BULLITT BUILD

[vermilion]

id stick with you bullitt intake. not saying its better than the other just its already there. do you want all out racing or just a nice street vehicle? i know not everyone has the mindset of balls to the wall let me soak this engine for what its worth attitude.

 

[96 Bullitt UBB]

id stick with you bullitt intake. not saying its better than the other just its already there. do you want all out racing or just a nice street vehicle? i know not everyone has the mindset of balls to the wall let me soak this engine for what its worth attitude.

No no not all out.. i would be happy with anything over 300hp

 

[duff daddy]

id stick with you bullitt intake. not saying its better than the other just its already there. do you want all out racing or just a nice street vehicle? i know not everyone has the mindset of balls to the wall let me soak this engine for what its worth attitude.

lol nice and bwt its not balls to the wall its balls out.

 

[96 Bullitt UBB]

lol.. or we can not talk about balls that works too haha... fukin duff.. your car sounds so good you jerk..

 

[duff daddy]

lol.. or we can not talk about balls that works too haha... fukin duff.. your car sounds so good you jerk..

Thanks sonny, I dont ahve the mufflers anymore, the H pipe is sold and the headers are gone. This yer ti will be long tubes and thats it.

 

[Sinned83]

car sounds good Duff

 

[96 Bullitt UBB]

lol.. or we can not talk about balls that works too haha... fukin duff.. your car sounds so good you jerk..

Thanks sonny, I dont ahve the mufflers anymore, the H pipe is sold and the headers are gone. This yer ti will be long tubes and thats it.

haha sonny.. ok Dad... lol isnt that going to be crazy loud?? or is it not ur daily driver?

 

[vermilion]

i have long tubes and stroker. its whatever.

 

[duff daddy]

lol.. or we can not talk about balls that works too haha... fukin duff.. your car sounds so good you jerk..

Thanks sonny, I dont ahve the mufflers anymore, the H pipe is sold and the headers are gone. This yer ti will be long tubes and thats it.

haha sonny.. ok Dad... lol isnt that going to be crazy loud?? or is it not ur daily driver?

No Its going to be a track car. It was taken off the road this summer.

 

[vermilion]

taken off....

 

[duff daddy]

lol you can say that... Sorry its been a long week since the 21st

 

[vermilion]

all good poppa

 

[reivaxtorres]

Id like some suggestion and thoughts. Im getting all my stuff together for my bullitt 1 off car. I just got the new block and crank. its a all standard and i was thinking of what i could do to it and get a little more that 265 hp 302tq with out having to worrie about emissions... remebering that i live in California. any suggestions. its got to be a good runner nothing to crazy.. if i could get at or over 300 id be happy.. Thanks

do you have the pistons yet? if not, i would recommend getting a set of NPI spec dished pistons. this will bump up the compression from the factory 9.5:1 to about 10.5:1 (this number varies on who you ask...some say it only gives you 10:1, others say its 10.5:1). on my car, i had the NPI pistons, stock PI heads, stock PI cams, stock PI intake manifold, c&l 75mm plennum/elbow, bbk 75mm throttle body, k&n intake kit, fidanza aluminum 6 bolt flywheel, stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, bbk catted x pipe, magnaflow catback, and i made 270rwhp and 313rwtq, and still passed smog (i live in southern cali).

if you are building this engine for the bullitt, i say once you get the original engine out of your car, drop the assembled shortblock/heads into the bullitt and just swap over the bullitt manifold. one of the keys to having the car make power is making the engine as efficient as possible....if you want to get used rods, aim for the earlier NPI rods as they are lighter than the later ones (and thus not as strong..but should support about 350-400 whp), get an aluminum flywheel (ive found that the fidanza are among the lightest ones), and get the FRPP aluminum driveshaft.

 

[reivaxtorres]

oh, also....brand loyalty is very annoying. all TBs work the same, and accufab is over priced if you ask me, especially since they had the issue where the blade would stick...just like BBK.

 

[vermilion]

i just smoothened out the professional products piece. its cheaper among the others and the same design.

 

[duff daddy]

oh, also....brand loyalty is very annoying. all TBs work the same, and accufab is over priced if you ask me, especially since they had the issue where the blade would stick...just like BBK.

Brand loyalty is apparent everywhere. Accufab is a good company,its funny where most of the NMRA classes that can use a stock style t/b the accufab is the most widly used. It is what it is. If you want the power if you want the part you get the best you can buy. Not always saying the most expensive is the best but in this case, it may be.

Use what you want, He asked me what I would to to build. Im building a 2v right now, and accufab is the way to go.

 

[96 Bullitt UBB]

Id like some suggestion and thoughts. Im getting all my stuff together for my bullitt 1 off car. I just got the new block and crank. its a all standard and i was thinking of what i could do to it and get a little more that 265 hp 302tq with out having to worrie about emissions... remebering that i live in California. any suggestions. its got to be a good runner nothing to crazy.. if i could get at or over 300 id be happy.. Thanks

do you have the pistons yet? if not, i would recommend getting a set of NPI spec dished pistons. this will bump up the compression from the factory 9.5:1 to about 10.5:1 (this number varies on who you ask...some say it only gives you 10:1, others say its 10.5:1). on my car, i had the NPI pistons, stock PI heads, stock PI cams, stock PI intake manifold, c&l 75mm plennum/elbow, bbk 75mm throttle body, k&n intake kit, fidanza aluminum 6 bolt flywheel, stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, bbk catted x pipe, magnaflow catback, and i made 270rwhp and 313rwtq, and still passed smog (i live in southern cali).

if you are building this engine for the bullitt, i say once you get the original engine out of your car, drop the assembled shortblock/heads into the bullitt and just swap over the bullitt manifold. one of the keys to having the car make power is making the engine as efficient as possible....if you want to get used rods, aim for the earlier NPI rods as they are lighter than the later ones (and thus not as strong..but should support about 350-400 whp), get an aluminum flywheel (ive found that the fidanza are among the lightest ones), and get the FRPP aluminum driveshaft.

Im making my 96 a bullitt clone.. and no i havnt bought the piston kit yet .. but thats good to hear cuz i live in Northern Ca.. and i have to be able to pass smog too. Do you have to run 91 with the higher compression?

 

[reivaxtorres]

oh, also....brand loyalty is very annoying. all TBs work the same, and accufab is over priced if you ask me, especially since they had the issue where the blade would stick...just like BBK.

Brand loyalty is apparent everywhere. Accufab is a good company,its funny where most of the NMRA classes that can use a stock style t/b the accufab is the most widly used. It is what it is. If you want the power if you want the part you get the best you can buy. Not always saying the most expensive is the best but in this case, it may be.

Use what you want, He asked me what I would to to build. Im building a 2v right now, and accufab is the way to go.

true enough. personally i dont think accufab has anything special with their 2v throttle bodies that cant be obtained elsewhere. just my opinion. only reason i currently have an accufab is because 1) aside from Dragon, no one else makes a single blade TB (bullitt) and 2) for $60, you cant beat the price.

 

[reivaxtorres]

Id like some suggestion and thoughts. Im getting all my stuff together for my bullitt 1 off car. I just got the new block and crank. its a all standard and i was thinking of what i could do to it and get a little more that 265 hp 302tq with out having to worrie about emissions... remebering that i live in California. any suggestions. its got to be a good runner nothing to crazy.. if i could get at or over 300 id be happy.. Thanks

do you have the pistons yet? if not, i would recommend getting a set of NPI spec dished pistons. this will bump up the compression from the factory 9.5:1 to about 10.5:1 (this number varies on who you ask...some say it only gives you 10:1, others say its 10.5:1). on my car, i had the NPI pistons, stock PI heads, stock PI cams, stock PI intake manifold, c&l 75mm plennum/elbow, bbk 75mm throttle body, k&n intake kit, fidanza aluminum 6 bolt flywheel, stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, bbk catted x pipe, magnaflow catback, and i made 270rwhp and 313rwtq, and still passed smog (i live in southern cali).

if you are building this engine for the bullitt, i say once you get the original engine out of your car, drop the assembled shortblock/heads into the bullitt and just swap over the bullitt manifold. one of the keys to having the car make power is making the engine as efficient as possible....if you want to get used rods, aim for the earlier NPI rods as they are lighter than the later ones (and thus not as strong..but should support about 350-400 whp), get an aluminum flywheel (ive found that the fidanza are among the lightest ones), and get the FRPP aluminum driveshaft.

Im making my 96 a bullitt clone.. and no i havnt bought the piston kit yet .. but thats good to hear cuz i live in Northern Ca.. and i have to be able to pass smog too. Do you have to run 91 with the higher compression?

yeah, the only catch to running any aftermarket midpipe is finding a smog shop that is a little more relaxed when it comes to the visual inspection. i dont believe there are any CARB legal midpipes on the market anymore. but you mentioned earlier that you wanted to run a stock midpipe, so this shouldnt be an issue but it will rob you of a little power.

as for running 91 octane, yes, you would have to run 91 for the higher compression. ive heard of people running the NPI/PI combo with 89 octane....but at that point you might as well just make the jump to 91 octane and be safer. 87 vs 91 usually equals about $2-3 bucks more at the pump anyways, not much of a difference.

oh, and a tune is nice to have as well. my tune only netted me 5rwhp and 3rwtq (i was at 265/310 pre-tune, 270/313 post-tune), but the curve really straightened out. car felt smoother

 

[duff daddy]

96 shortblock pi heads, comp 270 cams and I had to run 93 ( could pass for 91 but played it safe due to the fluctaion of octane) I ran my car for about a week or 2 ( 300 miles plus) prior to getting it tuned and was alright, just didnt go wide open throttle or any hard pulls. It was around 10.5:1 I think last time I did the math