My engine rebuild thread!

Daryl

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well that could be as simple as a timing problem or idunno.
I’m thinking timing,too. Upon cold startup, rpm’s vacillate between 1500- 800rpm. Very awkwardly almost like a moaning, but it doesn’t die.
Also,it seems a struggle to get the engine to turnover when starting it up. I’ll have the battery checked tomorrow at AutoZone. It had a little bit of the “crusties” on one of the posts, so I cleaned both posts off and sprayed them with a protectant. Started up a tad better after that.
 

ttocs

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Can you get a video of the startup? It should rev up a little and then drop down to the idle rpm but not go up/down after that.

now to really have a battery tested you need to remove it from the car, have it put on a charger for a while and then tested. I then recommend leaving it off the charger for as long as possible and then measuring the voltage again to confirm it has not dropped. I have seen bad batteries test as good when they hook them up in the car and also seen batteries off the charger test as good and then start to loose voltage with nothing connected.
 

Daryl

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1E3D97FE-D730-4D38-A3A8-25D8E60AEB29.jpeg More great news, this time regarding my earlier mention of Speedo/odo/cruise control not working. I replaced the worm and driven gear. Everything went well on the R&R as I diligently and obediently followed LMR’s video tutorial. Put it all back together. Felt good about it.
Drove the car... and NOTHING!
Zippo. Zilch. Bumpkiss. Nada.
Really thought I was on to something as, based on the photo, the old worm gear is broken off shorter than the new. Hoping I don’t need a wholesale replacement of the gauge cluster.
 

Daryl

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More great news, this time regarding my earlier mention of Speedo/odo/cruise control not working. I replaced the worm and driven gear. Everything went well on the R&R as I diligently and obediently followed LMR’s video tutorial. Put it all back together. Felt good about it.
Drove the car... and NOTHING!
Zippo. Zilch. Bumpkiss. Nada.
Really thought I was on to something as, based on the photo, the old worm gear is broken off shorter than the new. Hoping I don’t need a wholesale replacement of the gauge cluster.

Waitaminute.... If "He ran them til they were red hot...."???
That’s a quote
 
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Wmac

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Daryl:
Have you verified timing w/timing light? Should be 10*btdc hot idle, spout out.
Then rev engine and note timing.

Can you show f/p with the video? With vacuum & with vacuum plugged. (hot idle)

Did you install the aeromotive fpr & the gauge?
 

Tillerman77

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Daryl,
Here is a fairly current video on 5.0 builds by Richard Holdener if you haven't seen it already. As you likely know, he is the one who provided a lot of the 5.0 engine articles to Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords back in the day.
 

sluggish94

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I feel your pain man, when you don't get the number you were looking for. Best thing is to not get hung up over the number and enjoy it.
 

TrickVert

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Hey, Daryl: What did you/they use for valve springs on those heads? I k ow valve float will shut the door on power at higher RPM ( it not usually that low, though?).
 

sluggish94

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Hey, Daryl: What did you/they use for valve springs on those heads? I k ow valve float will shut the door on power at higher RPM ( it not usually that low, though?).

Valve springs shouldn’t be the issue on a brand new AFR 165 Head

What concerns me is the fact that power dropped off nasty after 4000rpm. Then the tuner recommends an H-pipe instead of a bigger fuel pump??

Like, what are those dudes doing out there at FTK? Any competent tuner knows that the most important factors are fueling and spark.

Their recommendation makes the tuner seem like a noob.
 

apsmith49921

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I'd play nice for a while to get answers and if not... it's time to go full karen. Like others said I'm no expert but that's not right. It's making a good bit of power up until that point and dies. It's in the fuel or spark my guess is your stock 25yr old fuel pump is on its last leg.

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ttocs

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I agree and I am just concerned why the tuner would not see the pump was not keeping up and that that have the opportunity to sell him something else. Unless they were just ready to send the car on and move on to the next since replacing it would have meant another dyno session that they didn't want to mess with. It would be easy enough to test their theory by putting an off road pipe on it if you can get one.
 

Daryl

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Not sure if it’s the stock, 25yr old fuel pump or not. I got ZERO info from previous owner when I bought it, but based on what I know and the feeling I got from him, he didn’t do anything to the car. So, I would venture to say there’s a fair chance it’s the stock fuel pump. It does have a fuel regulator (that red thing, right?) and like I mentioned, 42lb injectors are new.

At this point, I’m down for a new fuel pump if that’s part of the equation to the solution. Or, pretty much anything else that needs to happen to make this better.
 

ttocs

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it can't hurt your situation but I am not sure that it would not need another trip to the dyno to modify the tune to get the power back.
 

Daryl

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it can't hurt your situation but I am not sure that it would not need another trip to the dyno to modify the tune to get the power back.
Definitely would need another trip to a tuner. Only way to get it all truly dialed in.
Any suggestions on the fuel pump?
 

ttocs

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the question is do you use the same tuner this time? Aeromotive makes some that mount right in the factory hanger. Don't forget to order a filler neck seal as they tend to rip when you pull it out of the tank to drop it.
 

apsmith49921

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Definitely would need another trip to a tuner. Only way to get it all truly dialed in.
Any suggestions on the fuel pump?
Just a walboro 255 should be plenty. Stockers are like 150lph

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TrickVert

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The OEM pump is 110 LPH. Given the capabilities of a 347, I'd say that's probably not enough. The trouble is, any tuner worth his salt should have seen (and told you) the fuel was running out during tuning.

Here's one calculator you can play with: https://raceworks.com.au/calculators/fuel-pump-calculator/

There have got to be other people who have run a combo similar to yours, if not here, certainly on the Corral. Have you been able to determine what some "typical" results have been from other builds? If nothing else, perhaps call fordstrokers.com with a "What if I used these heads, this cam, this intake? What should I expect out of a 347?" question. They'd probably even suggest injector and pump size.
 

joemomma

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FWIW, the 347 crate motors I've seen advertised are anywhere from 370 - 430 flywheel, so Daryl should be somewhere close in that ballpark with his combo. I think the Blueprint I was looking at is 415, and that's nothing crazy. I imagine some of the beefier offerings from Coast would be higher.
 

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