Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[Snorky]

I tore down a 2v alternator once. It was pretty straight forward. Make sure to make alignment marks on the two halves of the case. I think there is a good tear down video on you tube.

That would be awesome!!! Do I do a black alternator with a blue pulley or a black pulley and a blue alternator? The timing cover, intake manifold and accessory pulleys are blue. The valve covers. Crank pulley, block, water pump and plenum elbow are black.

 

[ttocs]

If you want to be safe just look and there is probably a local alternator and starter shop in the area that could do but I took mine apart and it wasn't all that big of a deal.

 

[lwarrior1016]

That would be awesome!!! Do I do a black alternator with a blue pulley or a black pulley and a blue alternator? The timing cover, intake manifold and accessory pulleys are blue. The valve covers. Crank pulley, block, water pump and plenum elbow are black.

I vote blue pulley and black case just to make it look like the rest. Don’t forget to make the connection point between the alternator and the engine block bare so it has a ground path.

 

[lwarrior1016]

This is the video I remembered.

 

[ttocs]

I had mine powder coated and it has a separate ground lug on it but as he said be sure that where it goes against the engine is bare and as clean as possible for grounding

 

[Snorky]

I had mine powder coated and it has a separate ground lug on it but as he said be sure that where it goes against the engine is bare and as clean as possible for grounding

Wow thanks for the link! I will totally get that taken apart this week if I can manage it with the shoulder healing up. Then it will either receive paint or powder. Probably the same ceramic paint as everything else. The pulley will get the powder job

 

[Snorky]

So back to this thread. As I mentioned in another I picked up this 1994 gt vert which may or may not be the home for this v10 when the time comes. We will see as life unfolds.

Car has its idiosyncrasies. It's laser red. So it has some clear coat peal and fading in some areas.. it has questionable window seals.. the pass. Quarter window is loose. When the windows go up. They don't line up right. The throwout bearing screams bloody murder. Some idiot used a few giant washers that arent even large enough for the application instead of a firewall adjuster so the clutch cable zig zags through the firewall and binds up. The seats are fucked. The head liner has a faded stripe at the front. The wheels have been dented from hitting curbs. Missing hardware. Etc.

Pros. Runs and drives, 3.73 gears (not a pro but a welded diff) flowmasters and an off road H, a supposed E cam, a half way decent top that functions, a cobra bumper eith a 3 inch crack. And the creme.. the white and black interior. So hot!.

Wife doesn't want me to tear up this car for a v10.. and to be honest the 302 sound makes me think twice. So the plan is to fix it up and drive it while I iron out and collect as many items and things as I can for the long term swap.

 

[Snorky]

So Friday I went out and picked up the following from a 30k mile lazer vert.

Quarter windows, tracks/regulators
Side skirts with semi respectable paint
Rear bumper thats not pealing
Non faded trim pieces that go on the sides of the windshield.
Laser red 94/95 horizontal
And a cup of miscellaneous interior bolts
for $300 I think I did alright

So I moved green car outside and pulled red car in the garage. I dove right in with the limited mobility and strength of my shoulder. Not going to lie.. green car shouldnt be out there. But the new Cali cover for red car fits greencar like a goddamn glove. I had them make it for an s281 wing. Cobra bumper and a cobra R hood so it magically fits perfectly.

-Tightened up the loose short throw handle to the base.
- replaced the missing bolt for the center console to dash. No longer loose. Yay
-pulled the lower back seat. Pulled both door cards.. the savage that owned ot before me snapped half of the mounting hooks off the door card.. they were all laying in the bottom of the door as well as the drivers front window stop.

-pulled the passenger rear interior panel and dug into the quarter window. Removed the window and low and behold.. the bracket is completely off of the window. So no wonder it was loose.

Replaced it with a new one a bought.. good as new

Next I removed the mirror adjustment switch from the door cup and popped it in the new cheap daniel carpenter door cups from LMR. Ftw!

Then I pulled the window out of the drivers door. Someone had screwed with it before so it wasn't riveted to the tracks. Just nuts and bolts. Do off came the seals wipers from the door and out came the glass. As you can see the drivers seat was replaced at some point.. has a hole in it.. and doesn't quite match. Bummer!



Here is the glass and stop. So the plan is to sand blast the stop bracket where it attaches.. probably dip it in alcohol and then use some sort of 3m glass adhesive(the type will be determined) thr glass I will mark, clean, scuff it with scotch bright alcohol/acetone for cleaning. Then reglue it.


Here are the trim pieces I will probably install on the next go at it.



Then I removed the CJponyparts banner and cleaned the outside of the windshield.


Then thr last activity for today was assembling my mod motor engine priming device. Which is nothing more than a garden sprayer with AN fittings plumbed into it and a 6an hose. Some extra adapters for the oil filter housing or for the mmr adapter I have with AN fittings.


After I put my daughter to bed I will give it a go at jb plastic welding the hooks back onto the door panel. As well as the black part to the white part where the savage broke those too!

 

[Snorky]

So the fixturing is quite comical. Just added a second coat of plastic epoxy to the hooks this evening. The white to blakc panel on the door card is solid! My 3m windshield adhesive is in so i can get to the windshield stop either late tonight or tomorrow.. enjoy!

 

[ttocs]

if you want the hooks to be a little stronger, fill that void between them in the back with epoxy. The more it has to get a grip on the better it will hold

 

[joemomma]

220/221, whatever it takes!

 

[NXcoupe]

Read the thread, quite a cool project you have going. How's the shoulder? There used to be a web page and a business that specialized in V10 mustangs, but can't remember the names.
Anyway, I'll be following along. Good luck.

 

[Snorky]

Read the thread, quite a cool project you have going. How's the shoulder? There used to be a web page and a business that specialized in V10 mustangs, but can't remember the names.
Anyway, I'll be following along. Good luck.

Hey there, shoulder is getting better. In PT getting my full range of motion back. I probably have 65% of it back. Starting to do resistance pt now as well. Hopefully I can make this a speedy recovery. In relative terms. I will still try and get the red car prepped for cruising though while I wait for the v10 parts. :-D. Thanks for asking about the shoulder!

 

[ttocs]

we gonna do anything custom-cool with the fuel rails while ya wait?

 

[Snorky]

we gonna do anything custom-cool with the fuel rails while ya wait?

Still need to machine them some more. Only I cannot use or setup the bridge port yet with 1.5 arms. Lol

 

[Snorky]

Today I went with a buddy and scored a cervinis 95 cobra R hood for $275. Which i think is a pretty good deal.. I will probably vinyl wrap it carbon fiber until it's time to do body work and paint for the car. Now I am on the lookout for a wing and some foglights.. a local guy said he has a vert styling bar and saleen front bumper for sale. Tempting... the style bar.. the saleen bumper is a all or nothing deal

 

[Snorky]

Alright, decided to burn the late night oil tonight. Getting to learn all about redcar tonight,and boy is she interesting.

Put the car in the air,removed the H pipe, pulled the clutch cable and drive shaft. So it appears that redcar was originally an automatic, deducting this off of the hole shape in the trans tunnel. Plus the hanging lines which looked like it would go to an auto trans cooler. Perhaps someone can comment on that.

Additionally, the drive shaft bolts were completely loose and the pinion is slinging some fluid.

It has an aluminum drive shaft..


Some form of spec clutch and the throwout bearing is completely separated in 3 pieces. The clutch fork is loose like a goose and not clicking into the pivot ball so that should probably be replaced. And this is what one of the previous owners used as a firewall adjuster.. only they are nearly the same sizes the hole so it just bound the cable up.

Quickly installed a ford racing click style adjuster. And decided to drain the trans fluid so I can get ready to pull the T5.

 

[Snorky]

Another surprise.. steeda triaX shifter and look at that jig saw hole batman!



Never pulled a T5 before so I should google this activity. I have only ever pulled a mustang 3650 a few dozen times, and a tr6060 once.

 

[Snorky]

The throw out bearing ladies and gentlemen... and the bent clutch fork tabs to hold it to the pivot ball. Will replace both of these I suppose.

And that's all for tonight folks...

 

[07GtS197]

What’s the door sticker say? The trans code should be there.