Just picked up 2000 Mustang GT Steeda build #0048

DropTopPony

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I always think 17's are too small for the SN's and 18's look perfect IMO.

I would go with the Steeda wheels considering there aren't many Steeda cars around.
 

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I honestly like the wheels you have now more and would have them repaired and even widened in the rear to stay true to the look.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Like I said, I need to get some quotes for the wheels on there now. I see you are from South Jersey, you know anyone local?
 

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This place is supposed to be really good.
Person I got the info from said he paid @ $300 a wheel (1.5") but only had a 2 week turn around and quality was great and guarantees the work.

I was thinking of picking up some Saleen wheels and having them made into 9.5/11


Wheel Works
Burlington, NJ
Owner: Tim Smith
609-387-4488
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Holy shit $300 a wheel? Well it might be less for me and I am not in a hurry. Car can go on jackstands after the motor swap is done for a few months over the winter while the wheels got done if the price is right. But I can get the whole chrome Ultra Lite set for $970 shipped and an AM 17" setup with tires shipped for $1150.
 

DropTopPony

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Yeah I imagine its labor intensive with all the tig welding but with something like that I would want the best craftsmanship available since I would be driving 100mph on it.

You could always pick up a cheap set of XXR's etc for a different look.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Eh, if I'm going to cheap I'm going to go with the AM wheels. Or AFS maybe because then OEM center caps will fit. I'll give them a call after the holiday weekend tho and I've got pics out to another wheel restoration place to see what they charge. I don't exactly need to get the whole thing widened either. I could just get them restored and then toss a set of BFG Comp 2 Sport tires on them. I had them on my last car and they are great tires.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Soo... been awhile. Have had a LOT of other issues pop up since I last posted. Mostly wife's medical issues now. Anyway gave me a lot of time to think and plan and I'm really only going to want to have the motor out once and not worry about it blowing up at the ragged edge of what the stock rods can take.

I started looking around forums/CL for local deals and stumbled on two 4V motors for $500. They are both B headed, both Mark VIII bottom ends but one was swapped into a 96 Cobra and is fully converted minus the forged crank. Has the Cobra head castings, Cobra intake cams, Cobra intake, aftermarket TB, FRPP shorties, front cover, water pump, alternator, fuel rails... everything.







Also was able to find someone who has a Novi 2000 for a 96-98 but needs the GT stuff. So that'll be a straight swap. Go figure I'd find someone within 24 hours who has that rare part...

So going 4V, deleting IMRCs, Novi 2000, internals good for 700-800hp and rolling with it. Figure instead of spending $$$thousands on heads/cams/eddy intake for a 2V I could get this stuff basically free and make the same power.

Already researched the swap. Will have to modify the rails for returnless and then get the normal 4V swap parts and then probably pay out the ass for the Cobra throttle cable and cruise cable but it is what it is. Its a 95% drop in.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Yeah... actually turns out the "Cobra" motor is a complete Mark motor including the F2 Mark intake cams... oh well. I paid $500 for 2 Teksids, 2 sets of B heads, a real Cobra intake, Cobra valve covers, 62mm BBK TB and discontinued FRPP B head shorties. And all the other loose parts on these motors I can sell over time.

Got a buyer for my 2V pullout who wants to actually trade a bunch of spare 4V parts for it. He has the cams I need at least, hopefully he has the forged crank too although I'm not sure I'm going to do a forged crank. Car will never see more than 600hp so I dunno. Cast crank is substantially lighter than the forged one and I'm not using crazy rods or pistons either.

I just can't believe I found someone with the like... 15+ years discontinued 96-98 Novi 2000 brackets...
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Well I'm doing most likely a cast crank, MMR I beams (or Boss rods) and Manley SpeedPro pistons. None of that is good for much more than 700hp which is right around the limit of the cast crank too. I will be shifting at around 7K, maybe a little higher at 7200 but that's it. Also will be limited for a good while by a stock T45 to the 500rwhp range so really don't need to worry about it.
 

Tally_4.6

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Sounds pretty similar to my setup. 5-600 is my goal, after FI comes into play. N/A at first.

- Dished Manleys
- Boss rods
- Cast '03 crank and block
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Me either, I'm going for 11:1 on 93 octane and 10-12lbs of intercooled boost and a real good tune. There is an E85 station about 30 minutes from me but its the only one and I'm not going 30 minutes just to fill up... Oh well.

Yet another reason I'm happily going 4V is stock heads/cams/intake=stock street manners and gas mileage when my foot is out of it. And then when I want to get on it it'll turn into a complete animal.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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In other news the rare bird that is the 96-98 Novi 2000 4V mounting brackets arrived today. The blower bracket itself is not pictured but I'm still floored with how fast I found this thing. Traded my 2V brackets for it straight up. Guy who got the 2V brackets was apparently looking for months.



Can you use a 96-98 Cobra front cover with C heads if I ever decide I want to go to Cs later on? I'm going to assume yes since pretty much every other damn thing is interchangeable.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Low mileage heads and cams came in today.





Going to part almost everything else out off the other motors minus the Cobra intake and front cover I think. Probably keep one Teksid and a 6 bolt crank, I have the spare 2V I got originally sold and the guy wants the Mark motor too... I found a WAP for $250 locally that is supposedly all done already bored .020 over, decked etc... Might look into that but no receipts=... eh... I don't mind running a WAP, even lighter than the Teksid and I have yet to hear of a legit confirmed failure due to the block itself.

Also debating on what to do with the rotating assy still. Street car that will never see more than 650hp if that... Cast crank and aluminum flywheel would make for one hell of a fast spinning rotating assembly.
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Found a WAP block locally that is .020 over with only a few hours to time on the dyno. Deburred and everything already done for $325, looks basically new. Put it next to one of my JY Teksids for comparison. Just carrying them around... the WAP is not 5 lbs lighter than the Teksid it is substantially lighter than that which was very surprising to me as the internets says there is only a 5lb difference. +1 pt for IRL I guess... Was walking around carrying the WAP with 1 arm through a cylinder yesterday haha.



Still debating on forged crank. I have a cast 6 and 8 bolt which are free and 600hp and around a 7k RPM redline...I really don't think I need a forged one. And the nodular iron crank is substantially lighter...
 
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ScottyDsntKnow

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Ok, I need to stop buying parts. Cruising on CL I found a fully dressed 96 Cobra motor with a rod knock for $350 cash. Owner claims the crank is undamaged. Picked it up tonight. Now I've got my forged crank for free after I flip the cams and the intake and more $$$ for the block and the 24lb EV6 purple injectors it came with.

Kicker is the owner claims that its got aftermarket pistons and rods in it which means I might get lucky in that dept if true which ALSO means it might have ARP hardware already in it. I'll find out this week.

Anyone in or near NJ wants to buy a Teksid or two or three... let me know lol.
 

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