Anyone putting down 300rwhp or more N/A......

Dalamar

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I was at 280 HP 318 TQ LOADED dyno.
lower elevation and or dyno jet and I"d be over the 300 mark...

now that I've gone a few rounds, I have to say that there's more to perf than peak dyno numbers. I'd be more concerned with the curve.
to make serious power you need a blower (remember your motor is 281 CI), it's cheaper and more usable than a bizziloion motor mods.

Power loss = 21% from a manual, 23% from an automatic.
 

AaRoN

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Dalamar said:
I was at 280 HP 318 TQ LOADED dyno.
lower elevation and or dyno jet and I"d be over the 300 mark...

now that I've gone a few rounds, I have to say that there's more to perf than peak dyno numbers. I'd be more concerned with the curve.
to make serious power you need a blower (remember your motor is 281 CI), it's cheaper and more usable than a bizziloion motor mods.

Power loss = 21% from a manual, 23% from an automatic.

Which is what I am most concerned with. That statement is used often in the "Turbo'd cars" argument...

I thought the powertrain loss from a manual was more like 18%?
 

Knuckles281

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Dalamar said:
I was at 280 HP 318 TQ LOADED dyno.
lower elevation and or dyno jet and I"d be over the 300 mark...

now that I've gone a few rounds, I have to say that there's more to perf than peak dyno numbers. I'd be more concerned with the curve.
to make serious power you need a blower (remember your motor is 281 CI), it's cheaper and more usable than a bizziloion motor mods.

Power loss = 21% from a manual, 23% from an automatic.

You're right, rather than MAX hp and tq, it's better to have a higher AVERAGE hp rating...essentially this means, that the area under the curve on your dyno sheet determines your performance level. The more area under each curve (hp and tq), the stronger your car will be all around
 

Dalamar

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Roger that Knuckles!


Aaron, that was for a stock manual I believe, most of the loss is actually through the rear end, but you can't do anything about that.
 

Dalamar

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I'm not sure about how gear ratio effects that?

Anyone know?
 

bluestang96

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OP, as has already been said again and again in this thread FI is probably the cheaper route to get over your power level goal. But you seem set on going the NA and spending the money. First, why have you chosen the comp 278 cams? These are pretty serious bump sticks (as you probably know) and being such utlilze high rpms. Also those cams have many times required notched pistons. Secondly fully ported heads can be a great mod but without good supporting mods they might not perform like you thought. Also with such big breathers as 278 cams and ported heads you put a stock PI intake on it. A gasket matched aftermarket intake would probably be a better choice. I suppose what I'm trying to say is don't fall prey to buying the biggest cam or most expensive heads trying to increase your power. I have been down the same road and I defiantely think there is something more unique about a car that makes good power NA as compared to FI. Good luck. :thumb:
 
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98mstanggt

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Ha ha seem like we talking more about drivetrain now.....bout time somebody got back on the subject but yeah
bluestang96 said:
OP, as has already been said again and again in this thread FI is probably the cheaper route to get over your power level goal. But you seem set on going the NA and spending the money. First, why have you chosen the comp 278 cams? These are pretty serious bump sticks (as you probably know) and being such utlilze high rpms. Also those cams have many times required notched pistons. Secondly fully ported heads can be a great mod but without good supporting mods they might not perform like you thought. Also with such big breathers as 278 cams and ported heads you put a stock PI intake on it. A gasket matched aftermarket intake would probably be a better choice. I suppose what I'm trying to say is don't fall prey to buying the biggest cam or most expensive heads trying to increase your power. I have been down the same road and I defiantely think there is something more unique about a car that makes good power NA as compared to FI. Good luck. :thumb:
Yeah i agree with u about the cams....... i might just stick with the 270ah or 274ah cams............. do u have any aftermarket intake in mind............
 

bluestang96

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98mstanggt said:
Ha ha seem like we talking more about drivetrain now.....bout time somebody got back on the subject but yeah
bluestang96 said:
OP, as has already been said again and again in this thread FI is probably the cheaper route to get over your power level goal. But you seem set on going the NA and spending the money. First, why have you chosen the comp 278 cams? These are pretty serious bump sticks (as you probably know) and being such utlilze high rpms. Also those cams have many times required notched pistons. Secondly fully ported heads can be a great mod but without good supporting mods they might not perform like you thought. Also with such big breathers as 278 cams and ported heads you put a stock PI intake on it. A gasket matched aftermarket intake would probably be a better choice. I suppose what I'm trying to say is don't fall prey to buying the biggest cam or most expensive heads trying to increase your power. I have been down the same road and I defiantely think there is something more unique about a car that makes good power NA as compared to FI. Good luck. :thumb:
Yeah i agree with u about the cams....... i might just stick with the 270ah or 274ah cams............. do u have any aftermarket intake in mind............

I mentioned the aftermarket intake due to ported heads and very aggressive cams. A stock PI intake will take you to the 300 rwhp door and beyond but to get the most out of the those other mods a different intake such as a bullit or P-51 would be a better fit. Just keep in mind the powerband keeps moving up and up with these more agressive cam profiles and ported heads becoming less streetable.
 
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98mstanggt

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I see some people say supercharger is the cheapest route..... I see it like this im not going just going to buy a supercharger kit and then be done with it................ if i get a blower ima get built internals crankshaft,rods,piston,ect which most people dont do then wonder why they bottom end blow up.......plus all my parts plus labor is under 5500 which would be alot more then that if i went the blower route with all internals getting upgraded and all that other good stuff...... so im sticking with N/a for now i'll worry bout a blower later on...........
 

Dalamar

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98mstanggt said:
I see some people say supercharger is the cheapest route..... I see it like this im not going just going to buy a supercharger kit and then be done with it................ if i get a blower ima get built internals crankshaft,rods,piston,ect which most people dont do then wonder why they bottom end blow up.......plus all my parts plus labor is under 5500 which would be alot more then that if i went the blower route with all internals getting upgraded and all that other good stuff...... so im sticking with N/a for now i'll worry bout a blower later on...........

If you stay below the low 400 HP range, you will be fine with a good tune.

Its the guys who keep pushing it that blow stuff up. Detonation will break the stock rode under boost, but there are plenty of guys running boost with no problems.
 

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Just answering the original question. My ws6 puts down 307 at the wheels.
 

Knuckles281

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98mstanggt said:
I see some people say supercharger is the cheapest route..... I see it like this im not going just going to buy a supercharger kit and then be done with it................ if i get a blower ima get built internals crankshaft,rods,piston,ect which most people dont do then wonder why they bottom end blow up.......plus all my parts plus labor is under 5500 which would be alot more then that if i went the blower route with all internals getting upgraded and all that other good stuff...... so im sticking with N/a for now i'll worry bout a blower later on...........

When I get my motor finish (waiting on install) I'll have over 300.....a supercharger is definitely cheaper than what I did. I kind of wish I would have gone the supercharger route, but then I wouldn't get my lopey exhaust, not to mention I'm just kind of opposed to boost :(
 
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98mstanggt

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Knuckles281 said:
98mstanggt said:
I see some people say supercharger is the cheapest route..... I see it like this im not going just going to buy a supercharger kit and then be done with it................ if i get a blower ima get built internals crankshaft,rods,piston,ect which most people dont do then wonder why they bottom end blow up.......plus all my parts plus labor is under 5500 which would be alot more then that if i went the blower route with all internals getting upgraded and all that other good stuff...... so im sticking with N/a for now i'll worry bout a blower later on...........

When I get my motor finish (waiting on install) I'll have over 300.....a supercharger is definitely cheaper than what I did. I kind of wish I would have gone the supercharger route, but then I wouldn't get my lopey exhaust, not to mention I'm just kind of opposed to boost :(

Maybe it is but not the way I would do it for example.... I'm a fan of the twin screw superchargers I personally would get a kenne bell kit which is 4999 which is like 9-14 of pounds I think..... Thats 5k of top which is around how much its going to cost on what I'm doing n/a now..... Not to mention a cobra crankshaft, Manley rods, pistons,etc that I would cause i would a smaller pulley trying get as much boost as possible and I know the stock motor can't handle that.... Plus like u said I love that old school muscle car sound anyway.....
 

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Knuckles281 said:
98mstanggt said:
I see some people say supercharger is the cheapest route..... I see it like this im not going just going to buy a supercharger kit and then be done with it................ if i get a blower ima get built internals crankshaft,rods,piston,ect which most people dont do then wonder why they bottom end blow up.......plus all my parts plus labor is under 5500 which would be alot more then that if i went the blower route with all internals getting upgraded and all that other good stuff...... so im sticking with N/a for now i'll worry bout a blower later on...........

When I get my motor finish (waiting on install) I'll have over 300.....a supercharger is definitely cheaper than what I did. I kind of wish I would have gone the supercharger route, but then I wouldn't get my lopey exhaust, not to mention I'm just kind of opposed to boost :(

Nice.... Whats going to be your set-up, to get you over 300rwhp?
 
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98mstanggt

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My setup right now is



Stage 3 ported heads
Pi intake (not sure)
274ah Comp Cams
Beehive springs
Mac Long Tubes Headers
Mac Prochamber H-Pipe
Flow-Master Cat-Back (already got)
BBK CAI (already got)
Professional product 75mm t/b(already got)
with upper plenum (already got)
Ud pulleys
0.020 pistons
2400+ Stall
3.55/3.73 GearsI think that's it......
 

Adam

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Is it the number you are concerned with or do you want it to be fast? I have seen 300rwhp cars struggle to run mid-high 13's and then I have seen(owned) 260rwhp cars run mid 12's. :) Dyno numbers are just something for your signature. :thumb:
 
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98mstanggt

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Adam said:
Is it the number you are concerned with or do you want it to be fast? I have seen 300rwhp cars struggle to run mid-high 13's and then I have seen(owned) 260rwhp cars run mid 12's. :) Dyno numbers are just something for your signature. :thumb:


I personally don't care about dyno numbers cause they are not always accurate but it would be nice to see numbers over 300rwhp and I really just wanna go fast without buying nitrous or a blower cause I would rather have a 400hp car n/a rather then one with a blower/nitrous...... Not saying I'm get 400 but u get my point......
 

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