So guess what guys

sn95jones

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My #8 cylinder is down... Knocking away. It was pretty hard to trace it down but that's what it's come down to.
Looks like im doing a pi motor swap.

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BigBore96

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Also, generally #8 goes down due to lack of oil. Make sure you put a quality oil pump in the next one and do a billet geared one if you can.

Another thing, Idk if anyone has recommended it to you yet, but run 7 quarts oil in ALL 4.6 modulars w/stock pan.

Edit:damn autocorrect.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Also, generally #8 goes down due to lack of oil. Make sure you put a quality oil pump in the next one and do a billet geared one if you can.

Another thing, Idk if anyway has recommended it to you yet, but run 7 quarts oil in ALL 4.6 modulars w/stock pan.

Funny you say this my car was bone dry somehow. Had the oil change done at Ford 4 months ago, car never burned oil nor did it ever drip once car is completely dry underneath

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BigBore96

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Funny you say this my car was bone dry somehow. Had the oil change done at Ford 4 months ago, car never burned oil nor did it ever drip once car is completely dry underneath

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Well, generally the 4.6 heads/timing cover/etc hog oil. which then gets trapped up there. Odd it was bone dry. The 4.6s even new, would burn a 1/2 quart of oil over time.

Just remember, 7 quarts of oil. And make sure the guys changing your oil actually use 7 quarts. They will argue and say 5.5. But they are stupid. I promise.
When you are idleing, the pan is 2-3 quarts lower than off. And when revved up it's even less because of the oil getting trapped and slowly coming back down. 5.5 to 6 is just not enough imo.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Well, generally the 4.6 heads/timing cover/etc hog oil. which then gets trapped up there. Odd it was bone dry. The 4.6s even new, would burn a 1/2 quart of oil over time.

Just remember, 7 quarts of oil. And make sure the guys changing your oil actually use 7 quarts. They will argue and say 5.5. But they are stupid. I promise.
When you are idleing, the pan is 2-3 quarts lower than off. And when revved up it's even less because of the oil getting trapped and slowly coming back down. 5.5 to 6 is just not enough imo.

Gotcha, I just figure since I need a new motor going npi replacement motor would be pointless let alone a pi motor are a dime a dozen. Already found one with 75K for $1000

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Barner1

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Hate that the motor had to give out on you, but might as well "seize the opprotunity" and do the PI swap. Good luck with it!
 

RichV

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So was this the clutch noise, so you thought? Or something new?

Ouch, that sux. So what's a PI swap gonna cost, best case? $1-2 grand?

What years of Explorers?
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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So was this the clutch noise, so you thought? Or something new?

Ouch, that sux. So what's a PI swap gonna cost, best case? $1-2 grand?

What years of Explorers?

Something like that.
We put in the new clutch kit and it wouldn't even go into gear with the car running. Come to find out the TOB wasn't putting enough pressure on the pressure plate even with the new clutch cable. So they pulled it apart again and put in the sve clutch and it worked fine.
To answer the question, no the sve clutch kit was fine

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BigBore96

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Are you wanting to rebuild it for a bit more power or just throw in a stock pi setup and call it done?
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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So im starting to consider a 3v swap, apparently it's a pretty easy swap?

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BigBore96

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So im starting to consider a 3v swap, apparently it's a pretty easy swap?

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Don't bother. It's not as easy as it sounds to get it working properly. Can get expensive fast. 4v swap > 3v swap.
 

BigBore96

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Really not looking for a huge increase but a anywhere from 260-300 would be nice

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In this case, go for a Custom NPI cammed 2v with pi intake, a pi swap with cams of your choice (that $1000 pi setup would be alright but won't be in the power range without cams), or a 4v swap of your choice. Cheapest would probably be a mark 8 for that power, and as time goes on you can cobra intake swap it later if you wanted to.

I'd say it depends on the amount of work you want to do.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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In this case, go for a Custom NPI cammed 2v with pi intake, a pi swap with cams of your choice (that $1000 pi setup would be alright but won't be in the power range without cams), or a 4v swap of your choice. Cheapest would probably be a mark 8 for that power, and as time goes on you can cobra intake swap it later if you wanted to.

I'd say it depends on the amount of work you want to do.

I've thought about the mark 8
As well as of right now idk if im going to take it a shop or find someone to install because I sure as hell don't have the knowledge in swapping motors

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BigBore96

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I've thought about the mark 8
As well as of right now idk if im going to take it a shop or find someone to install because I sure as hell don't have the knowledge in swapping motors

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O, if not doing the work yourself, do the PI swap. You will get nickle and dimed on any other swap.
 

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