My 70 dollar Heat Extractor Hood

94 DropTop

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Looks great. Hope I can actually get mine to paint before school starts. Mine is purely for looks unlike yours.
 

OnyxCobra

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Say you did mount the scoop higher, by the cowl panel. Technically if it's sucking air in wouldn't the hot air just be going out the bottom instead of the top? I know air goes in my cowl but it has to be going somewhere. Does it make a difference?
 
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ReplicaR

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Front end lift, and more underhood turbulence causing reduction in cooling.
 
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ReplicaR

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The faster you go, the more pressure is generated, the more air gets sucked in. Its really not a crazy amount, considering that mustangs cool like shit and generate lift anyway. I would not be too worried about it. It was just funny that there was a thread on here, where people were tryin to make their cowl induction hoods functional. Last I checked none of them are running cowl induction haha
 
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ReplicaR

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Isn't the rear of the factory 95R cowl hood closed off? If I remember correctly, they did that cowl hood mostly to clear the 351, no?
 

OnyxCobra

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no, it's open. the cut out is only on the drivers side though.

Underside.jpg
 
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ReplicaR

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Hmm, does that go all the way through? Is the rear of the cowl actually open?
 
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ReplicaR

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Well, I guess you can always close it off. Its definitely not to any of your advantage, unless you are running a carb for some reason
 
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ReplicaR

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Leave the cooling to heat exchangers. Try putting tape over the vent and see what the car runs like. Do you have an actual coolant and oil temp gauges?
 

OnyxCobra

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I don't, but the car runs nice and cool as far as the coolant goes. There are no heat exchangers for 5.0 KBs unless you custom make something. I have meth injection for it but I've run into a snag on the install.
 
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ReplicaR

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Heat exchangers are anything from radiator, to oil cooler, to heater core to whatever. What I'm saying is, if it's running fine, then keep it. You can't test it anyway, factory gauges are not accurate enough. The cowl induction hood definitely does not help cooling at speeds though, that's a pretty common knowledge.
 
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ReplicaR

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Well, when I said that it's pretty common knowledge, it's pretty common among people who actually read tech articles, and books on how stuff works. As you've seen in that thread about the functional cowl hoods, people on this board for the most part believe that it will actually vent out at speed. Simple matter of fact is cowl and windshield are high pressure zones. Area behind the cowl induction hood, is a negative pressure zone, because it sees very little air flow there. So, as the air pressure on cowl increases, air will move anywhere where pressure is less, which includes over the windshield, to the side of windshield, and right under the cowl induction hood, because that's a low pressure area as well.

Why do these people seek to open that area up, when there is nothing to be gained at all, I have no clue. They are definitely wrong thinking that it will help with cooling of the car. Some of the manufacturers who produce these hoods either follow the original formula of cowl induction systems of the old, regardless of whether the car is using a carb or not, or they just simply copy other people with out any thought to it, because who cares what the part does, as long as it looks cool and it sells, right? I've spoken to some hood manufacturers, who had produces supposedly a heat extractor hood, who could not even answer a simple question of where the vent is, and why it's placed there. To them it's just holes.
 

OnyxCobra

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Yeah I can see that. I guess I don't understand how it wouldn't help cool underhood temps when you're getting extra air under the hood.
 
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ReplicaR

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I'll explain it again. Fluid cooling is a much more efficient way to bring down temperatures. If that would not be the case, all engines would be exposed from factory, so they would be cooled by the air passing through them. A slight breeze of air will only go as far as blowing some air over surface, which will do absolutely nothing to cool the internals. That's what oil and water are for. If you want to keep the cooling at it's most efficient, then the air is supposed to move right through the heat exchanger (radiator, oil cooler, intercooler, etc.), and get out of the car. The most efficient way to do that is to have a radiator in a tunnel, so it gets all of the air from the front bumper, and expels all of it right out into the open space, preferably some place where it does not get trapped. This is how most race cars work, where the air goes right out of the heat extractor hood, and no part of it actually enters the engine compartment.

What you are suggesting is air entering from the rear of the engine bay, and then causing disruption to the flow from the radiator. If you slow that air down, you are reducing the cooling effect of the radiator, because now it does not flow as freely. If you pay attention to even some of the older cowl induction hoods from the 60s, most of the factory setups had the cowl vent blocked off so the air would only go as far as feeding the carb, but never actually entering the engine compartment.
 

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