People who have an auto with a stall..... come in

voidfinger

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ok here is the skinny... most people tell us not to get stalls because they think we have an old aod with a non lock up style torque converter...

Non lock up in a dd is a bad idea b/c it will kill city and highway milage.

Now a lock up style like we have will give us better highway milage b/c it locks under cruising rpm and "performance" ones with a tune will totally lock up at WOT that will dramaticly improve times and power.

So, with npi heads i would stay in the range of a 3200-3400 stall... they mentioned Johnny Langton on here and he has a npi headed thunderbird that runs in low 12's with bullet intake and cams with a 4k stall. With the 3200 stall the car will get a little less city milage but the same highway.

J-Mod + 1

I would go with 4.10's

check info on t/q thread i started
 
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Brian95SVT

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So a 3000 stall is still to low?
3200 then?
I don't want an outrageous stall on a stock motor. MODS ARE IN SIG just incase you were wondering what setup ahha.
so 3200 stall + J-Mod + 3.73 gears *my choice* = great improvement
 

97stanger

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I would call whoever you were planning on getting the stall from and see what rpm stall they recommend...they would know best.
 

Jrgunn5150

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That guy at AAMCO is a tool.

The trans doesn't learn anything, it's not a T1000, even though it does have some electronic controls, it won't learn poop about the "trick" you pulled on it with a Jmod. Production transmssions are built with the idea in mind that normal people don't want a harsh shift, they don't want to be able to tell it's shifting at all. SO they give up reliability in favor of comfort. The Jmod is tuneable to a degree too, you can have a nice, quick firm shift, or a bark your tires into third with NPI powah! All without any side effects, except longer trans life and a feeling of superiority over lesser poo car's.

As for the converter, the are rated within a 200 rpm range, a 3000 rpm converter behind your motor will actually stall at close to 3000. Put the same converter in say, blown97stanger's car and it will stall up around 3300 rpm. So it will adjust somewhat to your mods. And it will get you well into the 11's before it is holding you back. Actually though, more stall would be better, it's just that most people fear it, just like gear's, and any stall is better than none.

Your highway mileage will not suffer, around town will drop pretty drastically until you learn to drive around it a bit. A stall also develops more heat, which is why I suggested an extra cooler.

BTW everything I've ever owned with an auto got a stall converter in it,being able to light up the tires in a full size Blazer 4x4 with a tired ass 350 that was only rated at like 180 hp to begin with is awesome :hammer:
 

voidfinger

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true.... thats why i'm thinking 3200 stall for it.

Also since the stall hits the town mpg... the lower gear such as the 4.10 helps with city milage but hurts the highway...

thats kinda a trade off... so both come down a little with bot pieces but one isn't killed outright
 

jfor441

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J.R. said:
That guy at AAMCO is a tool.

The trans doesn't learn anything, it's not a T1000, even though it does have some electronic controls, it won't learn poop about the "trick" you pulled on it with a Jmod. Production transmssions are built with the idea in mind that normal people don't want a harsh shift, they don't want to be able to tell it's shifting at all. SO they give up reliability in favor of comfort. The Jmod is tuneable to a degree too, you can have a nice, quick firm shift, or a bark your tires into third with NPI powah! All without any side effects, except longer trans life and a feeling of superiority over lesser poo car's.

As for the converter, the are rated within a 200 rpm range, a 3000 rpm converter behind your motor will actually stall at close to 3000. Put the same converter in say, blown97stanger's car and it will stall up around 3300 rpm. So it will adjust somewhat to your mods. And it will get you well into the 11's before it is holding you back. Actually though, more stall would be better, it's just that most people fear it, just like gear's, and any stall is better than none.

Your highway mileage will not suffer, around town will drop pretty drastically until you learn to drive around it a bit. A stall also develops more heat, which is why I suggested an extra cooler.

BTW everything I've ever owned with an auto got a stall converter in it,being able to light up the tires in a full size Blazer 4x4 with a tired ass 350 that was only rated at like 180 hp to begin with is awesome :hammer:

See... told ya JR either knows his stuff or he's a good bullshitter LMAO
 

Jrgunn5150

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It's how I get my food, I like food :dancing6: Mmm delicious cube steak, lol
 
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Brian95SVT

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J.R. said:
That guy at AAMCO is a tool.

The trans doesn't learn anything, it's not a T1000, even though it does have some electronic controls, it won't learn poop about the "trick" you pulled on it with a Jmod. Production transmssions are built with the idea in mind that normal people don't want a harsh shift, they don't want to be able to tell it's shifting at all. SO they give up reliability in favor of comfort. The Jmod is tuneable to a degree too, you can have a nice, quick firm shift, or a bark your tires into third with NPI powah! All without any side effects, except longer trans life and a feeling of superiority over lesser poo car's.

As for the converter, the are rated within a 200 rpm range, a 3000 rpm converter behind your motor will actually stall at close to 3000. Put the same converter in say, blown97stanger's car and it will stall up around 3300 rpm. So it will adjust somewhat to your mods. And it will get you well into the 11's before it is holding you back. Actually though, more stall would be better, it's just that most people fear it, just like gear's, and any stall is better than none.

Your highway mileage will not suffer, around town will drop pretty drastically until you learn to drive around it a bit. A stall also develops more heat, which is why I suggested an extra cooler.

BTW everything I've ever owned with an auto got a stall converter in it,being able to light up the tires in a full size Blazer 4x4 with a tired ass 350 that was only rated at like 180 hp to begin with is awesome :hammer:


you're my new best friend hahahahahha
 
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Brian95SVT

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haha are you mad cuz you aren' my new best friend? hahahhahahahhha
i can have two, it's ok ahahhahahahahaha :hammer:
 

FASTANG

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I have a 5.0, but the rest is similar to what you are looking to do. Trans-Go shift kit, 3000 PI stall, and 3.73's.
I absolutley love it and would recommend it to anyone considering it. It made a night and day differnece when
your foot gets heavy, but for normal driving the only way to tell it's there is it feels a little soft off idle.
Any other questions, just ask :coolsmiley:
 
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Brian95SVT

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Thanks man, I'm not going to have the gears installed cuz can't currently afford to get them and install them but the JMod shift kit + 3000 stall are going in at the same time. Still gotta order them and all but yeah, I hope I like them.

Now when you are driving it, what is it like? You push on the petal and...... *fill in the rest ahha*
 

FASTANG

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my96gtstang said:
Now when you are driving it, what is it like? You push on the petal and...... *fill in the rest ahha*

The only difference is that it lets starts you in motion at a higher rpm, which means you are in the sweet
spot of the engine from the get go, (if it's matched well to your combo, of course). You could easily mistake
my 3000 for a stock stall if you weren't paying attention to it.

You won't even notice it, unless you want to. [/evilgrin]
 

voidfinger

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also you have to relize that the stock stall for a 4r70w equiped mustang is 2400 rpms so that is only a 600 rpm difference... you won't be able to tell as much of a difference compaired to an older fox body with a 3k stall in it. thats a bigger difference
 

GaryG

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subscribing so i can look at it later tonight
 

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