Hows my set-up?

[94Pro-5.0]

i wont be getting a tune for another couple of months. dont have the money yet, tunes are expensive!

i have considered a custom grind, and will look into it. but that is twice as much as the stage II. still, i will call and talk to them about it when the time comes.

 

[Paul]

Based on those modifications, I would put the car at around 270-290 rwhp, and that would be with a good tune. Of course, comparing dyno numbers is a bit apples-to-oranges since dynos all read differently. Only the most aggressive 306s I've seen have broken 350 rwhp. And by aggressive, I mean 11:1 CR, ported heads, custom cam, longtubes, full exhaust, etc etc.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

makes me kinda hate our cars. i consider my car to be heavily modded, and to not have 350 hp with everything really sucks

 

[94Pro-5.0]

how can i find out the compression ratio of my motor? when i bought my motor it already had .060 flat top pistons. did stock motors come with flat-top pistons?

 

[Paul]

Well, if you know how far down in the bore the pistons are at TDC, the compressed height of your head gaskets, and your cylinder head cc, you can use a compression calculator. Programs such as Desktop Dyno have these in them.

Paul.

 

[Downshift]

I know for a FACT he will get 300. My friend puts a little over 300 with almost the same setup... and it's not tuned.

Just because one guy makes it does not mean the next will. Someone will make 320hp and the next guy will make 290... No engine is the same. Another thing, the Trickflows seem to put down a little lower numbers than like the AFRs. I have looked at a bunch Trickflow HCI and they were just shy of 300. I would agree with Paul here, probably looking at slightly under 300.

You can't look at it too bad man. I mean the Camaros had more cubes and the Cobras and machs have FI and/or 4 valves. Im not sure why you are worried about the numbers though. I mean if you were barely losing to some and beating others than getting 50-70hp more from the HCI will just make you run even faster. The 50-70hp gain is correct, just not even close to making 400hp.

 

[2slo95fiveoh]

I know for a FACT he will get 300. My friend puts a little over 300 with almost the same setup... and it's not tuned.

Just because one guy makes it does not mean the next will. Someone will make 320hp and the next guy will make 290... No engine is the same. Another thing, the Trickflows seem to put down a little lower numbers than like the AFRs. I have looked at a bunch Trickflow HCI and they were just shy of 300. I would agree with Paul here, probably looking at slightly under 300.

You can't look at it too bad man. I mean the Camaros had more cubes and the Cobras and machs have FI and/or 4 valves. Im not sure why you are worried about the numbers though. I mean if you were barely losing to some and beating others than getting 50-70hp more from the HCI will just make you run even faster. The 50-70hp gain is correct, just not even close to making 400hp.


+1.. when i got my car tuned, i was talking to the tuner, and he said that he gets a TON of mustang guys with
302's, bolt ons out the wazzou.. and put down slightly over 300, and think their combo is a 350+ rwhp capable
motor.. just look at 5.0 mustang and super fords cobra project. it was a bolt on 347 and it put down 340rwhp.
i would say either go big cubes, or slap a blower on your current combo to see your 400+ rwhp goal.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

well i'll deal with the sub 400hp for now.

come fall, i'll have my 400+ hp Stroked Windsor! I'm halfway there. I have the heads, block and upper intake lol. Just need a ton of machine work, stroker kit and all of the other odds and ends.

 

[Downshift]

well i'll deal with the sub 400hp for now.

come fall, i'll have my 400+ hp Stroked Windsor! I'm halfway there. I have the heads, block and upper intake lol. Just need a ton of machine work, stroker kit and all of the other odds and ends.

Well thats just around the corner and now you have a fresh motor with better heads and cam. By the time you get used to the power and are ready for more you will have the stroker. Sounds like a good plan to me. After I get my HCI on it will be the last thing I do to my stang for around a year. Hopefully I will be able to do my stroker by then.

 

[Paul]

come fall, i'll have my 400+ hp Stroked Windsor! I'm halfway there. I have the heads, block and upper intake lol. Just need a ton of machine work, stroker kit and all of the other odds and ends.

418 (4.030 x 4.1000)
AFR205s or 225s
FTI Cam
TFS-R

There's your combo.

400 rwhp n/a is much harder than lots of folks think.

Paul.

 

[Trickflow.GT]

Hey paul do you use a standalone or a tuned stock computer with your 418w?

 

[94Pro-5.0]

hopefully i can have it going near fall. if my finances go as planned and i get what i want for my mach 1, it will happen

Hey paul do you use a standalone or a tuned stock computer with your 418w?

also paul, do you mind posting a couple of pics and specs to your 418?

 

[Paul]

I used to use a tuned stock T4M0, but then switched to an AEM. If I had it to do over again, I'd go straight to a FAST XFI.

My old 418 (if memory serves) was:
Forged 4340 Nitrided 4.100" SCAT Crank
Forged 4340 Eagle H-Beams, 6.200"
Ross custom piston - 9.8:1 CR
Ported TFS TW Heads
Ported Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF
Lunati 51018, (.536"/.536", 218/228, 114) (that's very small for such a big motor)
Shorty headers, stock h-pipe (really), 2.5" catback

347rwhp/442rwtq n/a
467rwhp/615rwtq 150 shot
12.88 @ 111mph on 275 kumhos, absolutely full weight (3680 lbs w/o me), no spray


The new motor (422) is a bit more aggressive:
SCAT Forged 4340 Nitrided Crank
Oliver Billet 6.200" Rods
Ross Custom Pistons, 8.8:1 CR
Brodix M2 Track 1 CNC heads
TFS-R Intake, 90mm Accufab, no MAF
FTI Cam (.576/.569, 234/236, 114 LSA) (still pretty mild)
Accufab 1 3/4" mid-lengths with dual mandrel-bent custom stainless exhaust, cats, magnaflows

No numbers or track times. Awaiting more mods and T-trim install.

There's pictures around - just search through some of my posts.

Paul.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

wow, those sounds like amazing motors. why such mild cams though? looks like you basically mocked up your own stroker kits rather than buying a kit from say CHP or someone. any reason for that?

also, what does having no mass air flow affect? does it really change anything, or cause a check engine light?


if thats the beautifly polished motor in your silver vert, then yes, i've seen it. i think its one of the best cars in this forum

 

[Paul]

I prefer to have very driveable cars that idle nicely and are reasonably quiet. All of my cars have A/C, power steering, etc. My silver convertible still has a smog pump. I insist on streetability. Besides, once I put the T-trim on, the cam won't matter that much - I'll still make 600 ft. lbs. of torque without breathing hard.

You can only run no MAF if you have a standalone like an AEM or FAST or BigStuff3 that can run speed density. I hate MAFs.

Paul.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

i dont know a lot about tuning and stuff like that. if i have basic knowledge about cars and my dad knows a lot, would it be hard to figure out how to install and use something like FAST or AEM? a dynotune is so expensive; around $350. I'd love to be able to tune my own car.

where can you get the FAST tuner you talked about?

also, is your 422ci a stock block? if so what year? the block i'll be using is a 69 block

 

[94GTcobra]

Just go CARBURATED!!!! and forget about all the problems.

 

[Paul]

A FAST, AEM, or similar is several thousand dollars once you include all the stuff you need like wideband controllers, O2 sensors, AFR Gauge, MAP sensor, etc...

Just Google FAST XFI for some more information.

My block is a production block - the 69s are the strongest ones, but they have a slightly shorter deck height than the later blocks. Something to consider when getting pistons and evaluating compression ratio.

Paul.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

cool, thanks


what do you think about the cheaper tweecer or megasquirt kits?

 

[Mr. OAM]

94Pro, to answer your question, you would need more compression and a longer duration cam to get closer to 400 HP, plus also some good porting on the heads. That much power in a 302/308 is kind of radical. The big thing used to be to get 1 HP per cubic inch. This was the goal for a high performance street engine.

Of course if you did build this engine for 400 HP you would need steeper rear gears and a higher stall converter if automatic. It would not be very fun in city driving and would drink a lot of gas.

Paul's got the idea on "streetable" power. The cam he used in the first build-up is very mild, as he said, for an engine that size but is a contributing factor to the amount of torque it made across a wider RPM range.

If you want 400 HP or more go with more cubes first, if looking for something for the street.


Steve