Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[07GtS197]

Are you interested in selling your Tri ax handle?

 

[Snorky]

Are you interested in selling your Tri ax handle?

Just the handle? Lol what is your zip code? I'll see how much it is to mail it out.

 

[07GtS197]

Just the handle? Lol what is your zip code? I'll see how much it is to mail it out.

33912. A popular mod from years ago was a pro 5.0 base with a tri ax handle. I have the joke of a handle that comes with the pro 5.0 in my gray 03 gt and I hate it.

 

[Snorky]

33912. A popular mod from years ago was a pro 5.0 base with a tri ax handle. I have the joke of a handle that comes with the pro 5.0 in my gray 03 gt and I hate it.

I'll see if I can make my way to UPS store today. When I took the handle off and held it next to the chrome one I was shocked out light thr steeda one was. Light as a feather, meanwhile that big chrome job you could use as a baton. Loved the feel of the steeda handle. Just didn't like the reach, felt like I was twisting my body to put it into 3rd.

 

[07GtS197]

I'll see if I can make my way to UPS store today. When I took the handle off and held it next to the chrome one I was shocked out light thr steeda one was. Light as a feather, meanwhile that big chrome job you could use as a baton. Loved the feel of the steeda handle. Just didn't like the reach, felt like I was twisting my body to put it into 3rd.

I’m used to it. My white 02 gt, first gray 02 gt and my silver 01 gt all had tri ax shifters.

 

[Musturd]

You see this video yet

 

[Snorky]

You see this video yet

Lol yeah I just saw that, I'm late to the party. I took his advice and grabbed an E350 oil pan. Should arrive Saturday. Will flip the motor mounts once I get the shortblock ring gap squared away and pray the intake will clear the fire wall. I see he used UPR adjustable motor mounts which is a good idea. It can give a 1/4" drop to help clear the hood. Will need every bit of help I can get with that.

 

[96blak54]

Dang thats alot of weight on the front of a Mustang! I mean its cool as can be, but I feel the 5.4l 2v I got in mine is super heavy. Distributing weight to the rear like battery relocation, keeping the spare tire intact and adding weight just so the cars nose doesnt feel so heavy. I guess swapping to a light Kmember with tube A-arms, removing the ABS motor and replacing as much aluminum in place of steel as possible could balance out the car, but never achieve a 50/50 weight ratio

 

[ttocs]

you could always solve the problem of the ride height along with the extra weight, and save a few pounds with air ride. Think of how much lighter 4 bags, an aluminum tank and a compressor are compared to 4 sets of springs

 

[Musturd]

Lol yeah I just saw that, I'm late to the party. I took his advice and grabbed an E350 oil pan. Should arrive Saturday. Will flip the motor mounts once I get the shortblock ring gap squared away and pray the intake will clear the fire wall. I see he used UPR adjustable motor mounts which is a good idea. It can give a 1/4" drop to help clear the hood. Will need every bit of help I can get with that.

Popped up in my feed on tube this morning so gave it a watch , he had lots of good info for sure . Car must have been early 2000’s build back in the day with the graphics

 

[Snorky]

Dang thats alot of weight on the front of a Mustang! I mean its cool as can be, but I feel the 5.4l 2v I got in mine is super heavy. Distributing weight to the rear like battery relocation, keeping the spare tire intact and adding weight just so the cars nose doesnt feel so heavy. I guess swapping to a light Kmember with tube A-arms, removing the ABS motor and replacing as much aluminum in place of steel as possible could balance out the car, but never achieve a 50/50 weight ratio

Honestly it's the same weight as a terminator engine with blower. About 620-640. So it's not horrible, lol still a pig though. I will be using a UPR tubular K to help offset thr weight. As for abs delete, the previous owner did cut the rear abs sensors and the abs reluctor wheels are missing from the axles. >_< wonder how much weight that saves...

 

[Snorky]

No ground breaking updates here but I figured I would write up some little things. First off. Here is my new E350 oil pan. This is a bolt in "low profile" oil pan. So it won't stick down as much as that ridiculous f350 pan.

This should hopefully clear the K member. Currently I am messing with the motor mounts.
So I switch the motor mounts side to side and ground a little off of the single tab. This moved the engine forward considerably. But not to the stock mustang position.

What I will do is mock bolt up the oil pan, zip the motor mount bolts in. Loosely bolt the K up and check the clearance between the tubular K and the oil pan. I will also be making a relocation bracket for the passenger side to bring the motor mounts rearward to use the second set of bosses. Passenger side doesn't not have that extra upper boss so I will relocate it further back with some 1/4" steel stock. I wonder if the E350 pan will be too far forward and hit the K member though. We will see. This could take quite a bit of testing.

I went and looked at the heads and dug through my collection of modular parts. I have located some freeze plugs for the heads. I need to make a driving tool and see if I can drive them in to whatever thr "set depth" is. Does anyone know if these need sealant on them?

Test fit the coolant/oil filter relocation.
As well as the water pump


Anyone have any idea where to get these oil galley plugs for the block? I think i have 1 in my bag? I think?.. at least it looks like the right one.


Here is the E350 oil pan with a 4v high volume oil pump pickup. This will need to be customized. So I ordered a second high volume oil pump for the tube and I ordered an E350 oil pickup tube. This way I have a representation of what to make or have made.

 

[Snorky]

Well my wife and daughter went up to cape vos to her parents this week. So I had 3 evenings to hammer things out.

Disassembled the v10 shortblock. Opened the top ring from .010"-.016" gap opened the 2nd ring from .016"-.022" gap. Reassembled everything with new rods bolts. Now she spins happier. I realized the sound from rotating and the coarseness is from ford's factory hone job for seating the ductile iron rings. The factory hone job is in the 30-45 RA so it sounds like a zipper. It'll smooth out once it's started lol those rings will seat fast like a factory unit. Hammered in the front block galley plug. Hammered in the missing freeze plug on the head. Wiped the bores with a light coat of assembly lube since this thing will probably sit a bit. Cleaned and stoned the deck. Shocked the locating dowels in. Head gaskets and heads are on. Used the tty bolts 30 lbs 90° 90° yay..

Figured out which cam was drivers and popped it in. Didn't torque the caps yet though. Removed the factory balance shaft gear and the passenger cam spacer and cleaned them. Today I cleaned the balance shaft and trigger wheel(39 tooth for all of you interested)

I bolted the oil pan up to test fit motormount positions. Tried my relocation brackets to bring it to a factory mustang position. K MEMBER hit the oil pan. Turned them upside down. Wouldn't fit in the K slots. Then went normal orientation. But swapped sides like so. it moves the engine ~1.25" back from factory position, but the K member clears!!! Great success!!

Now I just need to locate oil pump bolts, timing guide bolts, cam bolts, and more oil pan bolts. Then I can continue the process and get to timing this hunk of pig iron.


Anyway the car was looking pretty so I snapped some pics.

 

[Snorky]

Special shout out to white and lwarrior. Thanks for the instant responses to my questions!!

 

[white95]

Happy to help

 

[lwarrior1016]

Anytime

 

[Snorky]

Ran up to the garage. Found I had some hardware for the oil pump and guides.. less the one super long m6x60mm, and the rear main seal plate m6x20mm. Guides. Tensioners and pump bolted up(less the one bolt)


torqued down the drivers cam. Aligned the balance shaft and torqued that down as well.

Then in went the passenger cam. Ordered some ARP 10mm cam gear bolts. Then I can get to timing and degreeing this pig.


Brought home some pullies to press some bearings into. Then u can start prepping things like the timing cover

 

[Snorky]

Forgot to mention the camshaft end play is .002" and the balance shaft end play is .004".

Piaton to wall clearance was looking like .0015"-.002" which I think will probably be just fine for hypereutectic pistons.

 

[Snorky]

Nothing super exciting today. Fasteners came for the oil pump/guide and the tesr main seal plate. Cam bolts have shipped!!

Grabbed the pulleys and pressed some bearings into them.

 

[joemomma]

Amazing how quickly "little things" like bolts/nuts/fasteners add up on a project like this.