OLD FARTS "It never ends"

OLD H2S · Jul 2, 2017

So I did the first oil change at 500 miles and put is some syn.5-20 and have 250 on that now and it was in the car for the 12 dyno pulls.
After pull 6 I heard a lifter tick and it was loud at idle but was gone by 3000 RPM. So in the last 2 days I have had 2 good engine builders listen and the answer is "you're going to have to take a look". Next I did a compression test to see if anything showed up, nope, 145 PSI in all 8 cylinders. I took off the passenger valve cover for inspection and the last exhaust lifter was a little lower than the rest. I pulled it and I had a .012 shim on the bottom. I cleaned the lifter out and it was nice and "squishy" so I filled it up with some 90wt. and added a .004 shim to the bottom to bring it up a little and put everything back together and the ticking is gone for now? IIRC this exhaust valve seat had the most damage to it and was sunk a total of .013 by the time it cleaned up but was still in spec by.002 so this was the reason I took the heads in to be checked after I finished them and the pro builders said it was good enough. I am not pissed in any way at anyone, the worst valve out of 16 started to make noise after being beat on and I think I will switch to the new oil for Mustangs from Amsoil that is a 0-50 viscosity. I wife was impressed I could do a teardown and repair so fast, I explained that it is a new engine and none of the fasteners had frozen in place yet.

OLD H2S · Jul 3, 2017

Motor is toast...junk in the heads I did not get out has clogged the tappets and rest of the engine so bearings are on order. Now I get to play pit crew and see how fast I can do a teardown and rebuild.
There is never time to do it right but there is always time to do it twice. ( some old fart )

lwarrior1016 · Jul 3, 2017

Oh man, that really sucks. I'm sorry to hear that. I remember seeing all the junk that was in those heads and because of that, it made me tear mine all the way down and wash them half a dozen times then blow air through every passage possible. Are you doing anything different this time or just going back together with it?

ttocs · Jul 3, 2017

that sucks man.

96blak54 · Jul 3, 2017

Oh no! Fo real!

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g36 monkey · Jul 3, 2017

That sucksss

evilcw311 · Jul 3, 2017

That truly sucks!!! But as my good friend and I always say on the job, "if it's worth doing right, it's worth doing twice". Lol

I know it doesn't help but you'll find yourself saying now just to laugh at me knowing I've done stuff twice or more........ ;-)

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OLD H2S · Jul 3, 2017

My attitude is great, does not bother me at all. The motor is fresh and at most I'll have to buff up the crank and run thicker oil. Maybe this time I will soak the heads in a 5 gallon bucket of kerosene because they were nasty when I got them. It will need new bearings and lifters everything else is set up and made to be reused fast, now to find some thinner head gaskets....
Got a call into Bullet Cams today about a custom 3V cam I can run in a 2v, they did not laugh at me and understood immediately the what and why of the request so I will let you know what they say.

OLD H2S · Jul 4, 2017

Not a lot of choices for thinner head gaskets, lots of different bore diameters to choose from. I think the easiest way for me to raise the compression is to just weld up some of what I cut away.

96blak54 · Jul 4, 2017

Gotta deck the block. Then its either cometic, ford, or felpro. IIRC cometic is .030", ford is .039" and felpro crushes around .050".

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lwarrior1016 · Jul 4, 2017

I read that the 3v gaskets from Ford crutch at .031" but I can't verify that. Also, I want to make it known that 3v head gaskets will NOT work with Windsor heads. It makes an awesome coolant/oil milkshake.

OLD H2S · Jul 11, 2017

Time to get the motor out and weld up some compression! Even with 750 miles on the motor I am finding things to change as I take apart this new setup and now I am glad to be forced to do the tear down.

96blak54 · Jul 12, 2017

Glad to know you are in good spirits about it. Just know that Im cheering you on!

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lwarrior1016 · Jul 12, 2017

Could you document how you are welding up those heads? Pretty please?

Ive got some spare heads here that I want to do that with and I would really like to see what you do with yours.

OLD H2S · Jul 12, 2017

The tear down revelled that the crankshaft timing wheel that the position sensor uses for timing control was the wrong one. I used the stamped steel one and I should have used the power metal thick one. The rod bearings looked good but the mains I will replace. I will work on getting the lower end back together tomorrow and on to the heads on Friday.

96blak54 · Jul 12, 2017

That stamped steel timing wheel requires a special crank sprocket. Ill poke around, see what I got.

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OLD H2S · Jul 15, 2017

Well the motor is back together, and I tried the PM type timing wheel and it would not fit behind the

'96 timing cover so back to stamped steel for now. I might have to switch to the '05 cover and more mixed year voodoo.
Did you check out the head welding thread on the other site? Anything more you want to see?