10.9 is a metric bolt, it's actually a lot weaker than grade 8. Here's a chart to explain the madness, if you broke a grade 8 bolt on a shifter handle I would bet a lot of money on you in a boxing ring!!
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
EDIT: I was wrong! I didn't read the conversion chart correctly, and if you do decide to start boxing let me know!
I love them the only complaint I have is the communication with the company. I was just looking to get another set of the 3 piece bushing just in case... And the dealer I bought them from nor the manufacturer has repliedyour car looks great! I'm wondering how you like the J&M control arms?
I love them the only complaint I have is the communication with the company. I was just looking to get another set of the 3 piece bushing just in case... And the dealer I bought them from nor the manufacturer has replied
I have a set of their lowers for sale that look almost like new with the bushings still in great shape!!!!!!! ;-)
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Mine should be ok. My control arms are the cylindrical type with spherical bushings on the axle ends.Welcome back lol
I think I recently had the same problem. My sway bar was hitting my gas tank when I aired it out but after some thought i realized I needed to flip my lower control arms(just took them out and turned them 180 degrees).Next thing I had done was to make some more clearance for my tail pipes. Since I have the J&M control arms, they relocated the sway bar down and back further... I tried a couple other sway bars and they either were the same or lower. So I made my own holes on the sway bar... And the control arm to match
Holy balls spring steel sucks to drillView attachment 227 View attachment 228
I think I recently had the same problem. My sway bar was hitting my gas tank when I aired it out but after some thought i realized I needed to flip my lower control arms(just took them out and turned them 180 degrees).
I bet you killed a few bits drilling that sh%t lol
it was the last thought for me as well but I bet its the same for you. After looking at the instructions for mine there were none listed for which way they were supposed to be. I think I remember assuming that the side that had the manf name on it would go out so it could be seen, but if I had taken that one and put it on the other side it would have still had the manf name out. I just jacked it up, removed the two bolts to flip one and then held my bar up to see that yup that was what was needed. By doing this it moves the mounting points for the bar back toward the front about 2 maybe 3".I never thought about flipping the control arm....
And killed 3 Cobalt bits with carbid??? Tips and 2 cord drills....