Replacing Valve Stem Seals & Upgrading Valve Springs?

[1Broderick]

So a while ago I was driving the Mustang and it started smoking bad, like really bad. It wouldn't smoke while I was on the gas, but as soon as I let off it would just billow all over.

I'm assuming that it's the valve stem seals.

And after doing a little research I started thinking I should upgrade the valve springs as well. The car has had some pretty bad valve float.

Everywhere I look says that you need to buy new springs based on the cam you have. But the problem is that I don't have a single clue as to what cam the car has in it. :/

MY QUESTIONS

#1 How do I know what springs to buy

#2 Can I replace the seals/springs without removing the heads?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[95opal]

So a while ago I was driving the Mustang and it started smoking bad, like really bad. It wouldn't smoke while I was on the gas, but as soon as I let off it would just billow all over.

I'm assuming that it's the valve stem seals.

And after doing a little research I started thinking I should upgrade the valve springs as well. The car has had some pretty bad valve float.

Everywhere I look says that you need to buy new springs based on the cam you have. But the problem is that I don't have a single clue as to what cam the car has in it. :/

MY QUESTIONS

#1 How do I know what springs to buy

#2 Can I replace the seals/springs without removing the heads?

Thanks in advance guys!

Without pulling the timing cover to get a look at the cam there is no way of knowing. Who put the cam in? Previous owner? If so contact him otherwise no sure fire way unless you pullbthe cover.

Yes springs can be changed without pulling the heads as long as the heads dont need any clean up. Youll need a compressor and air attachment that screws into spark plug holes to keep the valve up while you swap the springs. Also a valve spring compressor.

 

[1Broderick]

Without pulling the timing cover to get a look at the cam there is no way of knowing. Who put the cam in? Previous owner? If so contact him otherwise no sure fire way unless you pullbthe cover.

Yes springs can be changed without pulling the heads as long as the heads dont need any clean up. Youll need a compressor and air attachment that screws into spark plug holes to keep the valve up while you swap the springs. Also a valve spring compressor.

The guy I bought it from didn't know what cam it was either.

I don't have a garage to work with or anywhere to pull the engine out so that's why I'm asking if I could leave the heads on.

I was just looking at buying this kit:

https://lmr.com/item/TFS-2500100/Trick-Flow-50l-302-Mustang-Valve-Springs-Upgrade-Kit

 

[95opal]

The guy I bought it from didn't know what cam it was either.

I don't have a garage to work with or anywhere to pull the engine out so that's why I'm asking if I could leave the heads on.

I was just looking at buying this kit:

https://lmr.com/item/TFS-2500100/Trick-Flow-50l-302-Mustang-Valve-Springs-Upgrade-Kit

That kit is for stock heads... Assuming thats what you have its fine. What makes you think you have a cam? Also that type of blow by can be due to an improper pcv set up. Check ro make sure your pcv is set up correctly and functioning properly before you dive into the springs and seals. How many miles are on the motor?

 

[1Broderick]

The man I bought it from told me the previous owner had a mild cam put into it.

It sounds like it has a cam, I was always uncertain as to whether it was just a bad idle.

The car has about 180k on it.

Okay I'll look into how to check the PCV.

Either way I would need new springs to fix the valve float sound right?


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[1Broderick]

The PCV valve seems to check out. It looks super clean, the mesh below it isn't looking the greatest. But I started the car and took the valve off and the idle changed a bit so it must be doing something lol

I just drove it again and when I parked it and I'm looking under the car there is oil all around the starter motor area. When in front of the car there is oil all along side the bottom right of everything.

Maybe it's a rear main seal leak?

 

[1Broderick]

 

[1Broderick]

Ran back outside and looked again. I found a hole in the oil dipstick tube! Well that must be the probelm... I looked closer and realised the tube had a lot of wiggle to it. I wiggled it and it popped right out. So I guess now I'll have to figure out how to put a new dipstick tube on haha.

 

[Nighttrain]

Let us know how you make out.

 

[1Broderick]

I went to 2 junkyards looking for a replacement dipstick tube.

They didn't have any 5.0 Mustangs so while I was there I got a 2 off of some different 5.0 Explorers.

Paid $2

Got home, neither one fit. So I taped up the original one and got it back on. I figured if it stopped leaking oil on a short drive then I could confirm it's my only problem.

Sure enough, no smoke other than what was burning off. After a few WOT pulls the tube popped off again and sprayed oil out.

I guess that could be from to much crankcase pressure.

Even though I checked the PCV valve like [MENTION=9659]95opal[/MENTION] said (thanks!), I didn't replace the screen/filter below it.

Today, a few minutes ago, after fighting with it for a solid hour, using pliers, wood screws, picks, etc. I finally got it out.

Here's what I found...

Yeah...I doubt it was very functional

Ordering a new PCV kit tonight.



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[Nighttrain]

Good job bruh. Alot of people switch to a catch can set up but in my opinion if the pcv system is kept up on it works juat fine

 

[1Broderick]

Good job bruh. Alot of people switch to a catch can set up but in my opinion if the pcv system is kept up on it works juat fine

Yeah I'm hoping the new one will solve my problems haha.

Now the struggle is finding a replacement dipstick tube. I would just buy a flexible one but I have a feeling that it will be impossible to press into the hole while the engine is in the car. I can't get my hands down far enough to push on the end and it's too tight to fit a tool to tap it in at the bottom. Hmmm

 

[95opal]

Yeah I'm hoping the new one will solve my problems haha.

Now the struggle is finding a replacement dipstick tube. I would just buy a flexible one but I have a feeling that it will be impossible to press into the hole while the engine is in the car. I can't get my hands down far enough to push on the end and it's too tight to fit a tool to tap it in at the bottom. Hmmm

If you jack the car up you will be able to get at the dipstick from underneath.

 

[1Broderick]

If you jack the car up you will be able to get at the dipstick from underneath.

Okay I'll give that a try when I find a one.

Do you think a foxbody dipstick/tube will work?

 

[Nighttrain]

Okay I'll give that a try when I find a one.

Do you think a foxbody dipstick/tube will work?

I gotta find the thread here but someone put a really nice one on their car. Had a billet knob on it kinda like a headlight knob. Looked real nice.

 

[1Broderick]

I gotta find the thread here but someone put a really nice one on their car. Had a billet knob on it kinda like a headlight knob. Looked real nice.

Yeah I think you might be talking about the Lokar dipstick! I'm just scared I won't be able to tap/push it into the hole because it's flexible. I might go ahead and give it a try though.

 

[Nighttrain]

Yeah I think you might be talking about the Lokar dipstick! I'm just scared I won't be able to tap/push it into the hole because it's flexible. I might go ahead and give it a try though.

Thats it!

 

[95opal]

Yeah I think you might be talking about the Lokar dipstick! I'm just scared I won't be able to tap/push it into the hole because it's flexible. I might go ahead and give it a try though.

You wont have a problem with the lokar dipstick. I ran one in my old stock block combo and am using one in my current dart block combo. No issues

 

[1Broderick]

You wont have a problem with the lokar dipstick. I ran one in my old stock block combo and am using one in my current dart block combo. No issues

I'll probably go ahead and order one then

 

[RichV]

Just looking at the motor pics, I seriously doubt it has any sort of cam. Absolutely no reason to put a cam in there. Looks all stock not very well maintained.

When I bought my 94, I was told it was a rebuilt motor. Either I was lied to or the PO got taken, so that's the way it goes if you don't have any sort of proof.

So back to your issues, you think you have valve float and leaky seals. Only way to know for sure is to do a compression and leak down test. But just from what you described, if the PCV like Opal suggested is good, it's your rings that are cause of the smoke out the tailpipe. I had a BMW with a trashed bottom end that did this exact thing. Have you removed plugs to see if it's specific cylinders with issues or all of them? My guess is that the motor has been neglected before you got it and now you get to deal with it, unfortunately.