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800$$$ for a pi motor????? seriously???
MC Needs your advice!!!
- Thread starter MustangChris
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Mystic SVT
Active Member
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- May 7, 2010
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They didn't use them anymore because they needed intake cams that would provide more midrange torque since the 4.6 is already a small V8 and torque in n/a form is low as it is. Plus, ford didn't see the need to have different spec cams for different vehicles instead of just using one grind for the mach, cobra, marauder, navigator, and aviator.
I wouldn't buy any shortblock from MMR, money wasted there. I have a few friends that have gotten shortblocks/longblocks from them and lets just say I will never ever buy their engines...ever!
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i too have heard (mostly) poor reviews about MMR.
chris91
Well-Known Member
Yep and anything under that is usually a very high mileage pos. That's why I went the route I did and I only spent an extra grand and got 1800 dollar heads and 700 dollar cams with a 8k mile shortblock. Had to drive three hours but was well worth it in the long run. Plus I rented a new f150 with the eco-boost. VERY fun truck. LoL
Yeah stay far away from mmr. Quite frankly I'd stay away from any mail order engine builder. I mean what happens if you have some sort of failure, are they going to pay for shipping, etc.? There has to be a well known shop in your area that builds engines. We are lucky here in Ohio. We have a shop called Bischoff Engine Services (BES). They are top notch. I honestly can't see a rebuild costing as much as a new longblock though...
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so... testing the valves.....?
FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/3409384669.html
k member and trans even...start swap on friday be driving on sunday....
k member and trans even...start swap on friday be driving on sunday....
FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
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gross.
so, can will a compression and leakdown test determine a faulty valve?
its not burning oil, so me-thinks thats would be the prime suspect if it failed the tests.
so, can will a compression and leakdown test determine a faulty valve?
its not burning oil, so me-thinks thats would be the prime suspect if it failed the tests.
greenscobie86
Well-Known Member
Ummmm.. IMO this thread is derailed out of control lol.
1) Take car to a shop and have them do a compression/leakdown/diagnostics.
2) Once car is a diagnosed get quote.
3) repair car if quote is satisfactory and within your budget.
4) Drive car and enjoy it.
Im sorry to be rude but I feel like I'm getting ADD reading this whole thread lol. Stop dreaming about 96-98 Cobra cams and Clist PI motors. You JUST dropped a fairly laborious and extensive Termi swap into your car. Now its broken... Focus on fixing the motor and finding the root issue. You might have dropped a valve guide or something simple like that, and you're a head rebuild away from enjoying a NICE/CLEAN/THOROUGH car that you built with your own hands(according to your build thread.) So instead of going with these grandiose plans of reworking the entire motor so that your car is going to be down for years on end, FIX whats broken on an already stout car that you've built and go ROMP on it. And post some vids for ****s sake lol...
1) Take car to a shop and have them do a compression/leakdown/diagnostics.
2) Once car is a diagnosed get quote.
3) repair car if quote is satisfactory and within your budget.
4) Drive car and enjoy it.
Im sorry to be rude but I feel like I'm getting ADD reading this whole thread lol. Stop dreaming about 96-98 Cobra cams and Clist PI motors. You JUST dropped a fairly laborious and extensive Termi swap into your car. Now its broken... Focus on fixing the motor and finding the root issue. You might have dropped a valve guide or something simple like that, and you're a head rebuild away from enjoying a NICE/CLEAN/THOROUGH car that you built with your own hands(according to your build thread.) So instead of going with these grandiose plans of reworking the entire motor so that your car is going to be down for years on end, FIX whats broken on an already stout car that you've built and go ROMP on it. And post some vids for ****s sake lol...
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oh. theres no PI motor involved. I'm just downright SHOCKED that someone would spend $800.00 on one. I GAVE my NPI away because I couldnt sell it. $300.00 for PI H/C/I and bam, higher compression at less than half the price.....
not going from 500 HP to 220... .. lol.
as for the rest of your post, "my hands" turned into "our hands" once external bracing was needed. lol. but yes, still hand built - with love.
And I agree with your suggestion of ditching the plans for "grandiose plans" -- but its always **ALWAYS** important to look at every option available to you.
In this case, you mention it could be a head problem (which my uncle thought it was). I also admit i had an exhaust problem which could be a valve problem. If I'm removing the heads for re-work, I might as well do a 96-98 cam swap, right?
if that's the case, i need to learn as much as i can about it before spending time and money on it.
I agree that I should have it diagnosed, but since its not driveable, I'd like to do as much of the diagnostics work as possible.
which would be why i asked (twice in this ADD thread. LOL) about a compression leakdown test.
Finally, as for the videos. I have posted videos of it. One of which had 100+ views and 0 responses. . .. im unloved. :-(
not going from 500 HP to 220... .. lol.
as for the rest of your post, "my hands" turned into "our hands" once external bracing was needed. lol. but yes, still hand built - with love.
And I agree with your suggestion of ditching the plans for "grandiose plans" -- but its always **ALWAYS** important to look at every option available to you.
In this case, you mention it could be a head problem (which my uncle thought it was). I also admit i had an exhaust problem which could be a valve problem. If I'm removing the heads for re-work, I might as well do a 96-98 cam swap, right?
if that's the case, i need to learn as much as i can about it before spending time and money on it.I agree that I should have it diagnosed, but since its not driveable, I'd like to do as much of the diagnostics work as possible.
which would be why i asked (twice in this ADD thread. LOL) about a compression leakdown test.
Finally, as for the videos. I have posted videos of it. One of which had 100+ views and 0 responses. . .. im unloved. :-(
greenscobie86
Well-Known Member
Well Im sorry, I was out of line. You seem to have your bases covered.
I guess I was just thinking out loud...
Get that mother****er fixed and go have fun lol.
I guess I was just thinking out loud...
Get that mother****er fixed and go have fun lol.
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lol. no worries man. i didnt take offence to anything you said...
I know you're a good guy, so I knew you werent trying to stick-in-the-mud .. ..
if you have any input on the compression/leakdown tests, i'd love to hear it! thats where im trying to aim this thread now. lol.
I know you're a good guy, so I knew you werent trying to stick-in-the-mud .. ..
if you have any input on the compression/leakdown tests, i'd love to hear it! thats where im trying to aim this thread now. lol.
chris91
Well-Known Member
I would do both a compression and leakdown test. With the leakdown test, if you have a bad valve youll hear the air getting past the valve. Either in the intake or the exhaust. Just have to listen to be sure where its coming from.
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maybe ill do a write up for the forum.
KillNThrill24
Legend
Chris.... Um Chris91 haha would you be so kind as to post a link for Bischoff? I've never heard of them and was actually gonna get an MMR myself some time down the road but if they're garbage.. Well fok that lol.
Big Cheese Chris I have to agree that your best bet would be to run both compression and leak down tests. It never ever hurts to run multiple tests before you make a decision on what the problem is ya know?
Big Cheese Chris I have to agree that your best bet would be to run both compression and leak down tests. It never ever hurts to run multiple tests before you make a decision on what the problem is ya know?
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i hear ya. .. .. never done a leakdown test. been a while since ive done a compression test.... *sigh* lol.
KillNThrill24
Legend
To be honest I haven't done either myself lol but hey you got alllll winter to do em both! Just do them when you feel like it man don't get too wrapped up thinking you gotta get it done when really, you've got months to get it done lol. I know I'm that way that I gotta do it and gotta do it now. But shoot I'm taking my good old time tearing my motor down. I've got the front bumper off (for heat exchanger), wheels off, and that's it, lol. So take your time man don't get all overwhelmed That's just my .02
Just make sure you get it done before February and have some money saved up to pay for shit you need and you'll have it back on the road by March!
Just make sure you get it done before February and have some money saved up to pay for shit you need and you'll have it back on the road by March!
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march???? lol. it snows until April here in Denver. lol. May sometimes.
chris91
Well-Known Member
They are REALLY far from you up there in Cleveland. WELL worth it though in the long run. They have built some of the baddest cars in the land.
http://www.besracing.com/
KillNThrill24
Legend
Haha same here man but shoot for March that way if you finish late, it'll still be snowin lol
They are REALLY far from you up there in Cleveland. WELL worth it though in the long run. They have built some of the baddest cars in the land.
http://www.besracing.com/
Ahh I traveled the country by truck and trailer this summer, a 3hr or so drive to Indi isn't squat. I drove to Columbus and back twice in 1 day and didn't phase me a bit. I guess I'd have to email them or something because I see block work but I don't see anything about installing upgraded internals which is really what I'd need done when the time comes. Thanks tho I'll be sure to bookmark them!
