Is the LMR 4.10 Gear kit worth it?

cobrajeff96

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Man, IDK exactly what it is but my last diff was whisper quiet and that's saying something. An aluminum IRS diff solidly mounted to the subframe which was in turn solidly mounted to the chassis. I should've been able to hear it but nope. Powered By Ford in Orlando built it and they nailed it. That, plus lightened gear set and REM polished might've had something to do with it.
 

I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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Yes, 3.55's are the max I would ever go in a Fox/SN95. The 4V benefits big time for sure with 4.10's or more, but you are just sacrificing the drivability. You end up with a car that makes a racket everywhere it goes, while not being all that much faster
I had to pause here.

Have you ever been in a 4v Cobra? The T45's gears are so long you can do 70mph in 2nd with the stock 3.27 rear ratio. Even 3.73's don't make a big difference on them, cruising RPM barely changes.

Going from the 3.27's to 4.30's shaves an entire second off the 1/4 mile, putting the car well into the 12's on a drag radial and allowing the 4v to keep up with modern Coyote cars.

With my 4.10's I'm only turning 2400rpm cruising down the highway, that's really not high at all. Average gas mileage has improved because city driving is done in one higher gear, the car stays in it's powerband more providing more torque, requiring less time spent accelerating the car to speed.



Totally different animal than the old 302 you're seemingly accustomed to, where they ran out of breath at 5,200rpm.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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I had to pause here.

Have you ever been in a 4v Cobra? The T45's gears are so long you can do 70mph in 2nd with the stock 3.27 rear ratio. Even 3.73's don't make a big difference on them, cruising RPM barely changes.

Going from the 3.27's to 4.30's shaves an entire second off the 1/4 mile, putting the car well into the 12's on a drag radial and allowing the 4v to keep up with modern Coyote cars.

With my 4.10's I'm only turning 2400rpm cruising down the highway, that's really not high at all. Average gas mileage has improved because city driving is done in one higher gear, the car stays in it's powerband more providing more torque, requiring less time spent accelerating the car to speed.



Totally different animal than the old 302 you're seemingly accustomed to, where they ran out of breath at 5,200rpm.
I agree with you 100%, but my thinking is that while they are much better for hard acceleration and having fun, they make just driving the car around normally kind of annoying. I don’t like having to wind every gear out to at the very least 2500 RPM to keep up with stop and go traffic. When traffic picks up, 3000+ RPM. Too loud and bothersome to have to ALWAYS deal with, at least for me.

I like the ability to stay quiet. I suppose you could use 5th, but the issue is first is still way too short, and I don’t like starting in second. Makes first literally useless in my eyes. Each to his own though.
 

cobrajeff96

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I do love my T-56 Mag 0.50 6th with 4.10s a lot, but I must also admit it's borderline comparable to what you're saying with regards to slow traffic in densely packed areas. I make it a point to be home before sundown and I don't even start the car on a Sunday morning (don't want to draw the ire of uptight German neighbors, lol).
 

Terrorist 5.0

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I do love my T-56 Mag 0.50 6th with 4.10s a lot, but I must also admit it's borderline comparable to what you're saying with regards to slow traffic in densely packed areas. I make it a point to be home before sundown and I don't even start the car on a Sunday morning (don't want to draw the ire of uptight German neighbors, lol).
T56 and 4.10’s is like 3.55’s and a T5 assuming a 2.97 first gear. I think it works out nicely, closer ratio transmissions with the 4V.
 

Snorky

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I had to pause here.

Have you ever been in a 4v Cobra? The T45's gears are so long you can do 70mph in 2nd with the stock 3.27 rear ratio. Even 3.73's don't make a big difference on them, cruising RPM barely changes.

Going from the 3.27's to 4.30's shaves an entire second off the 1/4 mile, putting the car well into the 12's on a drag radial and allowing the 4v to keep up with modern Coyote cars.

With my 4.10's I'm only turning 2400rpm cruising down the highway, that's really not high at all. Average gas mileage has improved because city driving is done in one higher gear, the car stays in it's powerband more providing more torque, requiring less time spent accelerating the car to speed.



Totally different animal than the old 302 you're seemingly accustomed to, where they ran out of breath at 5,200rpm.
I had 4.10s in my 2v with a tr3650 a decade ago with a blower vented to atmosphere. On the highway at 80 it would be churning nearly 3k rpm. Although fun and wild to drive, it was deafening when your highway trip was more than 20 minutes.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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I had 4.10s in my 2v with a tr3650 a decade ago with a blower vented to atmosphere. On the highway at 80 it would be churning nearly 3k rpm. Although fun and wild to drive, it was deafening when your highway trip was more than 20 minutes.
Especially with exhaust mods which 99% of Mustang owners have. I like my highway RPM 2K. Any more than that and I am no longer cruising. I’m trying to get somewhere a little quickly.
 

shovel

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With a mostly stock 302 and 3.08's on glue I just spin 1st. The first time was literally my first time on glue and I didn't know what to expect so I mashed the gas deeper than I had traction for. The 2nd time I tried to roll into it and stay stuck but it didn't matter.

Not sure what benefit I'd get outta deeper gears there.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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I would just like to mention that I don’t know where all the hate for stock gears (3.08/3.27) come from. In Shovel’s video, he can still get through the gears in reasonable time, and keep in mind, it will feel way better in person rather than just observing on video. 3.08 doesn’t deserve hate!

Short gears are overrated.
 

cobrajeff96

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T56 and 4.10’s is like 3.55’s and a T5 assuming a 2.97 first gear. I think it works out nicely, closer ratio transmissions with the 4V.
I think it depends on what you're after and the current power output. But then if you're really involved in modding in general, it can even go so far as to incorporate suspension design and even differential configuration.

I love what I got currently because it just launches out of the hole, as the 0.50 6th gear set is close ratio from 1 to 4, and then 5 and 6 are wide as hell (especially 6th). It's kind of the opposite of how you'd actually want it out here in Germany being on the high speed autobahn (out here you'd want the close ratio for 4/5/6 instead). But gt dayum is this thing fun on the streets and country roads.

I bring up the suspension and diff aspects (and even tires too) because a light weight diff and suspension components can actually sub in for a gear ratio (3.73 and beyond) as it will spool faster. Same with the driveshaft and flywheel too. And hell even lightweight rotating assemblies.

There's a lot that can go into this, but suffice to say I'm not really into drag racing. Though, a lot of the same principles apply to fun street driving and professional circuit racing too.
 

Snorky

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I would just like to mention that I don’t know where all the hate for stock gears (3.08/3.27) come from. In Shovel’s video, he can still get through the gears in reasonable time, and keep in mind, it will feel way better in person rather than just observing on video. 3.08 doesn’t deserve hate!

Short gears are overrated.
On my turbocharged 2v It has stock gearing again, lol went full circle. Also depends on what you have done to the car. The 4.10s and 3.73s were fun on an NA or blower car. But the higher your power levels the more useless the steep gearing becomes.(what every internet jockey will state Is "oh just put 28" slicks on it"... everyday driving on the street? What are you nuts?) That and you realize slamming gears is what's slowing you down. Or you run out of gear before going through the traps in thr top of 4th. So you cut back on the amount of shifts that are required for a pull, mire mph per gear
 

Snorky

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I think it depends on what you're after and the current power output. But then if you're really involved in modding in general, it can even go so far as to incorporate suspension design and even differential configuration.

I love what I got currently because it just launches out of the hole, as the 0.50 6th gear set is close ratio from 1 to 4, and then 5 and 6 are wide as hell (especially 6th). It's kind of the opposite of how you'd actually want it out here in Germany being on the high speed autobahn (out here you'd want the close ratio for 4/5/6 instead). But gt dayum is this thing fun on the streets and country roads.

I bring up the suspension and diff aspects (and even tires too) because a light weight diff and suspension components can actually sub in for a gear ratio (3.73 and beyond) as it will spool faster. Same with the driveshaft and flywheel too. And hell even lightweight rotating assemblies.

There's a lot that can go into this, but suffice to say I'm not really into drag racing. Though, a lot of the same principles apply to fun street driving and professional circuit racing too.


You make a really good point about high-speed autobahn driving. I would be fearful with any 5th/6thz gear long pulls with a big turbocharger lifting a cylinder head. Even with arp head studs.
 

cobrajeff96

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Even on a built Coyote block? (assuming ARP studs are just part of the overall build)

In reality, the hotter the motor and how you drive it ultimately determines life span I suppose. It's my dream to get this gen2 longblock built in the states by someone like FFRE and just tell them don't worry about the cost, and then bring it back to Europe and hurt all the feelings. :p
 
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Dinadeira

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Hey, just wanted to update, I just finished installing the 4.30's myself this weekend! This is my first time working on a differential, and I'm very proud of it, because I took it for a test drive and there was no noises from the rear!!! (No whining or clunking to speak of, woo!)

I guess we'll see how I like it for casual street driving, but first impressions from my test drive are positive. I really can feel that extra torque now and the engine rev's up significantly faster now! I haven't had the chance to take it on the highway yet, so we'll see how I feel about that. But now that I know the process and have the tools, I can always just switch back to my stock 3.27's if I so wish :)

I was wondering, what do you all think of the break in period? My gears were from Yukon and they said "no hard acceleration within the first 500 miles" :'(
With it being more of a weekend car, it's gonna be a while till I hit 500 miles. I don't know if I can control myself for that long, lol. Any advice?
Edit: I misread my break in procedure, it actually says "No Hard Acceleration in the first 100 miles" and "do a gear oil change at 500 miles". Not as bad as I thought :)
 
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I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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Hey, just wanted to update, I just finished installing the 4.30's myself this weekend! This is my first time working on a differential, and I'm very proud of it, because I took it for a test drive and there was no noises from the rear!!! (No whining or clunking to speak of, woo!)

I guess we'll see how I like it for casual street driving, but first impressions from my test drive are positive. I really can feel that extra torque now and the engine rev's up significantly faster now! I haven't had the chance to take it on the highway yet, so we'll see how I feel about that. But now that I know the process and have the tools, I can always just switch back to my stock 3.27's if I so wish :)

I was wondering, what do you all think of the break in period? My gears were from Yukon and they said "no hard acceleration within the first 500 miles" :'(
With it being more of a weekend car, it's gonna be a while till I hit 500 miles. I don't know if I can control myself for that long, lol. Any advice?
Highly recommend keeping the RPM's low for 500 miles, there is a break-in period just like for piston rings, anything that needs to mate to another surface. At 500 miles, change the gear oil and then you can have at it.

I get it, I drove my Cobra 200 miles last year(yes really).. just drive it more, it's a 90's rattle-box and trust me when I say all automobiles are shit-boxes on wheels.

In the mean time I'll work on taking my own advice. You & I can both drive them more together.
 

Snorky

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Hey, just wanted to update, I just finished installing the 4.30's myself this weekend! This is my first time working on a differential, and I'm very proud of it, because I took it for a test drive and there was no noises from the rear!!! (No whining or clunking to speak of, woo!)

I guess we'll see how I like it for casual street driving, but first impressions from my test drive are positive. I really can feel that extra torque now and the engine rev's up significantly faster now! I haven't had the chance to take it on the highway yet, so we'll see how I feel about that. But now that I know the process and have the tools, I can always just switch back to my stock 3.27's if I so wish :)

I was wondering, what do you all think of the break in period? My gears were from Yukon and they said "no hard acceleration within the first 500 miles" :'(
With it being more of a weekend car, it's gonna be a while till I hit 500 miles. I don't know if I can control myself for that long, lol. Any advice?
Drive it to work every day for a bit
 

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