Madd Motorsports 1975 S30 Datsun 280z. Infusion Build

[Frank.JD.Perez]

put in a racing rotary engine. thatll get ya up there

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

Vk56

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[B.mad]

Uh oh, I think I effed you up. By AFM, you are referring to the means by which air coming into the engine is measured? In other words, a variation on a MAF? If so, that is not what I was talking about, totally my bad. I was referring to a wideband specifically. I have seen them referred to as AFM's before. I was *not* talking about the sensor that measures incoming air to the engine. What I said previously still stands for widebands and the way MS works.

Now, talking about AFM/MAF style metering, you *can* program MS to work with them. But it can be tricky. MS can work with Ford style MAFs. However, you should consider SD (Speed Density) if you go MS. For example, when using the MSPNP Gen2 on the Mustang, which is a plug-and-play solution, one is supposed to ditch the MAF and use SD. So unless you are married to the idea of running a AFM, I would just go speed density and be done with it. You won't run into issues with SD unless you are running a huge cam and have no vacuum at idle. In which case, you could use Alpha-N for lower RPM's, then table switch to SD for higher RPMs.

I have "used" BE in the past - by used I mean I had a QH, I purchased BE and the Analyzer apps, I had things hooked up and went through tables and stuff, did tons of research and reading, even bought a tuning manual. I have not yet installed MS but have done my research - to me, and it's just my opinion, MS is *way* easier to tune with. BE has a super steep learning curve because you have to learn all the weird terms that the factory PCM uses. Once you learn it, then things get easier. And the benefit is you can leverage all the work and research the factory did. With MS, there is still a learning curve obviously, but things are more intuitive. The downside is you are starting from "scratch." And lastly, the biggest deciding factor for me, is the support for MS is way better than BE. Good luck getting BE to run on a Windows 10 machine right now. MS is actively being improved. Is BE? I'm not saying anything is wrong with BE, so please don't anyone jump down my throat. BE is fine, and there are some very skilled people with it that can do some amazing things with it. All I'm saying is that for someone just getting started with this stuff, I believe MS will be easier to pick up, learn, and become effective with in a shorter amount of time than BE.

Hmmm. i gotta look into that. Now, i am unsure if you answered this, but is it possible to make a SD for another manufacture work?

 

[B.mad]

Less talk, moar pics!!!!!


This message courtesy of crapatalk!

soon

 

[B.mad]

And the motor is......

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

So far it has the L28 EFI. Don't know yet what the plans are to be exactly.

 

[B.mad]

put in a racing rotary engine. thatll get ya up there

Hahah that was an option. a 20B 3 rotor.

 

[B.mad]

Vk56

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

That is very much an option as well.

Right now, its either a built L28, 20b rotary, Vk56, LS1, VQ37VHR, RB25 or 26.

 

[B.mad]

 

[g36 monkey]

Yay spaghetti!

 

[ttocs]

as a former stereo installer I have seen more then my share of wire mess monsters but yours looks like it found a mate, and went to town. I mean that is the brady bunch version of a wire monster.... color me impressed.

 

[mcglsr2]

Hmmm. i gotta look into that. Now, i am unsure if you answered this, but is it possible to make a SD for another manufacture work?

A SD or Speed Density setup does not use any kind of air meter, thus it's not a "manufacture-specific" thing. Rather, SD works off measuring the following: air intake temperature and manifold pressure. Using those, in addition to some other existing inputs and your engine's VE, the amount of fuel needed is calculated based on RPM and load and bob's your uncle. In fact, you can completely ditch the MAF. Speed Density will work on any car that has an IAT, MAP, and some other stuff like RPM/TPS, etc. In fact, you can buy a GM IAT and GM MAP, and pretty much use those on any car, and just wire it into the MS.

The only trouble one might have with SD is that, at idle, it is quite sensitive to manifold vacuum (since it needs the MAP signal to dictate fuel load). If there isn't much a vacuum signal at idle, the car might be harder to tune at that RPM - meaning you might get a hunting idle. So cars with big cams that don't have much vacuum at idle are harder to tune with SD - but there are ways around this if necessary.

If you have a car with a different engine, no idea what MAF/Air Meter to use, has been boosted, modified, larger injectors, etc. then SD is a great way to go.


And I love those pics by the way. That's so exciting to see a car like that in that state and get the opportunity to work on it and "bring it back." On top of that, it's such a cool car.

 

[B.mad]

A SD or Speed Density setup does not use any kind of air meter, thus it's not a "manufacture-specific" thing. Rather, SD works off measuring the following: air intake temperature and manifold pressure. Using those, in addition to some other existing inputs and your engine's VE, the amount of fuel needed is calculated based on RPM and load and bob's your uncle. In fact, you can completely ditch the MAF. Speed Density will work on any car that has an IAT, MAP, and some other stuff like RPM/TPS, etc. In fact, you can buy a GM IAT and GM MAP, and pretty much use those on any car, and just wire it into the MS.

The only trouble one might have with SD is that, at idle, it is quite sensitive to manifold vacuum (since it needs the MAP signal to dictate fuel load). If there isn't much a vacuum signal at idle, the car might be harder to tune at that RPM - meaning you might get a hunting idle. So cars with big cams that don't have much vacuum at idle are harder to tune with SD - but there are ways around this if necessary.

If you have a car with a different engine, no idea what MAF/Air Meter to use, has been boosted, modified, larger injectors, etc. then SD is a great way to go.


And I love those pics by the way. That's so exciting to see a car like that in that state and get the opportunity to work on it and "bring it back." On top of that, it's such a cool car.

I am going to have to consult you when the time comes haha.

Its going to be a fun project indeed.

 

[mcglsr2]

I am going to have to consult you when the time comes haha.

Its going to be a fun project indeed.

I don't profess to be an expert, but I will help however I can!

 

[B.mad]

So, we are in the market for frame rails and turns out an acquaintance has some MSA floor pans with the frame rails welded in. Which means, we are going to put them up! I got a welder, so i am practicing and can hopefully get the car in my garage soon and take it apart and start the build.

 

[g36 monkey]

YES!

 

[B.mad]

Adding parts to the stock pile. Here you see MSA floor pans with frame rails tacked on. Needs some love from the sander and sparks from the welder.

 

[B.mad]

She bought a MOMO hub adapter and decided to mate it with the Sparco quick release and Nardi wheel for some pictures.

 

[g36 monkey]

How's it feel?

 

[B.mad]

How's it feel?

Haven't installed it to the car yet. IMO, the steering wheel is a little big in diameter and small on the grips. She bought this steering wheel about a year ago. That was before she wanted to track the car. Now she might end up with a smaller diameter wheel, with leather, alcantara, or suede grips.

 

[ttocs]

So, we are in the market for frame rails and turns out an acquaintance has some MSA floor pans with the frame rails welded in. Which means, we are going to put them up! I got a welder, so i am practicing and can hopefully get the car in my garage soon and take it apart and start the build.

I keep scrap metal just so I can practice a little and mess some stuff up before I get the settings and figure out how fast to move and move on to the good stuff.