Venom 's Build Thread
- Thread starter venom
- Start date
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
looks good man. Curious why your not gong with the weld in scott rod panels? Just seems like the riveted in panels will just not look as finished as the rest of the engine bay.
I know that feeling of having to rebuild the alt if it goes out. I had to make a bigger bracket to hold mine since its an old vintage HO monster and as if that wasn't enough the voltage regulator is off-board as well. my only fear is that I am not sure if I could get parts for it since they don't make it anymore
I know that feeling of having to rebuild the alt if it goes out. I had to make a bigger bracket to hold mine since its an old vintage HO monster and as if that wasn't enough the voltage regulator is off-board as well. my only fear is that I am not sure if I could get parts for it since they don't make it anymore
There's many reasons I have not gone with weld ins. Paint is a long ways away plus I know myself I may change a few things around. Last thing I want is to make holes into a panel that has no holes. The riveted panel will serve its purpose then it can be sold if I do not like it. I think a clean engine bays look nice but at times it may be way too much and you may lose the mechanical look of an engine bay. It may look too much like these hot rods that everything is covered up and looks too pretty Kind of hard to explain but trust me if it does not look right it will be changed. One benefit of the riveted panel is that it looks like there will be some spaces or empty cavities in between the stock and Scott Rod pieces. You can use this to hide wiring. The only thing I may do is use plastic rivets instead of metal ones as plastic rivets are easier to remove. Ultimately I am looking to keep things simple, easy to work on and clean, in that order.
For alternator try http://www.mechman.com
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I gotcha on the weld-ins as I welded mine up, cut the hole for the NA power pipe and then found a deal on a vortech kit. But the fun with metal and welding is its easy to fill in holes and make it look like it never happened. If you want to make them easy to remove check out a rivnut tool and you could make the panels removable by just taking the screws out.
as for the alt I already have this beast but like I said if/when it goes out I might have a hell of a time finding parts for it.
as for the alt I already have this beast but like I said if/when it goes out I might have a hell of a time finding parts for it.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
Its a 200 amp alt and I am using a balmar voltage regulator that will optimize the charging cycle for my AGM batteries.
harbor freight has rivnut tools as well the only problem with it is that it comes with 8 different rivnuts for each size screw/bit but they do not sell the loose rivnuts alone. I ended up ordering a bunch of each and put them into a little plastic box that has the nuts, mandrels/bits and screws for them as well.
harbor freight has rivnut tools as well the only problem with it is that it comes with 8 different rivnuts for each size screw/bit but they do not sell the loose rivnuts alone. I ended up ordering a bunch of each and put them into a little plastic box that has the nuts, mandrels/bits and screws for them as well.
DavidBoren
Active Member
By the way, holy F-ing air filter, Batman!
Got a couple of things done. Fuel lines run and got a great deal for a Saleen kit which I have been looking into for some time.
Current state
Flex fuel sensor
-8 y block
FPR, lots of lines under there but better hidden then all over the engine bay
Here you can see the return line -6 that goes under the intake
Close up
Other side
Saleen bumpers
Despite them looking good from far they are far from good. Looks like poor prep or lack of flexible additive or both.
Side skirts are really bad as they used some epoxy to hold them in place and was nearly impossible to remove them off the Cobra they were attached to. I might get a pair of Cervinis Stalker and sell these off as the work required might be a tad too much and results might not be as good as new set.
Had to try at least front bumper and as expected looks great
Need to relocate fog lights
Current state
Flex fuel sensor
-8 y block
FPR, lots of lines under there but better hidden then all over the engine bay
Here you can see the return line -6 that goes under the intake
Close up
Other side
Saleen bumpers
Despite them looking good from far they are far from good. Looks like poor prep or lack of flexible additive or both.
Side skirts are really bad as they used some epoxy to hold them in place and was nearly impossible to remove them off the Cobra they were attached to. I might get a pair of Cervinis Stalker and sell these off as the work required might be a tad too much and results might not be as good as new set.
Had to try at least front bumper and as expected looks great
Need to relocate fog lights
5-oh-MUSTANG
Well-Known Member
Yessss. Saleen kit gonna go perfect with this build.
Got a couple of things today that will keep me going. One being the panels and other is vacuum manifold. I went with push to lock lines. I noticed that a lot of racers are using it plus my red race valve came with one. I hope that going with the push to lock setup makes it easier, cleaner and more secure than using AN fittings.
Lets see how this works out, kind of hesitant to make holes in it.
Make sure to get nylon tubing as it holds up better to heat and bends easier.
Here is the fittings which are nickel plated brass. I have noticed that many use the thermoplastic fittings but I have seen specs and noticed the these have a lower melting point then brass. This means that the fittings with soften at a lower temp. I am sure that you can get away with the plastic fittings but feel safer with brass plated plus think it looks better in silver finish. The manifold block is small and can be mounted anywhere. Also note that the 90 degree fittings swivel making it easier to position. The long rectangular piece is a holder for the tubing to make the routing cleaner when dealing with multiple lines going in the same direction. The straight fitting is female and is going to be used with a barb end to connect to lines that are not threaded like map sensor.
Lets see how this works out, kind of hesitant to make holes in it.
Make sure to get nylon tubing as it holds up better to heat and bends easier.
Here is the fittings which are nickel plated brass. I have noticed that many use the thermoplastic fittings but I have seen specs and noticed the these have a lower melting point then brass. This means that the fittings with soften at a lower temp. I am sure that you can get away with the plastic fittings but feel safer with brass plated plus think it looks better in silver finish. The manifold block is small and can be mounted anywhere. Also note that the 90 degree fittings swivel making it easier to position. The long rectangular piece is a holder for the tubing to make the routing cleaner when dealing with multiple lines going in the same direction. The straight fitting is female and is going to be used with a barb end to connect to lines that are not threaded like map sensor.
DavidBoren
Active Member
Those vacuum lines, or at least the fittings you have, look an awful lot like the macro-line used in/for paintball markers.
Anyways, I'm glad to see you are still making progress. Post some pictures of the finished product when you are done running those vacuum lines.
Anyways, I'm glad to see you are still making progress. Post some pictures of the finished product when you are done running those vacuum lines.
whiplash473
Post Whore
I need to stay on top of this thread, this is great. Looking forward to more!
Yes, these are pneumatic fittings. They are used in many applications. I don't know yet where it's going to go will probably assemble the vacuum manifold with all the fittings then see where it makes the most sense. Top two places to mount so far is firewall or hidden under fender.
Thanks, will try my best to keep up with updates.
Tabres
Member
I may have missed this somewhere, but what computer are you using in this car? Can you explain to me more about the flex-fuel sensor and how you're making it work?
Love this build!
Love this build!
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
imagine how nice It will look with everything in one place. Where are you putting it at? I am mounting mine to the firewall on the bottom of the metal flange that goes all the way across under the cowl.
Thanks. I am going to use the Mega Squirt ECU. The flex-fuel sensor goes on the return line and the Mega-Squirt will adjust fuel based on what the FF sensor is reading. You can not do this with a stock ECU to my knowledge. You need a stand alone ECU like the Mega Squirt or Haltech etc to make it work on non flex fuel vehicles.
Mocked up the vacuum system. Didn't know how or where but it seems like best place would be against the firewall. It is just laying there will have to make a bracket or screw holders down to firewall. I was hoping to mount the overflow can but seems like I will have to start wiring as theres tons of wires I need to move on the drivers side. Sorry about aome of the pics that are a bit blurry.
Close up
Close up
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I have a similar vac tree I am installing but on the pass side of the firewall. I faced my vac lines down and then used the flange that the cowl mounts on to mount the tree to it.
