ttocs
Post Whore
ok I thought it was just turning on when the battery is connected but not with the key. I wish I had my mustang bibles wiring section but I do not have access to it.
Assuming you did nothing else to the wiring, and the previous fuel pump was working fine, then something awfully strange is going on. You are all of a sudden getting battery voltage on a wire that is supposed to be on in the IGN position. This happens now with your replacement CCRM, yes?
Have you confirmed that your ignition switch is off? Not in ACC? If yours is like mine, you can turn the key clockwise to ACC, RUN and START (IIRC) and also you can turn it counter-clockwise to ACC. ACC will prime the fuel pump. Some older, worn ignitions might let you put it in the ACC state and still remove the key. Double check that your ignition is the OFF position. If it is, then there might be something wrong with the switch itself. Disconnect the fuel pump so you don't burn anything out. Then see if your radio will come on.
Lastly, I'm not sure why your CCRM burned out. I assume the pump was pulling too many amps through the relay, but somehow still under the fuse threshold. Not sure. You might have a separate issue not related to the pump. Could be coincidence. Did you do any other wiring? Did you move the CCRM around, modify an wires/connections?
Edit: I think the fuel pump relay is inside the CCRM. Not sure how you test it other than probing the correct pins on the harness that connects to the CCRM.
did you wire an external relay like is recomended from aeromotive?
Any update on this? My aeromotive 340lph should be arriving in a few days from summit. It does make sense what TTOCS said about him passing threshold of being safe, it must be drawing more power for a reason.
Except that the Aeromotive stealth units are designed to be dropped in using OEM wiring. Wouldn't be very stealth otherwise. Having said that, if one *wants* to run heavier gauge wire and separate relays, etc. then go for it. Certainly won't hurt. However, I don't think that's a requirement for these specific pumps. But I'm not sure. I will do some research.
Also, and again could be wrong, but I'm not convinced that this is the OP's problem. If the pump was under-amped, then it wouldn't push enough fuel (fuel pressure might be low). It wouldn't turn on just because the batt is connected. For that, it means, to me, that the power feed to the fuel pump is getting BATT voltage, and not IGN voltage.
If I have to upgrade the wiring, I'll have a barely used Stealth 340 pump for sale. 255 Walbro will fit the bill just fine for now.