Good thing we don’t have deadlines to meet because I would’ve been fired years ago.
I’d prefer to not use ARP for something like the cam tower, had planned on head bolts… though the 18+ aren’t even available from LMR and from what I’ve found are like $450? LMR does have a Ford Racing set of head bolts and I can’t tell if they are TTY or reusable?For the firing order correction, you have to swap all 4 cams, not just exhaust cams.
If you’re swapping cams, swap all the phasers as well. Some interchange, some do not. The cam tower bolts are debate able. They are said to be one time use, but I have removed mine 3 or 4 times and reused them. The bolts are not torqued very high, and mine have held up great. If you don’t want to do that, then you can get the arp bolts.
The head bolts are tty, and I don’t typically reuse them. Check out apex head studs. They are being made by Boundary (the same company making oil pumps). I saw those studs at PRI last year and was really impressed.I’d prefer to not use ARP for something like the cam tower, had planned on head bolts… though the 18+ aren’t even available from LMR and from what I’ve found are like $450? LMR does have a Ford Racing set of head bolts and I can’t tell if they are TTY or reusable?
I know the regular are TTY but there’s another set by FRPP that are marketed as being better than the normal head bolts it’s just not clear if they are still TTY.The head bolts are tty, and I don’t typically reuse them. Check out apex head studs. They are being made by Boundary (the same company making oil pumps). I saw those studs at PRI last year and was really impressed.
It's really not that bad in my mind, as long as you put everything in the appropriate "bucket."This makes my head hurt lol. Seems a lot of ways this could go sideways if you're not VERY diligent in your research.
The timing can be tricky, but it’s easy as long as you pay attention. I will try to get the ford procedure for setting the timing and post it up for you.
for sure toss that composite oil pan. And if a better pick up tube is made for your aftermarket oil pan, replace it as well. We made those oil pans and pick up tubes at my work. Believe me when i say replace them.
I have to double check the gen 3 stuff, but the gen 2’s time like that but you time one side of the engine then rotate the crankshaft and time the other side of the engine.Seems like you start with keyway at 12, which puts all pistons out of contact, and then start with phasers and secondary timing chains with timing marks opposite each other. The single link should be on the intake cam and the two links should straddle the exhaust timing mark, then move on the primary matching links, then before activating a single side of tensioners verify that no links jumped. That's my quick knowledge.
That being said, I'll take any Ford info. for the systems I'm working on because I don't have any manuals with proedure or torque specs and was going to have to write that all down from researching. Thanks!
Which ones did you make? I'm leaning towards just grabbing the power by the hour pan conversion, but either way I'll be using a Ford Gen 2 pan.
I think you time driver side first?I have to double check the gen 3 stuff, but the gen 2’s time like that but you time one side of the engine then rotate the crankshaft and time the other side of the engine.
Gen 3 uses direct and port injection. You need bothJust picked up the intake, don’t need the fuel rail unless I delete direct injection:
View attachment 29940
Should be picking up a crank pulley and throttle body tomorrow.
That’s what I was saying, I don’t need this fuel rail unless I wanted to delete direct injection… which I don’t. The guy included it with the intake, maybe I can sell it…Gen 3 uses direct and port injection. You need both
No, I mean youre going to need that fuel rail AND the direct injection. You'll use thatThat’s what I was saying, I don’t need this fuel rail unless I wanted to delete direct injection… which I don’t. The guy included it with the intake, maybe I can sell it…