Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[Snorky]

If i recal correctly, the mustang oil pan is a bit more shallow than truck 5.4l/6.8l pans.....could be the opposite...i cant remember. But yeah, do check it!

The F series oil pan is wayyyu deeper. The E350 pan has a different shape and is a lot closer to a mustang pan. We will see how different it is

 

[Snorky]

Started slicing the pan open like a can of tuna fish. Now the pan will sit correctly with the oil pickup tube. Cut 3/8" off of the stand off since the pan was sitting on the pickup tube. Here are some rough measurements with a straight edge. Block to pickup and block to pan. These are measured without a gasket. So add 1/8".

I will check with playdoh next time as I forgot it when I did this work... doh!


The pickup tube is tipped back a little so it's not level with the block, so these measurements can be taken loosely.

Grabbed the pan and checked capacity. This is 8 quarts to this point. I think 8 will probably be fine.

 

[96blak54]

Gawldang.....that v10 beast will be a 12quart engine. I used one of them manual transfer pumps to fill the engine before starting. Its surprising how much oil these modulars holds internally.

Great work by the way

 

[Snorky]

Gawldang.....that v10 beast will be a 12quart engine. I used one of them manual transfer pumps to fill the engine before starting. Its surprising how much oil these modulars holds internally.

Great work by the way

Thanks lol. Yeah I have a little pump sprayer setup with adapters to manually prime the engine when the time comes. I fully plan to start this thing in its engine cradle with the trans attached on dollies lol or make a legit test stand. I want to know if the bottom end will eat itself immediately before tearing apart a perfectly good running mustang to swap it into.

Do you think it's safe to start the engine on the engine cradle with the trans attached on dollies?

 

[96blak54]

I couldnt see why not. Ive seen videos of people running v8's just sitting in shopping carts. Should be fine on an engine cradle.

 

[Snorky]

Was a little bored so I decided to warm up red car. I need to make it up to the garage to tinker with the v10 some more.

 

[Snorky]

Got home from my trip to Rochester later Friday night. Sl I felt motivated sunday to make some moves. First things first a I took the dirty girl for a cruise into the backroads of Jersey and stopped by a damn area.

Not bad for not washing it in months, sitting out in thr snow. Love these days that salt has been washed off the roads and it'd at a heat wave of 40s.




Reservoir is low, the spill gated are closed it, in summer this Is a wild waterfall. After the cruise I felt motivated to go work on the engine some. I'll post that in a little bit.

 

[Snorky]

Carried that awesome motivation up to the garage. I put the standoff and played around with washers, got my 3/16-3/8 pan clearance. I'll take it!! Checked it with the playdoh too.. now it's legit. Only downside. I bought bolts that were too long.. oh well. Ordered more stainless bolts for the pan. Hopefully m8x20mm will be short enough. If I have to ill order m8x16. So pan will go on next time. Then I took the timing cover back off (since I forgot the crank reluctor wheel even though I literally put it right in line with the rest of the parts to put on lol.) Put that silly throwing star on and buttoned it back up.

Went over to the fuel rails and started fitting the adapters I ordered.

The 14mm-6AN adapter slipped right on with a drop of oil. The 11mm-6an goes on and just stops!

It appears the bottom part of the spring wants to go over but the top part does not. I need to check if it's hanging up inside. Perhaps the fitting is too short and it needs to be buzzed down.l to prevent bottoming out. I ordered 6 AN ptfe lined fuel hose, 40 ft worth. The appropriate fittings and a fuel filter. Next I need to find a fuel hat that eill drop into a 94 tank. That seems to be an anomaly. Loads appear to exist for a fox.

I popped thr spark plugs in at 144" lbs, gapped at .054" factory spec. Since this will be NA. Then felt ambitious so i opened the BBK headers and bolted them up with 3 M8 bolts per side that I had laying around.

This is exciting. As Garrit mentioned, I will probably just tie the front set of primaries into the second set of primaries. A quick 90 and a straight I suppose. I have an older rusty set of headers. I will cut the primaries in the front and sand blast the hell out of them. Perhaps I can make some magic happen. Tack them into place.

Basically once the headers are fit. I'll try and use the K member to come up with how much I need to "dent them" to clear the frame rails.then I can get a torch and ratchet strap them to fit a longtube H pipe I have laying around. If that works out. Then I can probably locate a crank and cam sensor and put them in and then it should theoretically be time to start the flywheel clutch tranny attachment so I can mount a starter. Making progress!

 

[96blak54]

Oh dis is so badass!

 

[Snorky]

Alright.. so I finally had a moment to go up to the garage. Nothing too intense. Held up the starter and it should clear the long tubes. So I pulled them and have a fixture plate to try and make a custome header. I then bolted up the cam/crank sensors and on went the oil pan!! Huge ogre looking engine. Very exciting!!!


Hopefully I can figure out some headers. Then I can toss the K member on. And start doing things like crank pulley fly qheel clutch. Move it to dollies/ATTACH the trans
Then headers back on. Intake manifold/cops. Figure out the one return port to AN adapter. Seems like the fpar part is just a little off for the spring piece. Might need a little modification to make it work. Then the fuel rails and injectors can be added. Will need to come up eith a PVC or just stab breathers into the covers.

The next major debacle. The wiring harness will be started. I found a superduty wiring harness book and ordered it. Once it arrives I can start really going through the harness.

 

[ttocs]

oh man I had not considered how much fun headers will be on that. Is there a premade version that will work or are you VERY good friends with a good exhaust guy, or about to become a good friend to one after writing the check?

It always looks strange to me seeing 5 holes on this thing.

 

[Snorky]

oh man I had not considered how much fun headers will be on that. Is there a premade version that will work or are you VERY good friends with a good exhaust guy, or about to become a good friend to one after writing the check?

It always looks strange to me seeing 5 holes on this thing.

LOL the header I am going to take the gains on 8 of the 10 slugs. The front primaries will literally be tied right into the ones immediately behind it. So it won't be a huge deal like adding another full length primary. I'm more concerned about the primaries and the firewall clearance as the engine will be shifted back a little

How this effects performance? Who knows.. going to make it work though, and kerpbit simple. I feel you on the 5 holes being weird to look at lol. It throws me off everytime I look at it too

The bigger question is further down the road when I want to make a custom Intake. That's where it gets hairy. My thoughts are cut 2 eddie intakes in half. Widen them. Then cut them so one is 3 sets of ports and the other is 2. Then make an adapter plate to have the v10 dual throttle body attached. That's down the line though when I'm worried about a hood clearing it.

 

[Snorky]

What appears to be the superduty wiring scripture has arrived. Let's see if I can make sense of this bundle of snakes. Arp fly wheel and pressure plate bolts have arrived. Just need to get some tranny bellhousing bolts from a local guy and see what's what.

 

[asherauto]

FINALLY, I can reply! Awesome build, I've read through all 25 pages. I recently (about 2 weeks ago) pulled a 2v 6.8L out of a 2000 F250 along with the complete wiring harness. I'm looking to prune through the diagrams myself and see which wires can be used to run it on an engine stand without issue

 

[ttocs]

I have the same for my mustang I, I call it the wiring bible... I think I got spoiled by it and how complete its diagrams are while trying to find some parts for my new car/subaru. They do not offer specific drawings of individual parts and their differences for example they have 4 clock springs available depending on what options the car has but if you look for the drawings they are all the same and basically a cartoon drawing of what they show for all of them

 

[Snorky]

Been working on the house a bunch so progress has slowed some. I put the crank pulley on withe the ARP bolt. Tq to 100 lb ft . Put the K member on. Hand tight at the moment. It's interesting how I never realized that the engines sit towards the passenger side some.


Then I decided I wanted to get the show on the road so I modified my dollies setup. It was really unstable and sketchy with the green cars setup.


Added a support to the front for the K to sit on and a platform that registers like a key into the LCA slots keyway. Should be a lot more stable now.

Was ready to make the transfer, I received arp flywheel/pressure plate bolts in the mail. Went locally and picked up some trans bellhousing bolts from a friend. Then I realized I didn't have a bellhousing spacer. FUDGE! SHRIMP!since my daughter is reading over my shoulder. Lol

Somehow I have 2 automatic spacer plates but I have never owned an auto.

Looks like I need to go on lmr since Noone locally Hass any and ebay wants $45 shipped which is $7 less for an old rusty one vs a new one. Also considering a clutch fork, pivot ball and a new dust shield.

Anyone have any experience with cheapo amazon/ebay clutch forks and pivot balls?

 

[ttocs]

amazon is selling just as much fake crap as ebay is now. I would avoid going too cheap....

 

[Snorky]

amazon is selling just as much fake crap as ebay is now. I would avoid going too cheap....

Thanks for the quick response. Sometimes I consider getting super Dutch with this project since I have no idea if this thing will even run. Lol. I am half expecting to rebuild the shortblock for cylinder wall surface finish or a ring folded over or something stupid like that.

 

[ttocs]

I use to be all about finding the cheapest place but a few years ago when I was looking for memory for my computer I noticed that there was some that was just WAY too cheap. I worked for intel making microchips and memory chips and understand the army of people and the millions of dollars it would cost to put up a fake chip fab. When I realized they can fake those was the day I stopped searching for the cheapest price and instead made sure they are an authorized dealer and pay the difference to know it is not crap.

 

[Snorky]

I use to be all about finding the cheapest place but a few years ago when I was looking for memory for my computer I noticed that there was some that was just WAY too cheap. I worked for intel making microchips and memory chips and understand the army of people and the millions of dollars it would cost to put up a fake chip fab. When I realized they can fake those was the day I stopped searching for the cheapest price and instead made sure they are an authorized dealer and pay the difference to know it is not crap.

Make an excellent point. I have learned time and time again with the green car about cutting corners and fixing them later. PAIN lol. Crazy about knock off microchips.. makes me question a lot of things being made.

Needless to say I ordered from LMR
-Bell housing spacer
-pro5.0 oem style pivot ball
-ford clutch fork
-clutch fork dust shield

Hopefully that will get it so I can make some monumental steps forward.