okay, ive comprised a shopping list... what do you think?

MustangChris · Apr 9, 2009

Now, keep in mind i care very highly about looks when it comes to my car... including the engine bay.

Under Drive Pullies
http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_4.6L_underdrive_pulleys.php

2 piece kit
http://www.steeda.com/products/3piece_idler_pulley_kit.php

Tensioner (which one do i need, remember Im using the steeda pulley on it...)
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=819&ptset=A&searchfor=Belt+Tensioner+Assembly

new belt to top it off...
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GOO&MfrPartNumber=4060980&PartType=1063&PTSet=A

final question:
http://www.steeda.com/products/4.6L_timing_adjuster.php

where does that go? is it hard to install? ive never seen such a device... lol.

thanks all for your help. I leanred alot from you guys (such as internal balancing on the modular motors) and good brands of HBs (when i get to that point.) I had no idea pullies could be such a son-of-a-bleach.

Willis_98GT · Apr 9, 2009

wasting your money on pulleys, all your going to get is a unbalenced crank, and a alternator failing faster. for 2whp you won't even notice

MustangChris · Apr 10, 2009

ive already got a UD pulley on the alt, and it hasnt gone out in the 4 years ive owned the car...
ive already got a UD pulley on the crank and it hasnt done anything in the 4 years ive owned the car... i just want SFI, non-piggy back style now...

blown98gt · Apr 10, 2009

i have a picture of the timing adjuster hang on let me find it.. actually glad i took a picture of this, it's the blue metallic and basically you remove your timing out of the block and you can manual adjust your timing in 1 deg increments. I really stand by this product and i think it is a good thing to have.

MustangChris · Apr 10, 2009

how does it install?
how does it work?
does it work with UDs?

thanks for all your help everyone!

blown98gt · Apr 10, 2009

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0009_how_to_install_a_steeda_timing_adjuster/index.html

there is a good write up on installing it, you don't really have to remove the a/c compressor to get the sensor out of the block because Ken at MD pulled mine out of the block without having to remove that..

i don't see why it wouldn't work with UD
and as far as how exactly it works... the pulley is reading the crack speed and the timing sensor is reading that directly by adjusting the timing adjuster the sensor reads it and adjust it on the computer

MustangChris · Apr 10, 2009

ohhh. so it plugs into the computer?

also, thanks for the write up! :-D

LI98GT · Apr 10, 2009

The Steeda T/A definately works with the Steeda UDs, but not all UDs are supported i.e. non-piggyback style.

blown98gt · Apr 10, 2009

your timing sensor is inside your block right now, basically it sits behind the A/c compressor and what the timing adjuster does it move the sensor from the block to the front of it to read the direct crank speed. (a lot of older race car guys did this because you can only adjust the timing in the computer so much and before tuners they'd using a timing adjusters to make allotments for added fuel)

i like it and i've had it on my car for the longest time i think the timing adjuster is a good buy

NERD · Apr 11, 2009

My suggestion would be to:

Forget about the UDP's they are a waist of time for full price. Steeda would be the only brand I'd trust and if you can get them used for about 100$. You'll gain more from an electric water pump about 10-12rw and it looks pretty good. I've seen this first hand on the dyno and if I had any $ left for my build this year, I'd have one.

The timing adjust is outdated, just get a tuner or a custom tune or save the money until you have enough.

If you can do the labor and you're willing the Mac LT's are 488 through TREperformance shipped. it's good for about 15rw but it sounds like sex.

I know my suggestions are more money than what you listed but they work. Here's another suggestion that doesn't cost much.

If you want to clean up your bay a little and you're willing. For about 20$/per you can get your color of your car pressed into a spray can and clean up the engine bay. Engine bay color is slightly different than actual car color so it can really bring it all together with you want the looks as well. Also there are several parts of the wiring harnesses that can be tucked to be out of sight.

mikey94gt · Apr 11, 2009

Just save for a blower and be done with it already. oh yeah, and keep your PI heads to swap on when you do the blower. I will even help you for free. and keep the tuner, we may need that with the blower.

NERD · Apr 11, 2009

mikey94gt said:
Just save for a blower and be done with it already. oh yeah, and keep your PI heads to swap on when you do the blower. I will even help you for free. and keep the tuner, we may need that with the blower.

The higher compression for a blower can and stock rods and pistons wouldn't be the best idea for regular gas and for the longevity of the engine. Even if you can run the best premium it's still going to be like a waiting bomb unless you keep the boost low at around 8psi. I would thing an I/C or meth would be good insurance if that was the build scenario. If the car was just a weekend warrior and you splashed some race fuel in the mix I could see it working a lot better but at that point you'd already be running forged rods/pistons.

Race cars can get away with high boost and high compression because of the race fuel they use.

blown98gt · Apr 11, 2009

Snow performance makes a good kit to make sure engine temps stay low, some people see 100 deg drops, i'm not sure how much mine is seeing i'd have to talk to my tuner but a intercooled P1sc kit with snow kit could be had for probably about 2700 or so... anyway... if you are planning going blower like sxynero said, higher compression isn't the best thing, higher compression is good for n/a builds so it's all about what you want to do with your car

MustangChris · Apr 12, 2009

the previous owner put piggy back style UDPs on the car.. i never liked them. and someone on this forum mentioned they may cause durability problems.

i also purchaed them in hopes that it gets rid of the awkward sound that my car is making, i think the piggy back crank pully may be throwing something out of wack, if not... im going to the drivetrain and tearing that apart. lol.

as for the blower, yes. lol. one day...

as for the PI heads... no... Trick flow FTW

as for the long tubes, im saving up for the SLPs, ive heard they are the best on the market. First things first.. once i get my car to stop making this weird sounds, im doing a 75mm TB... my car runs rich at higher RPMs... im hoping that helps out a little...

as for the paint of my engine bay... most of my parts are chrome... i dont know what i would paint... chrome CC plates, Chrome valve covers, chrome strut tower, chrome intake, chrome accents (like washer reseviour cap)

as for hiding wires: maybe when i do the battery relocation kit thats sitting in my garage...... lol.

MustangChris · Apr 12, 2009

PS:

mike where were you? lol. you never called back... after i drove all the way out there to help you with your clutch!!! :-( lol.

anyways, car is making a terrible sound... :-( im running out of ideas... if its not pulleys, im buying a new tranny... lol.

also, for the record i got the steeda UDS used cheep.

mikey94gt · Apr 12, 2009

Sorry, fell asleep. ben kinda stressed lately, stupid life. Whatcha up to today? was supposed to go 4 wheelin' today, but I will come help you out, as my buddy is being a indecisive whore.