Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[ttocs]

500 is a fair price. I would not feel bad asking that and not haggling. I have often wondered what mine might go for now after being ported/polished inside, polished outside of the upper and then ceramic coated them both.

 

[Snorky]

500 is a fair price. I would not feel bad asking that and not haggling. I have often wondered what mine might go for now after being ported/polished inside, polished outside of the upper and then ceramic coated them both.

I imagine it could go for quite a but then, polishing takes sooooo long to do. Have pictures of it?

 

[joemomma]

$500 should get it moved for you without too much issue. Sure, you could post it for $750-1000, but it might not sell. At least at $500, it should move quickly.

 

[Snorky]

So today was a bit exciting, my clutch for the v10 arrived, mcleod super street pro.. 11" for a tr-3650.. that I haven't located yet, lol




Ohhh dual material friction disc. This should hopefully work out and not be a miserable selection.


Decided to get some work done on the rear seats.


Stripped the bottom... what fun, ford really did glue the leather to the seat!



And I stripped the top. I forgot to bring home the upper seat bracket so I won't be able to skin the top yet. I need to make a threading needle out of a coat hanger, then I can start skinning the bottom seat. Super exciting!

 

[lwarrior1016]

Can you take pictures and document how you put the skins on? I’ve don’t the hog ring stuff a couple times, but never threaded one. I’d like to see the process.

 

[Snorky]

Can you take pictures and document how you put the skins on? I’ve don’t the hog ring stuff a couple times, but never threaded one. I’d like to see the process.

Yeah man, I'll do my best to take plenty of pictures. The tmi stuff is actually super nice, I am blown away how nice and soft the vinyl is.

 

[Snorky]

Can you take pictures and document how you put the skins on? I’ve don’t the hog ring stuff a couple times, but never threaded one. I’d like to see the process.

Ask and you shall receive. This post is picture heavy.. like very heavy lol

Alright, so I started on the lower seat, only half way finished with the stays.. I ran out of nylon string. So hopefully a store will be open to get some. And while I am out I will pickup the upper seat frame so I can do the top portion too. Anyway.. here goes.

Step one.. cut a metal hanger and bend it to make some threading needles...

So in the forward to backward runners, a 13" stay rod is placed, the back side of the rod should basically be 3/8" behind the rear left to right stay. The front to back ones when pulled will forced the three left to right stays down into their grooves respectfully.


End of the rod is about where my finger is. Use the threading rod to pierce the fabric over the rod and pull the string through. Rethread the needle and send it straight through.



Pull semi tight and tie it around a piece of plastic like seen in the later pics. The first one I did about 1/2" behind the left to right rod. The second about 1/4" in front of the rear left to right rod.



And the third an inch back from the front of the rod.

 

[Snorky]

You use a pieces of plastic like this

This stuff strangely reminds me of the plastics we use on our machine loaders at work. Anyway.. you tie them up like so. Pull them Tigghhtttt and tie them tight. Might consider double triple knotting them when you are ready.

Now you take three 13 7/8" rods and slide them into the left to right channels. I had to snip the cloth channels a little to fit therod through. You stick the rods so they run underneath the rod you just tied in. You want them to go under and about 1/4" past it. Then you slide another 13" rod in the front to back fabric channel on the outside of the seat.. and this will go over the three left to right rods you installed. That way when this is pulled down it pulls the three ribs down into their channels.

Now you run the threading needle through like you did before.. only the locations you need to come through are not at random.


The middle and rear tie downs are aimed at the seat frame holes and tied off there. Aiming this was a little challenging.

The front is aimed to tie around this frame rod here where my thumb is.



All three tied off as shown. Pull TIGHT!!! And tie off. Make sure the inner rod with thr plastic is tight as well.

 

[Snorky]

This is how it will look when the stays and tie downs are finished on the right vs the left.

Once I get more string and do the tie dwen stays on the passenger side then I can pull everything tight. Apply a little heat and start hog ringing the perimeter down and try to make it wrinkle free. This project is nice since I can do it at home in my living room while watching my daughter play.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Very cool! Thank you a bunch. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

 

[Snorky]

Very cool! Thank you a bunch. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

I'll give it another go when I find more string. Just picked up the upper seat frame and heatbgun so game on tomorrow and or Tuesday . I'll take more pics if I can

 

[Snorky]

Very cool! Thank you a bunch. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

Mas. So this is a step by step





Then it is tied around the plastic.

Now I have found if I flip the cushion over. Place my knee where the stay rod is and pushing down on the plastic sinking it into the foam I can tie it tighter getting the stay rods deeper into the channels. On the outside you place your knee where the stay rod is and press down using your wrist with all your might on the cushion and pull the slack out and carefully tied it to the frame rods it will definitely make everything tighter and more crisp looking.

Like so

 

[lwarrior1016]

Thanks a ton! You make it look so easy, lol. I’m going to keep all this info handy for when I do my seats.

 

[ttocs]

funny I think that is the first time I have seen someone do that here. Seems like we have seen almost everything at one time or another.

 

[Snorky]

Thanks a ton! You make it look so easy, lol. I’m going to keep all this info handy for when I do my seats.

funny I think that is the first time I have seen someone do that here. Seems like we have seen almost everything at one time or another.

I will take some photos of the hog ring operation as well. This is actually my first time fucking with this shit. Lol it's not terrible. Just wears on the forearms a little. I am trying to document as much of this project as possible. Thought about doing videos but I don't have patience for setting up video cameras and editing.

 

[Snorky]

Well the hog rings were exhausting, but the seat bottom is complete. Did a few rings here and there while watching yellowstone with my wife.



Here is the end result



Now I will hit it with a heat gun a little and massage it a little to get some of the wrinkles out. I would call this a job well done next up will be the rear seat back!

 

[96blak54]

Yes! Job well done! Id say job done by professional!

 

[Snorky]

Yes! Job well done! Id say job done by professional!

Why thank you sir! So far I would definitely 10 out of 10 repeat. The 99-04s use stays and hog rings instead of glue so you can reuse the front foams if they are in good condition. So a 99-04 car it would be cheaper. But I will say the 94-98 seats are far more comfortable.

 

[Snorky]

So tonight's project was working on the seat back, did this while my wife and I watch Yellowstone and two episodes of south park.

Step 1 was to snip the 6 horizontal 13" stay sleeves on both sides. Then I fished the four 17" stays through their sleeves and center them so the ends were about 5.5" from the horizontal stays.

Next I used my handy dandy threading needle(modified coat hanger) and sent it through the 17" rod sleeve and down through the foam at 1/2" in from the ends of the 17"stay and also at the middle of the rod.. at the middle horizontal stay location. Then these were tied off repeated the process on the other center section.

Once made super tight using the knee and frame push technique. I tied them off and started fishing the three 13" rods into the horizontal stay sleeves. Tucking them under the vertical stay rods by 1/4"... this way when the vertical tie downs are tightened, it will draw the horizontals into their respective foam grooves.


Next I fished the lines through the outside vertical stay sleeves in four positions. Essentially 1/4" or so from the rod ends and then right on the outsides of the horizontal stays ss seen in the picture below. Then they are sent through the foam using the hanger.



So, with the outside vertical stay tie downs. You send the hanger straight down through the foam on the middle two. Tying right to the frame as with the middle stays. The top one is fished towards the outside to go through the frame loop while the bottom one is fished downwards to get the outer most loop on the bottom of the frame.


Next, fold the cover over the foam. The original perimeter stays are used in the new covers. So always keep those before chucking your old skins. Gish them into your new skins. They may need to have the top aleev snipped to insert the top perimeter stay.

Next the sides are massaged and streeetcheddd and pullllled and stuffed to get the side stays close to hog ring to the inside of the loops as seen below. Do this eith both sides. The bottom hog rings to the lower frame loops. And the top folds over and hog rings to the top rod. The excess material in the corner I neatly folded and hog ring it to itself.


Not too bad. Worlds easier than the bottom cushion. That took an immense amount of pulling and stretching. I would be lying if I said I wasn't tired. Was a fun learning experience though.

 

[Snorky]

I can add more pictures of the jog ring job on the seats if you want, just let me know. Here are the results.