mount nuts off:
I've been trying to take this last small 10mm bolt out of the power steering, does anyone have any pointers? I know its hard to see:
Now I've searched through many pictures and wanted to confirm:
this is the Alternator bolt I'm planning on using, but which hole should I hook up the chain too?
Here?
or Here?
Also, I remembered you guys said to hook the chain to the back part of to the top of the bellhousing. Do you have any pictures? It's a pretty tight space
I found these pictures, but can't really see the back end of where they mounted chain. I also have a load leveler
We're almost there!
I use the bolt hole in the block where the alternator bolts up. If you grap it at the timing cover like that, it could break off. Thats just some cast aluminum and I wouldnt trust it. If you follow the valley of the engine right down the center, at the back you will see the top two transmission bolts, you may have to wrench it out but I pull one of those and bolt it back there. Sorry, I dont have any pictures. Make sure that wherever you bolt the chain that you are able to tighten the bolt against the chain completely. If you leave a gap and allow the chain to move it puts more side load on the bolt and may bend or break it.
For that last power steering bolt......break it loose with a good wrench and then the best bet is to use a 10mm ratchet wrench to get it the rest of the way out. That bolt stays in the pump, that line doesnt allow it to come all the way out.
For that last power steering bolt......break it loose with a good wrench and then the best bet is to use a 10mm ratchet wrench to get it the rest of the way out. That bolt stays in the pump, that line doesnt allow it to come all the way out.
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YUNG VEEZU
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So I have everything hooked up, but when I pump the hoist to go up, the hoist moves towards the car. What am I doing wrong?
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YUNG VEEZU
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Used a pry bar against the 10mm ratcheting wrench to free up the last power steering bolt:
Got the hood off:
Now I had a stupid problem. When trying to lift up the motor, instead of the motor moving the hoist would pull towards the car. It got so close that I had to take the bumper off, and it was still moving.
I double checked and made sure that nothing was holding the motor and trans down, in case I missed anything. I used a small block of wood and lifted the motor and trans up fine.
Check the pictures:
I called Harbor Freight and their customer service said my hoist is too short, and I should've gotten the 2 ton hoist instead of the 1 ton. :deeplist: My mistake.
I'm going to try and exchange the hoists.
Got the hood off:
Now I had a stupid problem. When trying to lift up the motor, instead of the motor moving the hoist would pull towards the car. It got so close that I had to take the bumper off, and it was still moving.
I double checked and made sure that nothing was holding the motor and trans down, in case I missed anything. I used a small block of wood and lifted the motor and trans up fine.
Check the pictures:
I called Harbor Freight and their customer service said my hoist is too short, and I should've gotten the 2 ton hoist instead of the 1 ton. :deeplist: My mistake.
I'm going to try and exchange the hoists.
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YUNG VEEZU
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Im going to try and use the hoist again today, there is a slight incline in my driveway. Hopefully I can put a block of wood under the hoist wheels, so it will prevent the hoist from moving forward
The angle that you are pulling isnt going to work very well. The lift hook really needs to be centered on the engine. Honestly, I would run that boom arm out to the 1/4 ton and give it a shot. Youre probably right around the max "advertised" capacity but it should work.
MorbidSvtCobra
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Dam,sux about the jack. Hope you get some progress done ecentually. Im dropping my cobra off monday at my speed shop,new timing chains,5 angle valve job,new clutch, full exhaust with longtubes and offroad x,and new water pump. Finally not gonna hear that dam throwout bearing and exhaust leak anymore expecially at drive thru's,lol. I kinda wish i didnt have to spend all this money cause i could have just bought a mach 1 or maybe a 99 or 01 cobra but im still loving this car cause i always wanted a cobra and i love sn95's.
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YUNG VEEZU
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Great news, finally got it out! Yesterday we drove to the closest Harbor Freight store which was a half hour away, and exchanged the 1 ton hoist for the 2 ton. I just paid the difference since I was within the 90 day window.
I work very slow, so this took a while, but I had to disconnect the tube in the front that linked to the headers, as well as remove a few more electrical stuff connected to the block.
I used the load level at first, but for some reason I had the hoist at its maximum height, and the trans wasn't going to clear the front end. I thought about it later, it was like that because I still had the car on jack stands, about 20 or so inches off the ground. Rookie move
I used zipties to move the AC compressor and Power Steering out of the way for now
Dirty engine bay:
Finally out:
After a ton of PB blaster and a breaker bar, I was able to loosen the bellhousing bolts. Those things were really in there
The starter was completely covered in oil and other gunk. Believe it or not, this was the starter after temporarily cleaning it:
I didn't get a chance to separate the trans from the motor. Going to continue this weekend. We're halfway there!!
I wanna thank you guys again for helping me out. Without your tips and guidance I'd probably spending a ton of $. Now the fun begins
I work very slow, so this took a while, but I had to disconnect the tube in the front that linked to the headers, as well as remove a few more electrical stuff connected to the block.
I used the load level at first, but for some reason I had the hoist at its maximum height, and the trans wasn't going to clear the front end. I thought about it later, it was like that because I still had the car on jack stands, about 20 or so inches off the ground. Rookie move
I used zipties to move the AC compressor and Power Steering out of the way for now
Dirty engine bay:
Finally out:
After a ton of PB blaster and a breaker bar, I was able to loosen the bellhousing bolts. Those things were really in there
The starter was completely covered in oil and other gunk. Believe it or not, this was the starter after temporarily cleaning it:
I didn't get a chance to separate the trans from the motor. Going to continue this weekend. We're halfway there!!
I wanna thank you guys again for helping me out. Without your tips and guidance I'd probably spending a ton of $. Now the fun begins
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YUNG VEEZU
Active Member
quick question before I tackle this again this weekend, how do you seperate the the motor and the T45? Ive taken off all of the bellhousing bolts and the dowel pins are not touching. But the trans does not want to come off of the motor. Am I missing anything? The very bottom bolts that are connect to the cover of the flywheel are still on, but they look stripped
Those very bottom bolts that go in from the front of the trans, they need to come off. There is a spacer plate there that will hold you up.
By the way, great job on all of this. You are well on your way to success.
By the way, great job on all of this. You are well on your way to success.
DKblue98GT
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Nice work!
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YUNG VEEZU
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The past few hours I can't get this T45 out. Everything is disconnected and the trans just does not want to budge. The bottom two bolts are completely stripped as well. I may just leave the trans connected and start taking the heads off. This is a total time killer for me
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YUNG VEEZU
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I have clearly 2 inches of room, and after a couple of hours of wiggling up/down, left/right I didn't want to waste my more time on it.
I put it back on the motor and used one of the top bellhousing bolts for the chain. The T45 is going to be mounted to the motor for now. I took the headers off, and the rest of the front of the accessories. All that is left is to take the crankshaft pulley off.
I've never touched the crankshaft pulley before, the manual says I'm supposed to put a screwdriver where the starter gear is, so the crankshaft doesnt turn. Also I need to rent a pulley removal tool from the auto parts store correct?
I put it back on the motor and used one of the top bellhousing bolts for the chain. The T45 is going to be mounted to the motor for now. I took the headers off, and the rest of the front of the accessories. All that is left is to take the crankshaft pulley off.
I've never touched the crankshaft pulley before, the manual says I'm supposed to put a screwdriver where the starter gear is, so the crankshaft doesnt turn. Also I need to rent a pulley removal tool from the auto parts store correct?
MorbidSvtCobra
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Nice progress. Nows a good time to clean up and maybe paint those valve covers which im doing soon. Im having my block pressure washed so thats good too. Keep up posted.
Good work man. Its a big project! Youre doing great labeling everything. Keep cataloging it all and their shouldnt be a problem reinstalling.
About the blown gasket. I dont recal reading your plans. A blown head gasket typically means machine work needed on mating surfaces. If your lucky enough to be the head surface, machining will be simple. The block needing the work will be a bummer. Now here is the important part. Paying attention removing each head bolt and how it acts at that first initial turn. Their should be a pop from the shock of the bolt unseating. If no pop, this means the likely blown area, because the head bolt has failed. And what causes a failure is over heating. The bolt loses its tensile from access heat its not designed for and stretches.
Now when removing the head, its important to keep track of how the head gasket laid. If you can remove the head, leaving the gasket intact on the block, then take some real good pictures of the head surface up close as well the gasket on the block.....we gonna get you through this right.
Everything tells a story. Reading gasket and mating surfaces can narrow down the initial problem and hopefully save you from shelling ample amounts of cash out. A blown head gasket between two soft aluminum surfaces is a grindge factor knowing both surfaces will "typically" need machining, BUT!!! Luck may be in your favor! The gaskets be completely attached to the surfaces eliminating machining and the gasket itself has de-laminated allowing coolant to slip between the multi layers of the gasket.
Reading the surfaces and head gasket is your best bet figuring this out. Take good quality pics of all the surfaces. Heads and block. Both sides of head gasket. We all here to help.
About the blown gasket. I dont recal reading your plans. A blown head gasket typically means machine work needed on mating surfaces. If your lucky enough to be the head surface, machining will be simple. The block needing the work will be a bummer. Now here is the important part. Paying attention removing each head bolt and how it acts at that first initial turn. Their should be a pop from the shock of the bolt unseating. If no pop, this means the likely blown area, because the head bolt has failed. And what causes a failure is over heating. The bolt loses its tensile from access heat its not designed for and stretches.
Now when removing the head, its important to keep track of how the head gasket laid. If you can remove the head, leaving the gasket intact on the block, then take some real good pictures of the head surface up close as well the gasket on the block.....we gonna get you through this right.
Everything tells a story. Reading gasket and mating surfaces can narrow down the initial problem and hopefully save you from shelling ample amounts of cash out. A blown head gasket between two soft aluminum surfaces is a grindge factor knowing both surfaces will "typically" need machining, BUT!!! Luck may be in your favor! The gaskets be completely attached to the surfaces eliminating machining and the gasket itself has de-laminated allowing coolant to slip between the multi layers of the gasket.
Reading the surfaces and head gasket is your best bet figuring this out. Take good quality pics of all the surfaces. Heads and block. Both sides of head gasket. We all here to help.
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