Alright, The New plan

[Steven]

Through various options, I've had my motor kick my butt without really winning with any expediency. In light of that, I'd decided to snatch the motor back out. Redo it, go more bawls then walls. For those unaware, here is the run down

Current:
359w
Victor Jr heads
Edelbrock dual plane intake (to small)
Barry grant carb
Lunati Camshaft
Doug's headers
Flats top (11:1)
ARP junk

You get the idea. It's a flat tappet hydraulic backed by a TKO 500/Scattershield/centerforce. I've always had a fascination with solid roller/tappet camshafts and lightening drivetrain and valvetrain components. 7500 rpm's in a small block looks to be alot of fun. Since this motor still has some quirks, I'm going to snatch it and redo it with light weight, high rev in mind while also being driveable. New run down

359w
Cast flat tops (for weight, no intentions for FI)
Forged Eagle/someone I beams
Stock 69 Crank
Stock 69 block
Victor Jr heads
Vic Jr intake
BG carb
Solid roller Lunati 600 ish lift
New valve springs
Canton oil pan (road race)
Possibly new flywheel, to drop the 23lb centerforce one I have.

I was considering trying to go neutral balance. Or even 0 balance. Have to talk to my machine guy about it. Also considered finding a tunnel ram, but I'd have to cut my hood. Not really fond of that idea.

Discuss :wave:

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Solid lifter cams are alot of maint. Be prepaired to do valve adjustments every so often. Keeping that in mind make it easy to remove the valve covers by not clogging the engine bay with shit.

 

[Steven]

Well you know as even better then I do that these things hardly have any accessories. I don't have anything but a alternator. The most complicated valve cover blocker would be the heater hoses.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

I know, I am just sayin. Keep it simple.

 

[duh09]

Sounds like funnn!

I wish I had the funds to finish my other motor and drop it in the 67 before the end of the summer but I don't see that happening unless I sell the 95...

Lotsa pics!

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Solid rollers aren't for longevity, but I'm going to assume you know that.

Remmember to lighten from the top down, pistons, rings, pins, locks, rods, then crank. 0 balance on a 351w is going to be pricey because of the Mallory metal you'll need (if we're talking about a stock crank) Cast cranks are lighter than forged to BTW.

Lemme see, or yeah, locks and retainers can use titanium also, should help alot to get the revs up there.

 

[Steven]

I actually already have titanium locks and caps. I don't see me putting TONS of miles on this thing. Not my DD. It's alot better off then say a flat tappet solid, considering this will atleast roll on the camshaft. It's harder on the valvetrain, but more consistent. I will more then likely just run the lightest best bang for the bucks setup for balancing.