Well everyone, its finally starting...
Please scroll to the BOTTOM of THIS post for up-to-date instant information on the status of the build. Scan through the thread for fun pictures and documented information.
To start this thread I'm going to just post pics of my car how i got it from the dealership. And provide you with a history and then finally future plans.
More pictures will come as I futher myself in my build, but right now the only part i have is the block and its at the machine shop.
I am the proud owner of a 1996 Ford Mustang GT.
I purchased it in 2006 with 64,000 miles on it and it was CHERRY.
Now, with 140,000 miles and 3 years of abuse under its belt, its starting to cry for attention.
When I purchased the car it had the following modifications:
Mac cold air intake + Filter
FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers
Bassani Catted x-pipe
Flowmasters
Center line 16" wheels
3.55:1 Gears
Chrome Strut tower
Unknown brand of Piggyback Underdrive pulleys
FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft (some say it may have come stock)
Things I've added:
Steeda Underdrive pulleys
Steeda Idler Pulleys
Gatorback Belt
BBK Chrome Valve Covers
FRPP 03/04 Cobra Front Control Arms
BBK Standard Rate Gripp Springs
Tokico Shocks and struts
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Chrome plates
Drilled and Slotted front rotors
1999 SVT Cobra Steering Rack
Maximum Motor Sports solid motor mounts
Maximum motor sports bump steer kit
Prothayne Sway bar end links
Prothayne Bushings all around
Prothyane Spring isolators
Maximum motor sports Solid Steering Shaft
Spec Stage 2 Clutch (stock flywheel)
FRPP Heavy Duty Clutch fork
FRPP Heavy Duty Throw Out Bearing
Hurst Short Throw Shifter + White 5 spd. knob
Roush Shifter Boot
Lakewood Universal Joints
Jegs Driveshaft Safety Loop
Moser 31 spline Axles
Eaton LSD Posi Diffy
SVO 4.10:1 Gears
FRPP Rear axle Girdle
Yokohama 520 Tires
Maximum Motorsports Black Powdercoated Full Length Weld-in Sub-Frame Connectors
Steeda Ajustable Clutch Cable
Steeda Adjustable Quadrant
BBK Firewall Clutch adjuster
Next Mods:
Morosso Battery Relocation Kit
As it stands it Currently Runs 15.5 @ 89 MPH on the 1/4 Mile
It dynoed 194 RWHP and 256 RWTQ
I purchased PI Heads, PI Cams, PI Intake manifold, all accessories and gaskets to put them in, SCT Livewire to tune it; but chickened out on tearing apart "my baby." I have since sold these parts to make way for a bigger, better plan.
Stage 1:
Break the old, to justify the new~
My car was making an odd "chunk" sound at idle. My friend (and fellow SN95 member) Mikey discovered it was the poor-quality piggyback underdrive pulley on my crank shaft. The keyway on the crank had litterally dugout a part of the pulley, creating play when there was no throttle on the motor. When removing the bolt holding the pulley to the crank, many threads came out. Through installation of the new pulleys and a "Steeda Modular Timing Adjuster" we removed litterally 100% of the threads in the crankshaft. (Mikey was not present for this, but me and a couple of other buddies took care of things.) We ended up removing the radiator, the fan, and drilling out the crankshaft and placing a helicoil inside. Upon installation of the new pulley and the Timing Adjuster, things didn't sit 100%. The Timing adjuster was cockeyed, but after 4 attempts (and we were on the last [5th] helicoil in the $90.00 kit) we did not want to take the bolt out and ruin things. Gobs of lock-tight, 1 helicoil, and 1 random bolt later I had a properly running car. But due to the timing adjuster not sitting properly, it ticks and rattles. Its very embarrassing, and now its time to fix the *car* and fix it RIGHT.
Stage 2:
The Plan~
Teskid Block - 4.6 Modular based block made of Aluminum with 4 bolt mains with 2 additional side-bolts. (common on Ford Modular Motors)
Rotating Assembly - Livernoise 298 Stroker Kit. Fully forged kit complete with the same pistons and rods used in NASCAR.
Heads - 2003/2004 Ford Mustang Cobra Heads, ported, polished, rebuilt, fully re-worked by Heads By Drew here in Aurora Colorado.
Power Adder - 2.8L Kenne Bell Mammoth Blower, polished, running at 25 PSI (750+ HP on a 281 terminator cobra at 26 PSI according to their website)
clutch - Uncertain
Tranny - Fully built Viper T-56
Driveshaft - Custom carbon fiber driveshaft
3rd member - Banjo Ford 9"
suspension - Maximum Motorsports full coilover kit
body - uncertain
Stage 3:
The Build~
I took the block to the machine shop this week. He suggested doing .020 over with deck plates in place. He will clean the block, machine the block, machine the gasket surfaces, repair minor damage (an "ear" that connects the block to the transmission broke off. And he will call me when he's done with it for additional suggestions if needed.
I am currently in the process of buying the heads. I have found 3 sets that I am interested in, I just need 1 of the deals to follow through.
I am getting a bonus near the holiday in September, I will use this money to purchase the rotating assembly and to pay off my debt.
Over the next year or so I will purchase the blower and the fuel system.
after final assembly I will put the motor into the car. I will keep the stock drivetrain during break-in and for as long as possible while I drive like a normal person.
The rest of the build will come as things break. T56 will come when the T45 gives out. Ford 9" will come when the 8.8" gives out, and so on.
I hope to, in 365 days, finish this thread with a beautiful motor dropped into a beautiful car.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I want to send a special thanks to a few specific people on the forum:
Paul, for educating me into taking the cheep road whenever possible. Chrome bolts don't add horsepower, stock parts may last longer than we think, and breaking the car is half the fun.
Justin, for showing me the potential of a blower. The money I would have saved simply learning my lesson in the first place and getting boost. -Boost gets you laid-
JR, for explaining that driving your car like you stole is almost always the reason it breaks. For taking the time to educate me on transmissions and drivetrain, even in the little ways.
Hellion, for totally calling my dumb-as$ out on my misinformation and showing me its better to listen and learn than to talk and fail.
Handz, for showing me that details matter just as much as the big picture. A racing seat, a coat of wax, and some clean pics can really bring the love of cars back to a persons life.
1stof3, for reminding us all that good things come to those who wait.
Dalamar, that a car that's less than perfect is unacceptable, shoot for the stars and it will all pay off in the end.
Matt, SN95s are not a love, they are not a passion, they are not a hobby. They are an addiction... and I think you for your efforts to aid in fueling my addiction. You, and your site, has changed my life forever and the countless friends and new family I have found here will always be irreplaceable.
Mikey, for taking the time to drive across town to help me out. I know its not always easy being a teacher.
Tbuck07, for tearing into your motor and getting the job done... Giving the rest of us "beginner mechanics" courage to do the same!
Duff Daddy and Drop Top Pony, for their sound advice on the aluminum block and for selflessly doing foot-work to help me find information when I needed it.
And finally all of SN95. You guys have been my SOLE source for information regarding my car and my automotive education. I haven't hesitated to ask you guys about Buicks, Chevys, and Hondas on here either. You are all great people and you make an amazing family. I assure you more of my dumb questions will show up as I begin this build. This *is* my first motor build and I look forward to it. most people would be intimidated by it, but I'm not because I know I have unlimited knowledge at my fingertips. I am the first "gearhead" in my family, and therefore, I must get information wherever I can find it. You are all a great source for knowledge, fun, and free porn.
Now, here are some pictures of the car as I got it from the dealership. This week I will take more pictures to show off the new, lowered, look!
Many Thanks for checking out my thread, I hope you subscribe to it, and I hope you have as much fun as I do! I will keep you all posted with updates via this thread!
-MustangChris
CURRENT STATUS:
Teskid Block
-Purchased
-cleaned
-Getting bored and assembled
2003 Cobra Heads
-Purchased
-Waiting until blower purchase before paying for rebuild
2.8L
-Current Financial Goal: $4,500.00
-Current Financial Status: $400.00
Parts Bought:
Cobra Gas Tank
Cobra Timing Cover
Cobra Lower Intake
Cobra Valve Covers
Please scroll to the BOTTOM of THIS post for up-to-date instant information on the status of the build. Scan through the thread for fun pictures and documented information.
To start this thread I'm going to just post pics of my car how i got it from the dealership. And provide you with a history and then finally future plans.
More pictures will come as I futher myself in my build, but right now the only part i have is the block and its at the machine shop.
I am the proud owner of a 1996 Ford Mustang GT.
I purchased it in 2006 with 64,000 miles on it and it was CHERRY.
Now, with 140,000 miles and 3 years of abuse under its belt, its starting to cry for attention.
When I purchased the car it had the following modifications:
Mac cold air intake + Filter
FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers
Bassani Catted x-pipe
Flowmasters
Center line 16" wheels
3.55:1 Gears
Chrome Strut tower
Unknown brand of Piggyback Underdrive pulleys
FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft (some say it may have come stock)
Things I've added:
Steeda Underdrive pulleys
Steeda Idler Pulleys
Gatorback Belt
BBK Chrome Valve Covers
FRPP 03/04 Cobra Front Control Arms
BBK Standard Rate Gripp Springs
Tokico Shocks and struts
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Chrome plates
Drilled and Slotted front rotors
1999 SVT Cobra Steering Rack
Maximum Motor Sports solid motor mounts
Maximum motor sports bump steer kit
Prothayne Sway bar end links
Prothayne Bushings all around
Prothyane Spring isolators
Maximum motor sports Solid Steering Shaft
Spec Stage 2 Clutch (stock flywheel)
FRPP Heavy Duty Clutch fork
FRPP Heavy Duty Throw Out Bearing
Hurst Short Throw Shifter + White 5 spd. knob
Roush Shifter Boot
Lakewood Universal Joints
Jegs Driveshaft Safety Loop
Moser 31 spline Axles
Eaton LSD Posi Diffy
SVO 4.10:1 Gears
FRPP Rear axle Girdle
Yokohama 520 Tires
Maximum Motorsports Black Powdercoated Full Length Weld-in Sub-Frame Connectors
Steeda Ajustable Clutch Cable
Steeda Adjustable Quadrant
BBK Firewall Clutch adjuster
Next Mods:
Morosso Battery Relocation Kit
As it stands it Currently Runs 15.5 @ 89 MPH on the 1/4 Mile
It dynoed 194 RWHP and 256 RWTQ
I purchased PI Heads, PI Cams, PI Intake manifold, all accessories and gaskets to put them in, SCT Livewire to tune it; but chickened out on tearing apart "my baby." I have since sold these parts to make way for a bigger, better plan.
Stage 1:
Break the old, to justify the new~
My car was making an odd "chunk" sound at idle. My friend (and fellow SN95 member) Mikey discovered it was the poor-quality piggyback underdrive pulley on my crank shaft. The keyway on the crank had litterally dugout a part of the pulley, creating play when there was no throttle on the motor. When removing the bolt holding the pulley to the crank, many threads came out. Through installation of the new pulleys and a "Steeda Modular Timing Adjuster" we removed litterally 100% of the threads in the crankshaft. (Mikey was not present for this, but me and a couple of other buddies took care of things.) We ended up removing the radiator, the fan, and drilling out the crankshaft and placing a helicoil inside. Upon installation of the new pulley and the Timing Adjuster, things didn't sit 100%. The Timing adjuster was cockeyed, but after 4 attempts (and we were on the last [5th] helicoil in the $90.00 kit) we did not want to take the bolt out and ruin things. Gobs of lock-tight, 1 helicoil, and 1 random bolt later I had a properly running car. But due to the timing adjuster not sitting properly, it ticks and rattles. Its very embarrassing, and now its time to fix the *car* and fix it RIGHT.
Stage 2:
The Plan~
Teskid Block - 4.6 Modular based block made of Aluminum with 4 bolt mains with 2 additional side-bolts. (common on Ford Modular Motors)
Rotating Assembly - Livernoise 298 Stroker Kit. Fully forged kit complete with the same pistons and rods used in NASCAR.
Heads - 2003/2004 Ford Mustang Cobra Heads, ported, polished, rebuilt, fully re-worked by Heads By Drew here in Aurora Colorado.
Power Adder - 2.8L Kenne Bell Mammoth Blower, polished, running at 25 PSI (750+ HP on a 281 terminator cobra at 26 PSI according to their website)
clutch - Uncertain
Tranny - Fully built Viper T-56
Driveshaft - Custom carbon fiber driveshaft
3rd member - Banjo Ford 9"
suspension - Maximum Motorsports full coilover kit
body - uncertain
Stage 3:
The Build~
I took the block to the machine shop this week. He suggested doing .020 over with deck plates in place. He will clean the block, machine the block, machine the gasket surfaces, repair minor damage (an "ear" that connects the block to the transmission broke off. And he will call me when he's done with it for additional suggestions if needed.
I am currently in the process of buying the heads. I have found 3 sets that I am interested in, I just need 1 of the deals to follow through.
I am getting a bonus near the holiday in September, I will use this money to purchase the rotating assembly and to pay off my debt.
Over the next year or so I will purchase the blower and the fuel system.
after final assembly I will put the motor into the car. I will keep the stock drivetrain during break-in and for as long as possible while I drive like a normal person.
The rest of the build will come as things break. T56 will come when the T45 gives out. Ford 9" will come when the 8.8" gives out, and so on.
I hope to, in 365 days, finish this thread with a beautiful motor dropped into a beautiful car.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I want to send a special thanks to a few specific people on the forum:
Paul, for educating me into taking the cheep road whenever possible. Chrome bolts don't add horsepower, stock parts may last longer than we think, and breaking the car is half the fun.
Justin, for showing me the potential of a blower. The money I would have saved simply learning my lesson in the first place and getting boost. -Boost gets you laid-
JR, for explaining that driving your car like you stole is almost always the reason it breaks. For taking the time to educate me on transmissions and drivetrain, even in the little ways.
Hellion, for totally calling my dumb-as$ out on my misinformation and showing me its better to listen and learn than to talk and fail.
Handz, for showing me that details matter just as much as the big picture. A racing seat, a coat of wax, and some clean pics can really bring the love of cars back to a persons life.
1stof3, for reminding us all that good things come to those who wait.
Dalamar, that a car that's less than perfect is unacceptable, shoot for the stars and it will all pay off in the end.
Matt, SN95s are not a love, they are not a passion, they are not a hobby. They are an addiction... and I think you for your efforts to aid in fueling my addiction. You, and your site, has changed my life forever and the countless friends and new family I have found here will always be irreplaceable.
Mikey, for taking the time to drive across town to help me out. I know its not always easy being a teacher.
Tbuck07, for tearing into your motor and getting the job done... Giving the rest of us "beginner mechanics" courage to do the same!
Duff Daddy and Drop Top Pony, for their sound advice on the aluminum block and for selflessly doing foot-work to help me find information when I needed it.
And finally all of SN95. You guys have been my SOLE source for information regarding my car and my automotive education. I haven't hesitated to ask you guys about Buicks, Chevys, and Hondas on here either. You are all great people and you make an amazing family. I assure you more of my dumb questions will show up as I begin this build. This *is* my first motor build and I look forward to it. most people would be intimidated by it, but I'm not because I know I have unlimited knowledge at my fingertips. I am the first "gearhead" in my family, and therefore, I must get information wherever I can find it. You are all a great source for knowledge, fun, and free porn.
Now, here are some pictures of the car as I got it from the dealership. This week I will take more pictures to show off the new, lowered, look!
Many Thanks for checking out my thread, I hope you subscribe to it, and I hope you have as much fun as I do! I will keep you all posted with updates via this thread!
-MustangChris
CURRENT STATUS:
Teskid Block
-Purchased
-cleaned
-Getting bored and assembled
2003 Cobra Heads
-Purchased
-Waiting until blower purchase before paying for rebuild
2.8L
-Current Financial Goal: $4,500.00
-Current Financial Status: $400.00
Parts Bought:
Cobra Gas Tank
Cobra Timing Cover
Cobra Lower Intake
Cobra Valve Covers
