I keep scrap metal just so I can practice a little and mess some stuff up before I get the settings and figure out how fast to move and move on to the good stuff.
Good times And if you can spare the coin, maybe a Rocket Bunny kit
I'd keep that wheel honestly. Looks sick and the bigger diameter will be a huge plus in the car, especially if you keep the l28 in it. I put a smaller wheel in my 280z and low speed maneuvers became annoying with the amount of effort it takes to turn the tires with that heavy straight six sitting right over the rack.
Interesting, i would think it was the opposite? I think she is looking to properly refurbish the wheel with a mahogany-like finish and keep it for shows.
Think of the mechanism to turn a non power steering car as the torque applied to the steering wheel. Where torque depends on the magnitude of force and the length or the lever arm. The lever arm in this case is the wheel and since the force is applied 90 degrees to the center of the wheel you can ignore the angular term. So to get more torque to turn the wheel you either have to increase the force or make the wheel diameter larger so if you put a small wheel on it will take more force to apply the same torque to turn the front wheels.
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Think of the mechanism to turn a non power steering car as the torque applied to the steering wheel. Where torque depends on the magnitude of force and the length or the lever arm. The lever arm in this case is the wheel and since the force is applied 90 degrees to the center of the wheel you can ignore the angular term. So to get more torque to turn the wheel you either have to increase the force or make the wheel diameter larger so if you put a small wheel on it will take more force to apply the same torque to turn the front wheels.
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What you said is all true. And really, it all depends on the application. For racing, typically, driving with a larger diameter wheel can be uncomfortable, and you end up with the issue of having to move the wheel too much to initiate turn-in, etc. Another way to approach this is with the steering rack: if the current steering rack proves too difficult and requires a larger diameter wheel, then swap out the rack for one with a more favorable ratio. Make the rack do the work, not your hands. Granted, with a smaller wheel, it will still be somewhat harder to turn the wheel, sure, but you can get more wheel movement for the smaller turn, thus ending up with a smaller wheel *and* good turn-in.
Of course, if the car isn't going to be tracked, then rock whatever steering wheel floats your boat. Diameter doesn't really matter so much.
And, as a for-reference, my parent's 69 Dodge Dart GTS has manual steering, and a 383 sitting over the rack.....and my mom used to drive it. She may have b1tched about it (I honestly don't know) - but she drove it. Food for thought. It has a smaller diameter Grant wheel on it, not the stock (she drove it with both wheels).
You're 100% right that the application is everything when picking the wheel. I should have mentioned that the reference to torque needed to rotate the wheel is for a static car. Once it's moving even at relatively slow speed the steering wheel will be pretty easy to turn. So if you're wanting to race a bit and are willing to give up a little parking lot maneuver convenience then smaller steering wheel may be the ticket.
A 383 dart would be sick. Do your folks still have it?
2JZ?.........So far it has the L28 EFI. Don't know yet what the plans are to be exactly.
2JZ?.........
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Lol too much power. We are thinking about 400rwhp with a redline of 8000.Well it isn't going to sound like a pushrod 5.0.....but it can sound like 1000+hp
But even the factory one can be built to handle a good amount of power.
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A 2JZ would be pretty sweet. 400 hp in that car would be a lot of fun.
where the updates at brandon?