So after 10,000 miles, 4/20min road racing sessions, and a year full of monthly (and sometimes bi-monthly) autocross events and probably well over 100 runs, its time to part ways with my Potenza RE11's. The photos below show the abuse the front tires endured. They might have lasted longer, but the loss of ABS and bad alignment affected it. The rear tires had tons of life left, about 5/32nds left. Since they were in good condition, i sold them.
Madd Motorsports Time Attack and Autocross Build
- Thread starter B.mad
- Start date
Right now, i am working on the wiring. Move the harness to the back of the strut to avoid interference with the tires. I didnt wire it correctly, so ill need to check some wires.
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At the end of April, i was at the Knotts Berry Farm for Fabulous Fords Forever 2017. I got to meet Cody and lots of people from Instagram. The car got a lot more attention than it did last year. It even got the attention of the Marketing Coordinator from Wilwood! Had a pretty long convo with him, and got his contact info. So safe to say, i will be running their kit in the rear soon. And he got me in contact with Speedway Engineering. So lots of stuff happening. Also been in contact with Eddie@Feal Suspension and ill be getting some soon too! And i Got a k member lined up from White95. So lots of things happening!
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Product is going to be a bit slow because i will be going back to school to get my certs, and because i took upon other habits, like my Lexus and other stuff. Btw 2100 miles on the Lexus! Kinda miss my Mustang though.
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ttocs
Post Whore
why did you put spade connectors on the ends to reconnect the harness? Also looking at the crimps on those it looks like your using one of those cheap stamped crimpers/strippers?
Because i am trying to determine which wire is what. I am going to heat shrink it when its all figured out. And as far as the crimper/stripper, we just had it for a long time. I dont know much of it.
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You know HANO Motorsports likes to help out anyway we can!
ttocs
Post Whore
Yes exactly. The cheap ones will often crimp the just tight enough that later on after some twisting the connection comes loose. Give a solid pull/tug/twist on each of those before you wire them up if you are keeping them attached or it will be HELL later to try and find. Being a connection outside exposed to the elements I would not do anything short of a solder connection myselfHe means something like this:
When you need something like this:
We deal with high vibrations in most area of my facility and we MUST ensure a solid crimp. It's standard practice to crimp, then RECRIMPLIKEAMOTHER****ER and then tug on it to make sure it's solid.
I am using the cheap ones for sure. I didnt know there was a difference! [MENTION=10188]white95[/MENTION] [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] I have the good kind too, so ill just recrimp them. I still plan on heat shrinking once i learn how to solder.
ElrodKTPQ_89
Legend
Awesome on the K member man, you'll love it. Especially with a solid steering shaft and aluminum rack bushings.
A lot of times, solder is easier to do than fighting with those crimpers.
ttocs
Post Whore
HUGE difference... Recrimping should fix it but to be sure you should not be able to pull the connector off after its crimped, don't be afraid to give it a good tug. Are you going to solder to those connectors?
No i am not. Ill be soldering the wires together. Unless theres a better way?
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ttocs
Post Whore
no solder/heat shrink is the best way for sure. I am just confused why you took the time to put the connectors on there but its not important if your soldering in the end
So that i can connect and disconnect without having to cut and crimp each time. I am trying to figure out why my abs, high beams, dont work and why the corner lights and rear lights dont turn on when i arm and disarm the alarm
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