well sounds like I got a cam cap with a lose bolt. started it and motor failed on start up, went to re start sounded like I had a clutch go out horrible metal on metal. towed it home got cash to fix it and went for a 2nd start up. started fine no weird sounds did 2 first gear passes nothing. At shut down and I hear a metal on metal. little more testing at 2000rpm I hear metal stressing near piston 7-8 and a weird sound on shut down. I believe I have a cam cap that's lose and a bolt rattling around. Any other things I should look at before I take this cover off?
And motor failure
- Thread starter thugstang
- Start date
Silver95bird
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2016
- Messages
- 494
- Reaction score
- 113
Your other post says xe278 cams. I'd start looking in the valve covers, but then also a compression/leak down test and make sure the PTV is adequate. Sorry, unless I do it myself, I don't trust anyone else's work. Been on the bad end of that too many times.
yeah shop that did my heads charged me $800 I hope they did a good job, but we agued through the whole build. In the end they did 3.5k worth of work to this motor. I'll never take a motor back to them. MPR down in Miami there lead guy is total ass. He hated on the fact I went full edelbrock, hated on the fact I used the 5.0 crank, went with ford racing bolts not ARP hated, Every bolt I replaced with MMR/ford racing bolts, they took out and put "there" bolts in. The only thing I actually asked them to do was check my ring gaps THATS IT! and they charged me 3.5k after quoting me 1.2k. Should have just shipped my motor to MMR but I couldn't afford the shipping after I bought all the parts. Any ways if any of you are looking in to MPR in Boynton beach DONT DO IT!
OLD H2S
Well-Known Member
So what bolts are in the cam caps? Stock are TTY. I have had them come loose by reusing them.
Shoot....be like the rest of us and tare that crap down yourself! We here when you got questions. Ill admit the process is more time consuming ....just ask the member evil!....lol. Best part ....you did it yourself and it was done right!
I had arp bolts the comp cams take a totally different size. i don't have the tester but a local shop has the PTV tool so no need to remove heads they said 60 bucks to check it. I already can tell that's my issue also have a blown head gasket burning water so i just drained radiator and it stopped the white smoke at exhaust. when the car warms up (b4 fluid drain) i get crazy noise so think i got a bent valve in cylinder 8.
OLD H2S
Well-Known Member
The valves are hard, if they bend they will never seat, the shaft takes out the guide, the jam ruins the roller cam follower with possible scoring to the cam.
If any small pieces are loose the the oil pump the teeth will have marks on them and you must check them, they should be shiny polished, if not something went through the oil system and will clog the lifters and make noise on start up of your new build. Very difficult to find competent help, everyone lies.
If any small pieces are loose the the oil pump the teeth will have marks on them and you must check them, they should be shiny polished, if not something went through the oil system and will clog the lifters and make noise on start up of your new build. Very difficult to find competent help, everyone lies.
