Put the stock tune back on and see what happens.
Misfiring issues
- Thread starter joshuaw3
- Start date
^ It's going to run like shit if you put the stock tune back on, and the EGR functions are enabled, but the EGR system is gone.
I did what you said to do. I switched it to a different tune so I'm going to see if that does anything
It goes without saying, that since you removed the EGR system, you'd have to deactivate those functions in your stock tune... or if you don't want to modify the tune, you need put the EGR components back on the car. You should have just left them on there in the first place since removing the EGR provides zero benefits other than a cleaner engine bay. That's it.
Well the egr tube connection was broken the threads in the connector were completely stripped out and I couldn't get it to stay on so I took it off. I would love to put it back on but I'm tired of spending money on it. Next car I get I'm getting any upgrades professionally done at least tuning wise. All I want now is for this car to be a good daily driver and not have any more issues.
The mail order tunes from bama are notorious for causing problems. Some people have had good experiences with them, but probably equally as many (if not more) have reported issues. For the money you spent on that, you should have just had the car dyno tuned at a shop.
Okay. Good luck.
Have you noticed if your oil a milky or creamy color? Does the exhaust have a "sweet" smell to it?
That's your passenger (right) side, front sensor.
At this point, you may want to have a shop look at the car.
I did have a shop look like week one they found the coil pack was messed up but it didnt fix the problem then they spent 4 hours trying to figure it out and they couldn't. Ill probably just take it to ford at some point
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
Compression test and leak down test?
Just curious .
Also you bought a sensor for the drivere side? switch it out for the passenger side see what happens
THE D3V
Just curious .
Also you bought a sensor for the drivere side? switch it out for the passenger side see what happens
THE D3V
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
Its just a good diagnostic tool .... leak down will require a compressor
THE D3V
THE D3V
ster302
Member
I've just read this whole thread and I'm a little confused, Let me try to get some of these things straight. You've have bank 1 throwing misfires on all cylinders and two codes indicating a rich condition on that bank. Now you've obviously found some damaged/bad parts and replaced most of them right? The problem I see is the re-occurring rich codes. Did you check the injectors? If one or more is failing it will effect the O2 on that bank, obviously. The way you describe the symptoms and when they're occurring is making me think a injector is failing mechanically or electrically. Ford service information states that both of the rich codes you have are more likely a result of a condition than a indication the O2 failing. How does the engine run otherwise? Idle smooth? Does it Rev okay when not under load? Another thing to check is if a injector is leaking, hook up a fuel pressure gauge and turn the key to prime the system, watch pressure drop on the gauge. I don't have the spec in front of me for psi vs time but if holds pretty steady for say 5-10 mins than you're probably okay on leak down. If it doesn't hold than any of these three things could be happening leaking injector, failing FPR, and/or failing fuel pump check valve. Dripping injectors can be found by removing the fuel rail and priming the system, watch for leaks. I do drivability diagnostics every day at work so I know how frustrating things like this can be. Good luck.
