4.6L engine rebuild

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HawkX66

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Lot's of progress yesterday. I finished the heads. Lapped the valves, polished the back side, new valve seals, installed cams etc. All torqued down. Installed the intake, test fitted the header with new dipstick (Thanks again lwarrior1016!). It worked out perfectly. I was able to install most of the timing set, but two bolts for the tension rails are eluding me... Once I get those located I'll be able to mount the front cover.
I also threw the new ball joints in the a-arms last night. Those with the new sway bar end links, springs and struts and the front end can go back together now.





















Dipstick tube to header clearance:



 

98snakehorse

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$180 eBay jobbies. Couldn't beat it. They fit well so far, but we'll see how they fit once I set the motor in the K frame.
I have the same ones. You will have to move the passenger o2 sensor bung down some. It is angled too high and hits the frame. You may also have to pinch a couple of the tubes surrounding the steering shaft for more clearence. Other than that they hold up great.

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HawkX66

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I have the same ones. You will have to move the passenger o2 sensor bung down some. It is angled too high and hits the frame. You may also have to pinch a couple of the tubes surrounding the steering shaft for more clearence. Other than that they hold up great.
I caught that O2 sensor angle. I thought it was a little much. Easy enough fix. Too bad about the steering shaft clearance issue, but again, easy fix. If those are the only two issues, I'm good with saving that much cash.

 

98snakehorse

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I caught that O2 sensor angle. I thought it was a little much. Easy enough fix. Too bad about the steering shaft clearance issue, but again, easy fix. If those are the only two issues, I'm good with saving that much cash.


Yeah its not a big deal if you have some welding skills or a buddy with a welder. As for the steering shaft I just stuck both tubes that needed clearance in a monster table vice and gave them a little squish. Doesn't require a whole lot though. For $180 im down with the adjustments for sure!
 
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Yeah its not a big deal if you have some welding skills or a buddy with a welder. As for the steering shaft I just stuck both tubes that needed clearance in a monster table vice and gave them a little squish. Doesn't require a whole lot though. For $180 im down with the adjustments for sure!
I have a MIG welder, so I'm good there. We'll see what I need to do for the pipes. I might be able to use my Porta-Power to move them out of the way. If not, I have a 20 ton press I can use.
 
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Ready to bolt in to the K member. All I need to do now is fill it with oil, bolt up the clutch and trans and slide it in. Hopefully... Once I do that, I need to make up some straight tubes to connect the headers to the X pipe.





 

lwarrior1016

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I dont want to be the bearer of bad news, but that passenger side header is going to need to come back off to get the trans bolted up.
 
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I dont want to be the bearer of bad news, but that passenger side header is going to need to come back off to get the trans bolted up.
Lame... Is it really in the way? I'm mounting the trans before I install the motor in the car.


Picking up the a/f & trans oil tonight.

TR3650 - I'm going with 2.5 qts. Mobil 1 syn ATF w/ 24oz Lucas Trans Fix.

A/F - 4 gallons

Engine oil - Motorcraft 5w-20 6qts. running it for a few minutes then I'll change it with a new FL820s filter.
 

lwarrior1016

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You know, Im not real sure about the 3650 but the t45 will NOT go in or come out without that header being taken off. I tried to just loosen it and it wasnt happening.
 
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You know, Im not real sure about the 3650 but the t45 will NOT go in or come out without that header being taken off. I tried to just loosen it and it wasnt happening.
I feel like it should be ok. The bellhousing might be a little close though. I used Stage 8 bolts, so I hope I don't have to pull them back off. A few of them were a little bit of a PITA lol



 

lwarrior1016

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I feel like it should be ok. The bellhousing might be a little close though. I used Stage 8 bolts, so I hope I don't have to pull them back off. A few of them were a little bit of a PITA lol




The starter provision on the transmission is what really gets it. I hope yours works. If the header does in fact have to come off, then you better hope you never have to change the clutch lol.
 

98snakehorse

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Yeah Im guessing the passenger header will be coming off. To me its easier to keep it off while installing the engine and trans together. Its very easy to put the passenger header on with the engine in, but pretty difficult to shove everything in the engine completely installed.

Also dont forget to move the passenger 02 bung.
 
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The starter provision on the transmission is what really gets it. I hope yours works. If the header does in fact have to come off, then you better hope you never have to change the clutch lol.

Yeah Im guessing the passenger header will be coming off. To me its easier to keep it off while installing the engine and trans together. Its very easy to put the passenger header on with the engine in, but pretty difficult to shove everything in the engine completely installed.

Also dont forget to move the passenger 02 bung.

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! New clutch, pressure plate & flywheel. I'm not pulling this one again anytime soon...
Ya, you guys are talking about the starter bump on the bellhousing aren't you? I'll know in a couple of hours, but I just don't see... OHHHHH.... I see why you're saying that now. You don't remove the trans from the bellhousing like in a Chevy. Hmmm.... DAMN!!!
As far as leaving the header removed to install, why would that matter when I lower the body down on the k frame?
 

lwarrior1016

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NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! New clutch, pressure plate & flywheel. I'm not pulling this one again anytime soon...
Ya, you guys are talking about the starter bump on the bellhousing aren't you? I'll know in a couple of hours, but I just don't see... OHHHHH.... I see why you're saying that now. You don't remove the trans from the bellhousing like in a Chevy. Hmmm.... DAMN!!!
As far as leaving the header removed to install, why would that matter when I lower the body down on the k frame?

My guess is he goes through the top like I do. Youre going up with the k member and all at the same time, you should be good to go.
 

98snakehorse

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NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! New clutch, pressure plate & flywheel. I'm not pulling this one again anytime soon...
Ya, you guys are talking about the starter bump on the bellhousing aren't you? I'll know in a couple of hours, but I just don't see... OHHHHH.... I see why you're saying that now. You don't remove the trans from the bellhousing like in a Chevy. Hmmm.... DAMN!!!
As far as leaving the header removed to install, why would that matter when I lower the body down on the k frame?

Ahh didnt realize you going from the bottom. You should be fine then.
 
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HawkX66

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Well, that sucks. I had my son remove the header last night while I mowed the lawn... Ok, Ford, pay attention. This is how you build a transmission and bellhousing! This makes it so you don't have to remove everything and you can squeak the bellhousing around things and not have to go straight in while aligning the clutch & pilot bushing. Four bolts and slide the trans in or out of the bellhousing. Just sayin'... Oh, and the starter? Gets bolted to the block...











 

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