Lightning Struck
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MeanGrn Gt said:
if he isint very good at it then hell yea,........im fairly speedy on the shifts, i always powershift at the track.
i ran a 13.02 @ 106MPH in the 1/4 im pissed
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if he isint very good at it then hell yea,........im fairly speedy on the shifts, i always powershift at the track.
94twinscrew
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95KBGT said:
What are you really looking to trap? You're doing good for just a stock engine with a 1.5 kb,don't beat yourself up about it. Slicks will really help your 60's,but that stock rear suspension is hurting you. And now it sounds like the t-5 wants to give up the ghost. You could be in the 12.9's with traction,but that's all you're going to see with what you're pushing now. You have to start setting a goal,along with a proper buget. Right now,your engine has two major downfalls.......stock heads,and that little 1.5 blower. A cam won't do much if you don't change the heads. If you want to start putting engine parts on your car that have been time proven to work with a kb,with not too much modification....then here's your list.
Starting with best overall for price and installation
Heads: AFR 165's/or 185's,,World Wsr.,TrickFlows
Cam: Custom grind(Ed Curtis knows how to make a great kb cam),AFM B-31,Wolverine,Steeda 19,F or E cam,and the stocker isn't as bad as some think.
Lower: Gt-40 or Cobra ported, or Holley Systamax I for standard lowers.
Inlet manifolds: Flowzilla inlet upgrade,or a complete flowzilla gt-40 manifold kit.
Blower upgrade to the 2.2 compressor.
That 1.5 only has a peak cfm range of 650cfms(368whp/433fly),where as the 2.0 and 2.2 has a peak range of 980cfms(555whp/653fly). This is the range that the blower starts to trade up hp production, for more heat and parasitic drag. You can throw the best cam and heads in the world on the engine,but with that 1.5 blower,you'll never get it past 400-410whp...never. Now with the bolt-ons listed above,you can achieve around 430-440whp with 14psi,but add meth to that and the number will be more like 475-480. Up the boost,and we typically see an additional average of 11whp per psi after 14.7psi with the 2.2/2.0 with Meth and a "safe tune"(i.e. not meth dependent)
well my t5 is fixing to go boom, sometimes i cant get it in gear, and when its in neutral theres a horrible noise. The tremec 3550 will bolt right into my bellhousing and i can use the driveshaft, clutch, shifter, flywheel and bellhousing that i have in there right now correct?
i have to get this tranny fixed before i do anything else.
i have to get this tranny fixed before i do anything else.
OnyxCobra
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I think that's a decent time considering you're spinning. I went with the AFR 165 heads, i know they are direct bolt on heads. I believe the Trickflow Twisted Wedge are also.
MeanGrn Gt
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Snakebit said:
powershifting a t5 isnt a good idea. 3rd gear will go bye bye pretty easily. If your decent with the manual tranny you can shift pretty quick without doing a true powershift and not lose much time. I wouldnt dare powershift a stock t5.
the tremec 3550 is same thing as the tko 500 and 600 i believe which means you will need everything for the tranny swap (crossmember, driveshaft, bellhousing etc.). astro performance makes there own stronger version of the t5 called the super t5 i think. It is similar to the g force t5 but it is supposed to be a little better. Id stick that in as its a direct bolt in and no extra costs of swap parts. I was planning on putting one in as my t5 grinds a little but money is to tight to allow me to buy a new tranny so ill pry just rebuild the stock t5 :-[
Lightning Struck
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MeanGrn Gt said:
I have ALWAYS powershifted all my cars when I go to the track from my 91Gt all the way to my 99 cobra I have now, im not saying its good for the trans ;D but its something I have done on a regular basis when on the strip. I have been lucky with mine, with all the trips down the 1320 I have NEVER broke a trans :angel:. If your not a good shifter dont even bother with trying it
you will tear your tranny a new :aresehole: for sure. if your trying to get the absolute max et out of your car and that last hundreth of a sec matters to you powershifting can get it for you, if you dont want to risk your tranny shift like your grandma would :hammer:
95KBGT said:
107-108 is not bad for what your have man IMO....get some traction and go grab some gears. As for your 3550 question...the only thing you'll need to do is get a driveshaft spacer, I have one in mine as well. You have a mph for mid 12's without question...just drive it and be confident in your shifts but fix your trans first :thumb:
ok im getting mixed answers here fellas, im looking for a direct replacement for the T5. i dropped 1,200 on the flywheel and clutch not 2 months ago. I need something that is going to use what i have w/ shifter with minamal extra parts purchases. So i need a drive shaft spacer? same cross member can be used correct?
im looking for a nice performance tranny. Can i build up the T5 to hold more power? is it worth it?
im looking for a nice performance tranny. Can i build up the T5 to hold more power? is it worth it?
MeanGrn Gt
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astro has a good rep. I was planning on picking up a new super t5 from them but unless i win the lottery or someone donates 1600 it wont be happening :-\
how many times did you powershift your fox brian? You must be one of the lucky ones. Powershifting is hard on trannys and t5's are weak (especially 3rd gear).
This reminds me i need to rebuild mine before i think of even going to the strip :slap:
paul go check out astro performance and there super t5 tranny. I think they are like 1500 or so and can handle plenty of power. Its a direct replacement
how many times did you powershift your fox brian? You must be one of the lucky ones. Powershifting is hard on trannys and t5's are weak (especially 3rd gear).
This reminds me i need to rebuild mine before i think of even going to the strip :slap:
paul go check out astro performance and there super t5 tranny. I think they are like 1500 or so and can handle plenty of power. Its a direct replacement
95KBGT said:
input shaft is the same size and spline on a 3550 unless it's been upgraded to a 26 spline. I used the stock cross member didn't even need to modify it and added a drive shaft spacer which was only 50 bucks and it was from steeda....but at the same time it'd be a good idea to get a shifter if you can pull it off money wise. You'll need a tremec bell housing as well since the input shaft is shorter on the tremec compared to have you have now which is why you'll need the d/s spacer to make up for the tranny being 1/2 closer to the engine after all is said and done. I'm tired and I dont' think that made much sense but i tried for ya man.
Lightning Struck
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MeanGrn Gt said:
uhhhh, its hard to say for sure I was really hard on that car :dunno: it had about half a dozen trips to the track and then on the street if I was getting on it about 50% of the time I would PS it. I did have it rebuilt once but other than that one time I never had trouble with it. By the way that one rebuild was for the syncs. I have been lucky I would say from my 91 and all the way to my cobra now and about a dozen cars in the middle I have PSed all of them and never busted a tranny.
MeanGrn Gt
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i just dont think i would ever try to powershift a stock t5. They have a bad rep so i dont even want to push it. I can shift it pretty fast w/o powershifting it (well actually not the 1-2 because it grinds like a mofo ) . They sound pretty bad when they decide to blow up... well i was looking for the vid of the t5 breaking but cant find it :dunno:
) . They sound pretty bad when they decide to blow up... well i was looking for the vid of the t5 breaking but cant find it :dunno:i meant front tires not rear....a tremec 3550 should not allow you to change your clutch unless it somehow has an upgraded 26 spline input shaft which mine does so I have a clutch for a 26 spline obviously...my previous mustang with a regular tremec did not so i just ran a king cobra clutch in it. Take it with a grain of salt, I have one in the car right now from when i swapped from the AODE...it will bolt up and it will work. You'll just need the d/s spacer, trans, bellhousing, should come with a stock shifter...can't think of anything else off the top of my head. I know there are threads all over corral and stangnet as well about this same topic. Just trying to help
KB.
What gears do you have in the rear?
Also, all you need to do is buy the 2.95 gearset and rebuild kit from D&D Motorsports. Assemble this kit, and you will have what's know as a "World Class" T-5. I have seen several cars that ran repeatable 10's with World Class T-5's. Plus, it's much more afforable than getting a whole new tranny, and you wont need driveshaft spacers, a fox body bell housing, or anything like that, because you can use your normal input shaft (which is 5/8" longer than a foxes, which is why you would need the fox bellhousing and spacer on anything with a fox length input shaft)
Honestly, I think there's something up with your drivetrain that's causing a lot of parasitic loss, or the fact that you are just spinning so bad. If you really think about it, if you spend the first 300 feet spinning and not accellerating, then you are basically starting the run at the 330 mark. That is why your mph, and ET will be poor.
I've heard and seen several cars with heads, intake and cam packages, and 3.73's - 4.10's that are making 5-20 hp less than your car run 12.80's- 12.60's. It's totally possible. however, you REALLY need to keep in mind that you have a roots blower on your car, which means that you have instantaneous torque at your command. 390ft. pounds if I recall. That's a lot of torque. That same amount of torque would be produced by a N/A motor making about 425-450 hp, depending on the size.
Torque is what spins your tires and makes you accellerate. HorsePower is actually just a numerical derivative of torque, it's totally useless generally, all HP will do is keep you moving after the torque has gotten you moving.
What are your shift points?
Also, it's not like you ran 13.99, or 13.59 or anything, you ran 13.02, that's pretty freakin close. Just give it time, and work out how to best drive your car based on it's power.
What gears do you have in the rear?
Also, all you need to do is buy the 2.95 gearset and rebuild kit from D&D Motorsports. Assemble this kit, and you will have what's know as a "World Class" T-5. I have seen several cars that ran repeatable 10's with World Class T-5's. Plus, it's much more afforable than getting a whole new tranny, and you wont need driveshaft spacers, a fox body bell housing, or anything like that, because you can use your normal input shaft (which is 5/8" longer than a foxes, which is why you would need the fox bellhousing and spacer on anything with a fox length input shaft)
Honestly, I think there's something up with your drivetrain that's causing a lot of parasitic loss, or the fact that you are just spinning so bad. If you really think about it, if you spend the first 300 feet spinning and not accellerating, then you are basically starting the run at the 330 mark. That is why your mph, and ET will be poor.
I've heard and seen several cars with heads, intake and cam packages, and 3.73's - 4.10's that are making 5-20 hp less than your car run 12.80's- 12.60's. It's totally possible. however, you REALLY need to keep in mind that you have a roots blower on your car, which means that you have instantaneous torque at your command. 390ft. pounds if I recall. That's a lot of torque. That same amount of torque would be produced by a N/A motor making about 425-450 hp, depending on the size.
Torque is what spins your tires and makes you accellerate. HorsePower is actually just a numerical derivative of torque, it's totally useless generally, all HP will do is keep you moving after the torque has gotten you moving.
What are your shift points?
Also, it's not like you ran 13.99, or 13.59 or anything, you ran 13.02, that's pretty freakin close. Just give it time, and work out how to best drive your car based on it's power.
I remember when I was trying to break into the 11s. I had just run a 12.11 and this guy walked up to talk to me about my car. I told him I was going to go 11s the next run. He asked what I was going to do to run that number. I said: "drive faster."
I went out and ran 11.92.
The point here is that there's no substitute for seat time. The more you run it, the better you'll get.
I went out and ran 11.92.
The point here is that there's no substitute for seat time. The more you run it, the better you'll get.
