The Coyote swap and the SN95

lwarrior1016

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That looks pretty good. You going to bring the scoop line back to where it used to be? Basically stretch the scoop long ways?
 
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white95

white95

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Here ya go. Still need the magic of my body guy.

That looks pretty good. You going to bring the scoop line back to where it used to be? Basically stretch the scoop long ways?

Wonder how an '82 GT hood scoop would look...

09-30-2012-203.jpg
 

360dartgts

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Here's a pic at the body shop of the scoop moved 6 inches forward. A hole was cut in the hood to clear the supercharger. Factory scoop moved to cover the hole.
 

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joe65

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Yeah thats not bad. Gets the job done. And damn that thing with SC too. Crap that's gonna be a hauling ass ride.
 
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360dartgts

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Gotta wait until Friday to bring it home. My buddy that did the work has a couple of details to finish up. I think he's trying to kill me by making me wait. Cruel humor. Must be a good friend huh? Only good friends take humor in that kind of stuff. LOL
 

weendoggy

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Think it’s time we freshened this thread up.
OK. You don't need a FRPP control pack IF you can get a stock computer/engine harness from a salvage car/donor (same Gen for both, incld. auto/manual). I did this on my Gen1 swap and no tune is needed. You'll still have to do a return style fuel system, but it does work. You will need the body harness to make life easier.

For 2000> you'll need to incorporate the OSS and CRK signals through you're stock PCM IF you intend on using the stock dash setup. That keeps your stock speedo and tach. I believe Gen3 needs to have the OP run through it's PCM but you can use an adapter (PBH) and use the Coyote sender and yours to for the dash.

I know this works because I did it to mine. Now, if this needs correcting, please do so.
 

Tim300wsm

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OK. You don't need a FRPP control pack IF you can get a stock computer/engine harness from a salvage car/donor (same Gen for both, incld. auto/manual). I did this on my Gen1 swap and no tune is needed. You'll still have to do a return style fuel system, but it does work. You will need the body harness to make life easier.

For 2000> you'll need to incorporate the OSS and CRK signals through you're stock PCM IF you intend on using the stock dash setup. That keeps your stock speedo and tach. I believe Gen3 needs to have the OP run through it's PCM but you can use an adapter (PBH) and use the Coyote sender and yours to for the dash.

I know this works because I did it to mine. Now, if this needs correcting, please do so.
So an ecm and engine harness is all you need?
 

lwarrior1016

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So an ecm and engine harness is all you need?
Depending what generation engine you have, determines what computer you get. If you get a Gen 2, you’ll have to get a computer, engine harness, and a fuse box harness from them at model car. That gives you the two pcm connectors you need.
 

Tim300wsm

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Depending what generation engine you have, determines what computer you get. If you get a Gen 2, you’ll have to get a computer, engine harness, and a fuse box harness from them at model car. That gives you the two pcm connectors you need.
That’s way way cheaper than the ford kit. This means quite a bit of savings for me. I may get this done this summer.
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s way way cheaper than the ford kit. This means quite a bit of savings for me. I may get this done this summer.
Beware though, you’ll still need to get a Ford accelerator pedal, and you’ll still have to get a tune to get rid of the security and to account for the return fuel system.
 

joe65

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I’ve been watching online all along and there are lots of coyotes to be found now for sure. They are so popular now in every type of resto mod project you can imagine.
 

Jatavousb

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:cool:

@joe65 I've decided to make this a thread so that others can add their input for everyone’s benefit.

To answer your question, I don’t actually have an installed Coyote swap. What I do have is most all of the parts required to do so and a lot of usable knowledge.

We have since installed and ran my Coyote swap. :cool:

I have since BROKEN and yanked the Coyote out. ‍:mad:

We have since installed Coyote engine 1.01 :D


You have to decide a path:

1) Standalone or FRPP control pack

  • FRPP control pack - $1000-1500+ Literally plug and play. If you follow the directions, it will start on the fire try and run as Ford intended. You have to buy a pedal mount to use the drive by wire throttle stuff. I’ll have to check but I believe this is meant to run Mustang engines so you’ll have to swap cams. Expect that to run about $160 per cam and $170 per cam phaser. You’ll also have to replace all 32 cam journal bolts. I suggest ARP since the stock stuff is TTY.
  • Standalone EFI - Could be cheaper or could be vastly more expensive. Much more involved installation. You can set this up as drive by wire or traditional cable driven throttle body. The sky is the limit for tuning options. The Holley TiVCT controller makes life really easy. That being said, you can lock the cams out and do whatever you want but you deny yourself the pleasure of the variable cam timing which helps the Coyote shine. Speaking of throttle bodies, a solid choice is the 87mm FAST 54087. This uses a GM style TPS but more importantly has an stepper style IAC for an easy install.
Everything else is pretty much straightforward. You either run the Power by Hour accessory bracket setup or you don’t. Personally, I’m going to run a Volvo electric power steering pump with my custom braided hose PS setup and only run my AC compressor and the alternator.

@lwarrior1016 can shed some more light on how he ran his fuel system but from what I remember it’s a dead head fuel rail setup with the return line leaving the fuel pressure regulator.

You have to buy Coyote swap headers and either buy a matching mid-pipe or build one. Period.

You can reuse the stock engine mounts or utilize any other 4.6 aftermarket set.

You will have to either notch the stock oil pan or buy an aftermarket piece. My suggestion is the Moroso 20576 because it was revamped to fit swap headers. Fits the MM k-member like a glove.

Edit: Holley has releases a swap oil pan that works with stock k-members. Part #302-50

You can run T45’s or TR3650’s but they won’t last. Some don’t last a block others last thousands of miles. They weren’t meant for 7k+ rpm shifts as delivered from Ford. You can obviously beef them up to handle more power.

You will have to adapt the coolant hoses to the SN95 heater core and radiator. A lot simpler than it sounds. You can either elect to plumb the system with the degas style system or utilize the PBH coolant nipple kit and run the 94-95 style radiator.

There is an infinite number of ways to do this and we will help you get there.
Can I use a gen 3 mustang coyote with a f150 10r80? Will it work with the control pack?
 
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white95

white95

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Can I use a gen 3 mustang coyote with a f150 10r80? Will it work with the control pack?

I’m not aware of a control pack that will control the 10 speed. I believe most people use stock ECUs and adapt them to their projects.
 

97ponygt

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I’m not aware of a control pack that will control the 10 speed. I believe most people use stock ECUs and adapt them to their projects.

The 10 speed found in a F150? Or a 10r80 out of a Mustang? Isn't the control pack below intended to be used with 10r80 and Gen 3 Coyote?

 

weendoggy

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The 10 speed found in a F150? Or a 10r80 out of a Mustang? Isn't the control pack below intended to be used with 10r80 and Gen 3 Coyote?

According to the document, it's says Mustang 18-20MY and not a 21MY so you better find out what the F150 has. The rest is easy.
 

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