g36 monkey
Post Whore
its a pain in the behookomus. No lie there.
95 GT - Das Llama!
- Thread starter mcglsr2
- Start date
ElrodKTPQ_89
Legend
I learned a new word today.
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mcglsr2
Well-Known Member
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mcglsr2
Well-Known Member
Got some work done tonight on the coolant overflow tank. I'm swapping out the stock fan and coolant bottle because I was thinking of doing something different. Not sure if I will still do that thing, but regardless I'm putting in a different fan. Which means a relocated over flow container. I wanted to put it where the battery was, but it wouldn't quite fit. So I got some aluminum standoff things and attached it that way. Turned out okay, don't think I'm in love with it. But I didn't want to have to get a custom tank made at this point.
It's actually pretty sturdy there. Hardly moves at all, and I gotta really lean on it to get it to flex. There won't be tons of coolant in there, so I think overall it will do okay. We'll see. I'm not done with the tank, I need to install the brass 90 deg fitting into the bottom, where the overflow from the radiator cap area will go. I also need to install my replacement low coolant level sender. Lastly, the bolts holding it in are grade 8, and I will use loctite on them during final install to make sure they don't vibrate loose.
Shot with the old overflow tank and the new one...
It's actually pretty sturdy there. Hardly moves at all, and I gotta really lean on it to get it to flex. There won't be tons of coolant in there, so I think overall it will do okay. We'll see. I'm not done with the tank, I need to install the brass 90 deg fitting into the bottom, where the overflow from the radiator cap area will go. I also need to install my replacement low coolant level sender. Lastly, the bolts holding it in are grade 8, and I will use loctite on them during final install to make sure they don't vibrate loose.
Shot with the old overflow tank and the new one...
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mcglsr2
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Another small update, removed a bunch 'o stuff that I no longer need:
And finally got the center console back in:
I put the driver side front fender back on, removed the side skirts from the passenger side, installed new rear speakers in the rear seat deck, and permanently installed the coolant overflow tank standoffs. Coming up soon, perhaps tomorrow, is swapping out the master cylinder, doing final install on the wide bands and putting the glove box back together. At that point, I think I might be ready to run juice through the car. Not start it yet, but at least see if things will turn on....
And finally got the center console back in:
I put the driver side front fender back on, removed the side skirts from the passenger side, installed new rear speakers in the rear seat deck, and permanently installed the coolant overflow tank standoffs. Coming up soon, perhaps tomorrow, is swapping out the master cylinder, doing final install on the wide bands and putting the glove box back together. At that point, I think I might be ready to run juice through the car. Not start it yet, but at least see if things will turn on....
The Scott Rod rear seat delete aluminum panels will get riveted in after I get the tint on the rear window replaced. Not gonna lie, the interior is really starting to look damn good. It's not perfect, there's already scratches and stuff in the white paint on some of the interior trim. But fo
Also started working on the driver side door panel. This will be another HUGE milestone when it gets done. And seriously, it's a pain. In. The. Ass. Like fo realz.
Door panels look good, any data on the weight vs stock?
g36 monkey
Post Whore
Dude! It looks soooo slick! I wanna see it!
Tally_4.6
More well known than you
*Sitting in my garage waiting for you to drive it over*
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mcglsr2
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Not sure, they are certainly lighter though. The stock panels were surprisingly heavy. I don't have a weight on the stock panels, I will be grab a weight off these guys and post back here.
Thanks mang
*Sitting in my garage wishing I could drive it*
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mcglsr2
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On my scale (which isn't super accurate), I get 4 lbs for the aluminum door panel. On some other forum, listed under weight reduction, supposedly a stock door panel weighs 9 lbs. So I guess a 5 lbs difference per door. Honestly though, I would have thought a stock panel weighed more with all the foam and plastic and stuff. Also, the aluminum door panel doesn't feel 4 lbs. I weighed it twice because I was like GTFO. It really feels like 1 or 2 lbs most. <shrug>
Good to know, my guys have been getting on my about putting in aluminum door panels but I haven't weighed the stock ones and I figured they were relatively light. By my calculations if we were to make them out of .035 aluminum, they would weight about 3.25 lbs. So, including hardware, it sounds like we're in the right range. I wonder if the 9lbs for the stock door panel includes switches etc.
Im sure getting rid of the windows, motor, etc would help a lot. Maybe even take the whole supporting structure for the door out and weld everything up so all we have is the outside body panel. Climbing in and out of windows isn't really my thing but depending on how much weight I can save it may be worth it.
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mcglsr2
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For people that have gone pretty much all track car but still want to retain functioning doors, what I've seen them do is rip pretty much everything out of the door except the door handle mechanism. They gut the windows, internal structure (tracks, motor, etc.) and cut out the bottom portion of the internal sheet metal to make room for nascar bars on the cage. No switches of course, as door locks and windows don't exist anymore. So they are pretty much left with a door skin on the outside and some sheet metal on the top inside for some door rigidity and a place to put the door handle. If you are worried about how un-sexy this looks, you could make some interior half panels or something, above the cut out for the nascar bars. Kind of like the trim panels, but only the top half.
nitroram33
Active Member
My Eclipse approves of this post lol:
Awesome. I was thinking of going so far as to even remove most of the supporting structure, my theory is that a lot of the metal in the door is there to give it enough rigidity to hold up when it is open, so you could essentially remove most of the thick supporting structure and weld it shut, add a couple small braces off of the door bars just to keep the sheet metal from buckling.
nitroram33
Active Member
Yeah, eventually when I get back to finishing the body on the Eclipse I'm going to cut away everything but the skin and make some mounts so I can bolt the skin (with some studs welded onto the back side) on instead of welding it sold should I ever need to take it off to get a passenger seat in or out as it's fairly tight.
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mcglsr2
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Alrighty then. Worked on the master cylinder tonight.
Here's the new Cobra master cylinder being bench-bled:
The old stock 95 GT master cylinder and lines to the proportioning valve:
And the new master cylinder in its new home:
So this completes my brake upgrade to Cobras. I've had Cobra discs and calipers on all 4 corners for quite some time now. With this, I now have the Cobra master cylinder as well. Hopefully I'll get a little more feel out of the pedal now...
Here's the new Cobra master cylinder being bench-bled:
The old stock 95 GT master cylinder and lines to the proportioning valve:
And the new master cylinder in its new home:
So this completes my brake upgrade to Cobras. I've had Cobra discs and calipers on all 4 corners for quite some time now. With this, I now have the Cobra master cylinder as well. Hopefully I'll get a little more feel out of the pedal now...
