The Coyote swap and the SN95

360dartgts · May 5, 2020

I'm using an on3Performance hat with dual pumps and i built my own delivery system. 8an feed 6an return. With an Aeromotive regulator and UPR filter it fits in the factory filter bracket with minor modification. Minimal AN fittings used. Pretty cheap full blown system.

Also put the battery in the trunk and the dual fuel pump relays are fed directly from the battery. Ford control pack is wired through the inertia switch to operate the relays.

This is not a cheap upgrade if you want to do it right. But in the end you can have a car that has stupid power and the wife can also drive.

joe65 · May 6, 2020

I knew you guys would reply. I'm just starting to figure this stuff out. Thanks.

lwarrior1016 · May 6, 2020

MyBoxersSayJoe said:
I think it was video part 3 or 4 of their swap they explain what years didn't have a return fuel system. If I remember correctly, 96-98 was okay. 99-04 needed to convert. 98 was definitely okay.

Yes, it was return up to 98. Up to 97 had the sending unit and pump assembly in two different locations in the tank. 98 changed to the pump being in a basket with the sending unit. If you have a 99 and up car, the 98 fuel pump assembly will bolt into the newer tank, the 97 and down will not.

Boostr1 · May 6, 2020

Yeah my 98 is a return style. It's a weird year because the 98 came both ways. I think later 98 year models switched to the single return style pump, sending unit basket assembly fuel hat what I had. My 98 is late year model.

lwarrior1016 · May 6, 2020

98 also had a variable speed fuel pump that was controlled by a second relay behind the glove box and a big resistor under the fender by the ccrm.

360dartgts · May 8, 2020

If you are even thinking of doing this swap you need at least a basic knowledge of electronics and how to read a wiring diagram. If you don't good luck on removing the old factory stuff and getting everything to work.

I was going to use the factory dash but decided that the Dakota Digital unit was the way to go. It has a much easier setup and you can pull most info from the Ford control pack directly.

joe65 · May 9, 2020

360dartgts said:
If you are even thinking of doing this swap you need at least a basic knowledge of electronics and how to read a wiring diagram. If you don't good luck on removing the old factory stuff and getting everything to work.

I was going to use the factory dash but decided that the Dakota Digital unit was the way to go. It has a much easier setup and you can pull most info from the Ford control pack directly.

Yeah they hit the market right with their instrument clusters. Even half their price seems high to me, but that's the price to play these days.

360dartgts · May 13, 2020

I found that the Gates lower radiator hose was close but not quite what is needed with a supercharger and PBH accessory brackets. The hose hit the power steering pulley really bad. BUT I used the Ford control pack lower hose that was supplied in the kit along with the suggested Gates hose both needed modification to work though.

I have the radiator side of the Ford control pack on the thermostat housing and i cut it on the straight part of the hose. i then cut the Gates hose on the straight part of the hose on the radiator end of the hose. I'm going to join both parts together with a billet 1 1\2" adapter that I got on Amazon for $8. I'll get some pics and upload soon.

MustangChris · Jun 12, 2020

Great thread, guys!

joe65 · Jun 24, 2020

So, lets talk axles and diffs for a minute. Mine really needs to have the axle bearings/seals replaced. So i start going down that rabbit hole...if i'm going to 400 whp coyote setup, do i go to 31 spline axles and diff? What are you guys running/going to run? I realize the 28s are good until you start launching with stickies.

360dartgts · Jun 24, 2020

I changed to a torsen differential and 31 spline strange axles along with 3.73 FRPP gears

lwarrior1016 · Jun 25, 2020

I’ve got a terminator irs so it’s 31 spline, with a factory trac lok.

white95 · Jun 25, 2020

I have an 8.8 with an Eaton TrueTrack differential, Yukon 31 spline axles and 4.10 gears.

joe65 · Jun 25, 2020

ok, pretty much tells me i should go to the 31 spline set up. Just another $500 -$700 in the old turd. Gotta pay to play, like they say.

Boostr1 · Jun 25, 2020

FRPP 3.73, FRPP 31 spline axles, and Cobra posi.

360dartgts · Jul 20, 2020

1 Note that may help some...

Got my car running and WOW! Can't wait to actually get it on the road!

1 hiccup... the hood, it hits the supercharger, which I kind of expected.

Solution that I came up with was cut a hole in the hood with a cut off wheel to get the approx. location to move the factory scoop to. Move factory scoop forward 6" from stock. Then you need to massage the scoop insert to fit the new location on the hood, it looks great fit wise. Now I'll have to send to the body shop to make the hole look pretty and have them paint it.

All of that works out good though. They can also weld in my subframe connectors and also line up the body panels while its there.

lwarrior1016 · Jul 20, 2020

360dartgts said:
1 Note that may help some...

Got my car running and WOW! Can't wait to actually get it on the road!

1 hiccup... the hood, it hits the supercharger, which I kind of expected.

Solution that I came up with was cut a hole in the hood with a cut off wheel to get the approx. location to move the factory scoop to. Move factory scoop forward 6" from stock. Then you need to massage the scoop insert to fit the new location on the hood, it looks great fit wise. Now I'll have to send to the body shop to make the hole look pretty and have them paint it.

All of that works out good though. They can also weld in my subframe connectors and also line up the body panels while its there.

Show us some pictures of your creation, please.