What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

RAU03MACH

Legend
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
9,281
Reaction score
9,733
Location
NEW MEXICO
That's what I was going to say
How dose that effect it
There is a certain volt yes but picks up at that reading
I have not had any problems with any of my ones on the mustang
On my ranger I have replaced 3 of them
Cheap china crap auto zone
 

shovel

Active Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
575
Reaction score
543
I'll have more to show when it's done. Since I'm kinda in new territory - or at least not widely documented territory - and I was performing a few unrelated jobs together I had to make some things up as I was going like I didn't know 100% of all the parts to order in advance and then I have to stop work until the parts show up.

Now that the Holley is on there and it runs I've discovered its MAP sensor is reading 90-94kpa under all conditions (it should drop to half that or less under idle, it doesn't even react when I manually cork/uncork a deliberate vacuum leak). The MAP sensor is embedded inside the Sniper 2 so there is no such thing as it getting disconnected it's literally soldered to the main system board and its vacuum source is machined into the throttle body itself so the only possibilities are a manufacturing flaw or a firmware error. I didn't find this out until Friday after work and of course Holley tech support won't be back in the office taking calls or emails till Monday when I'm also at work.

So not much gets done this weekend, again.

This car's gonna be a lot of fun to drive 5 summers from now when I finally finish it :)
 

weendoggy

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
1,203
Reaction score
1,506
Using 2qts/oil every month and less than 700mi driven. 240,000mi engine and clitter catters a lot on startup. Oh, won't pass smog...wonder why. Once out on the stand, I'll take a cover off just to peek inside. I can tell A LOT of hands have been in here due to the many different connectors/clamps/etc. that have been used. Still had the original radiator hoses and 26yrs old. Forgot to mention it's a 2000 and has one of the skinniest radiator cores I've seen!
 

shovel

Active Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
575
Reaction score
543
Now that the Holley is on there and it runs I've discovered its MAP sensor is reading 90-94kpa under all conditions (it should drop to half that or less under idle, it doesn't even react when I manually cork/uncork a deliberate vacuum leak). The MAP sensor is embedded inside the Sniper 2 so there is no such thing as it getting disconnected it's literally soldered to the main system board and its vacuum source is machined into the throttle body itself so the only possibilities are a manufacturing flaw or a firmware error. I didn't find this out until Friday after work and of course Holley tech support won't be back in the office taking calls or emails till Monday when I'm also at work.

I just got off the phone with Holley tech support and they confirmed there's really nothing else it could possibly be but a DOA MAP sensor.. so they're going to exchange or repair it under warranty. Glad it's something they'll take care of, let's hope the turn-around time doesn't eat too much summer.
 

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,281
Reaction score
2,375
Location
Somis, CA
Removed rear wheels, washed, cleaner wax and ceramic coated. Saw “petroleum jelly” instead of tire dressings, so gave it a shot. Caked it on pretty good, 2 days later sitting looks like a new tire BEFORE dressings.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    361.7 KB · Views: 12
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    244.3 KB · Views: 12

wmfateam

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
946
Reaction score
353
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Filter, Drain and fill trans on the F150 Ecoboost and then pulled the trans out of my sons mustang. I thought I could be sneaky and pull the trans off with the headers still attached. No dice. Dropped the subframe, pulled the heads off and then easy peasy. Contemplating putting a light weight k member in while I have the stock one out.
 

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,281
Reaction score
2,375
Location
Somis, CA
Filter, Drain and fill trans on the F150 Ecoboost and then pulled the trans out of my sons mustang. I thought I could be sneaky and pull the trans off with the headers still attached. No dice. Dropped the subframe, pulled the heads off and then easy peasy. Contemplating putting a light weight k member in while I have the stock one out.
K member not a bad time, but put some forward thinking into any plans for front suspension changes/upgrades. Combo’s limit what you can and cannot do as I’m sure you’re aware
 

wmfateam

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
946
Reaction score
353
Location
Gilbert, AZ
K member not a bad time, but put some forward thinking into any plans for front suspension changes/upgrades. Combo’s limit what you can and cannot do as I’m sure you’re aware
This car will more than likely get a turbo. The UPR was what I was going to put in as I still have not come up with a clean way to get intercooler pipes back to the engine bay with a rear mounted turbo. It already has tubular front and rear control arms with coil overs. It would be a pre plan for the On3 kit or ease of dealing with these damn long tubes.
 

weendoggy

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
1,203
Reaction score
1,506
Filter, Drain and fill trans on the F150 Ecoboost and then pulled the trans out of my sons mustang. I thought I could be sneaky and pull the trans off with the headers still attached. No dice. Dropped the subframe, pulled the heads off and then easy peasy. Contemplating putting a light weight k member in while I have the stock one out.
I hope you mean you dropped the subframe then pulled the headers and not the heads! I have to do that with mine now even with a separate bell housing. LT's just hug it too tight.
 

joemomma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
1,489
Reaction score
993
Filter, Drain and fill trans on the F150 Ecoboost and then pulled the trans out of my sons mustang. I thought I could be sneaky and pull the trans off with the headers still attached. No dice. Dropped the subframe, pulled the heads off and then easy peasy. Contemplating putting a light weight k member in while I have the stock one out.
6-speed? How big of a job was this? I just turned over 110k in my '16 so thinking it could probably use it.
 

wmfateam

Active Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
946
Reaction score
353
Location
Gilbert, AZ
I hope you mean you dropped the subframe then pulled the headers and not the heads! I have to do that with mine now even with a separate bell housing. LT's just hug it too tight.
Oh, I pulled the whole effing heads off!! This engine is toast and being replaced. Zero fucks were given as I was trying to find the easiest way. Finally ended up dropping the k member which I should have done on day one, lol.
6-speed? How big of a job was this? I just turned over 110k in my '16 so thinking it could probably use it.
Yes Sir. Way easy. Like 20ish 8mm bolts and it comes off. I used 5qts of Motorcraft LV, but I bought 6 as I wanted to drive it around for a week and check fluid again. I also dropped a thing of Motorcraft Friction modifier in it as there was a TSB or something that mentioned if you have any torque converter shutter that it will help. The whole thing defiantly helped as it feels so much more smooth. Especially in Tow and Sport modes. I used these two videos as "guides" before I started. I used my race ramps to give me a little extra room under the truck. Also used a large plastic bin made for wrapping paper to catch the fluid since it comes down in a wide as pattern. About an hour of actual work from parking on the ramps to driving back off with a 30 minute dinner break in the middle. I let it long drain and let the pan dry as I was eating dinner.
 

joemomma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
1,489
Reaction score
993
Oh, I pulled the whole effing heads off!! This engine is toast and being replaced. Zero fucks were given as I was trying to find the easiest way. Finally ended up dropping the k member which I should have done on day one, lol.

Yes Sir. Way easy. Like 20ish 8mm bolts and it comes off. I used 5qts of Motorcraft LV, but I bought 6 as I wanted to drive it around for a week and check fluid again. I also dropped a thing of Motorcraft Friction modifier in it as there was a TSB or something that mentioned if you have any torque converter shutter that it will help. The whole thing defiantly helped as it feels so much more smooth. Especially in Tow and Sport modes. I used these two videos as "guides" before I started. I used my race ramps to give me a little extra room under the truck. Also used a large plastic bin made for wrapping paper to catch the fluid since it comes down in a wide as pattern. About an hour of actual work from parking on the ramps to driving back off with a 30 minute dinner break in the middle. I let it long drain and let the pan dry as I was eating dinner.
Awesome thank you - this doesn't look too bad. How many miles do you have out of curiosity? I've not noticed anything weird from the trans, but this can't hurt.
 

weendoggy

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
1,203
Reaction score
1,506
Finally got the fn' thing out. I keep saying never again, but always end up doing it. Once it's out, it's o.k., just getting to that point is crazy. Part way in (committed) I was asking myself, why? Those fn' torque converter bolts were a royal PITA, but my CP 1/2" air gun was no match for them. Just glad I had room to get it in position to get them out!

Once out, I cleaned the rest of the engine bay, took the cover off to show the owner the "crap", and he said he changes oil often, to which I replied, it must've been the previous owner who didn't change oil. Now side by side, I can take what I need off, order parts and get the old one out of my garage, and focus on getting the new one installed.

One note: when draining the oil, a big snotty 3" oil loogie started out prior to the oil. I'd hate to see what's inside this thing.

engine_out.jpg
Hoisting the old one out. Not too bad, jerk it away from trans and up she goes! Then rolled truck out of garage to clean.

clean_chassis.jpg
Spayed it down with Simple Green (full) and hot water wash and dry. All better now.

valve_train.jpg
This is 225k miles with so-called, often oil changes. Not too sure it got changed often enough. Notice broken exhaust bolt. Both #7 were broken and #8 as well, for some time!

new-old_engine.jpg
All clean and happy. Now just get it back together. Now, where are those parts?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
78,555
Messages
1,536,122
Members
16,200
Latest member
Adeptus923

Members online

Top