Social Distancer build for boost

glittle75

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Last part order showed up today. It was very weird and the ARP bolt packaging was open. The side bolt kit I was sent was not what I ordered as well. So I have to return it and get the correct bolts before I can continue. But everything else was good.
Mcleod clutch
Friction surface for flywheel
Break in oil
Loctite Anaerobic sealer for blower parts.
ARP crank bolt, cam bots and side bolts.

Also a few more misc. tools not pictured. Ring pliers, compressor, etc.
IMG_2021.jpg
Once the side bolts get here, hopefully beginning of the week, the build can commence.
 

glittle75

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yea I would be suspect of any bolts or studs that came out of the package especially for what you pay for ARP. If it was a discounted item thats different but if it was sold as new I would have an issue with it. they probably say ARP on them right?

http://www.thecounterfeitreport.com/product/486/Bolts.html

o wow, I was not aware of the fake bolt problem. I got them all from summit. I will closely inspect them all now. That is insane. Thanks for the info!
 

ttocs

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honestly it was the first I had heard of it myself after a quick search. After discovering that they were make bunk memory chips I realized that anything could be faked now and done well. I worked in the semiconductor manf industry and know what kind of plant it takes to make a single chip. Its HUGE and filled with thousands of people. I also know that there is a huge difference in price just because of what is printed on it. Same thing with these bolts... I don't think that the place would knowingly sell you bad/fake parts but I do know WAY too many people that would be willing to buy a set of each(real and fake) and then return the fake for the real price and use the real bolts. The shop puts them back on the shelf to resell after the quickest of inspections(if yer lucky) and then when you order, you get them. I would demand a new set myself as I have chased a broken bolt to know I do not want to do it again.
 

glittle75

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More progress this weekend. Side bolts came in, verified they were real. And started bolting stuff together.
Got the pistons in, everything went together very smooth. IMG_2034.jpg

Got everything buttoned up on the crank and rods, installed ARP hardware. Then installed the DSS girdle. With a 2 bolts main, some of the bigger shops have seen the main caps walk. So we will give it a shot. It is a very well made piece. Requires the oil pickup tube and hardware to be modified a bit, nothing major.
IMG_2040.jpg

Used a dial to find TDC and check piston to deck height. At TDC, the pistons are .012" below deck.
IMG_2039.jpg
Put the heads on, started putting the cams in. Lobe lift for these are .495" each. Too high for the cam cap clearance. All the exhaust cam lobes were hitting the cam caps and the intake lobes had only .005" clearance at most. I used a carbide bit on a die grinder to get most of the clearance done, maybe .008". Then finished with a file by hand to ensure .010" feeler clearance between all the lobes and caps. I did not want the caps to act as scrapers by having a real tight clearance. IMG_2041.jpg

After that, I was able to install the cams and begin the degree process. These cams call for a 110 Intake Centerline, and 118 Exhaust Centerline. I was able to get them both within half~ish a degree. The right bank (passenger) side I was able to get it to 109.75 ICL and 117.75 ECL without modifying anything. They started at 112 and 120 just installed rough, there was enough play in the cam gears to get the 2 degrees needed. The Left bank was a different story. I started with 118 ICL and 126 ECL. Using the slop in the gears, I was able to get it down to 114/122. So I took the primary gear out, filed the keyway on the gear a little at a time. I was able to get it to 110.25 and 118.25 centerlines. Took two times of filing to get it right. IMG_2049.jpg

Degreeing is not as difficult as it seems. This was my first time doing a 4v. Only done 2v's before. I would say it took 5 hours all together. 1 hour per cam because I would triple check every cam after it read correctly for the first time. And an hour of setup, cleaning, and filing.
IMG_2050.jpg

After that was done, I installed the tensioners, lash adjusters and followers. Rotated the engine a ton by hand and lubed the chains and guides for a final time. Started to put all the covers on. Pan, timing and valve covers. IMG_2051.jpg

Decided to grab some stainless hardware for the valve cover and coil covers. IMG_2042.jpg

Tomorrow I will have some time to keep going. Will post more when I get the chance!
 

glittle75

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Got a bit behind on posting. I was trying to get the car done so I could drop it off to the tuner this week.
Engine and trans going in. Was a huge PITA with the bigger pan. Had to drop it in just enough to clear the pan over the K member, then put the LTs on while it was hanging, then slide it all in the rest of the way. I definitely feel like I did it the hardest way possible, especially working by myself.
IMG_2054.JPG

In there, took a bit of wiggling, but I got it.
IMG_2061.JPG

Next comes the blower. Made sure to take everything apart and clean / reseal. Everything looked good so back on it goes. Using the hoist made it much easier for me by myself as well lol!
IMG_2064.JPG

And in. Also shout out to Midd Tenn Decals for the coil cover decals!
IMG_2065.JPG

After talking to my tuner, he wanted more fuel system in the car. Ended up going with a Lethal Performance return setup. Division X hat, dual 465 pumps, -8 Feed, -6 Return, Division X regulator.
IMG_2062.JPG

Got the regulator installed. Not a huge fan of this setup. It's huge and the FRPS mount is not the best. But it's what we got for now until I get some new rails.

IMG_2067.JPG

Putting the hat in, this piece from Division X was beautiful. Everything went together perfect over all with the fuel system. IMG_2073.JPG

The lethal return harness was super easy to wire and route. Mounted in the stock FPDM location. Removed my modded FPDM and the BAP. IMG_2074.JPG

After that I was able to stick all the body panels back on, get it on the trailer and drop it off at Fastlane Motorsports in Benson, NC for an initial tune for break in. Caleb, the tuner there, is going to drive the car saturday to get the drivability dialed in perfect in the tune and I should be able to pick it up Monday and put 5-600 break in miles on it. Then back to him for dyno tuning.

Borrowed truck, rented trailer lol!
IMG_2076.JPG
Stay tuned for more!
 

96blak54

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Well.... I was to late!

IMG_2050~2.jpg

Dood this build is awesome! And this build thread is kickin a$$!

But im to late to inform you, swap to the iron tensioners! Those plastic ones are prone to self destructing!

Any chain slap and they gone!

Good luck brother
 
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glittle75

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Well.... I was to late!

View attachment 3843

Dood this build is awesome! And this build thread is kickin a$$!

But im to late to inform you, swap to the iron tensioners! Those plastic ones are prone to self destructing!

Any chain slap and they gone!

Good luck brother

Any good examples of this destruction? I can’t find anyone that has actually had them fail. I can find a lot of shops that sell iron ones, saying that they fail.
I have been bouncing this thing off of a 4500rpm 2 step and 6800 limiter for years. Never a single issue.
Just my experience though. Maybe I have been lucky lol.
 

96blak54

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I do believe luck has been on your side.

Also Im gonna need a name of that shop stating an iron tensioner fails. Or they can claim a plastic tensioner is better than the iron one. Not arguing with you here, i would just like to know.
 

glittle75

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I do believe luck has been on your side.

Also Im gonna need a name of that shop stating an iron tensioner fails. Or they can claim a plastic tensioner is better than the iron one. Not arguing with you here, i would just like to know.

MMR has iron tensioners for sale stating it’s a upgrade from plastic. Most of it is framed that way. That the plastic ones are inferior. But I have yet to see an actual failure or reason for it.

It’s like people claim the cast cranks in the GTs are weaker than the forged cranks of the Mach and Cobras. Show me a broken Cast 4.6 crank. I can’t find one. It just seems like misinformation that spreads around without any real incidences of failure.

If these fail, I will post up and buy some nicer ones. My plan is to break everything in, hit the dyno for final tuning, and then to my local 660’ on the 2 step and no lift shifting. All of that will be updated here and over on Mach 1 registry for sure!

not arguing either, don’t get me wrong. But every part of this engine was thought about. Todd Warren made almost all of the recommendations for timing components, cams, valvetrain, and pistons. If someone wants to make another suggestion, I welcome it! But I would like to see the reasons for the suggestion.
 

50HSN95

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Very nice car! I like that rich flat black on the timing cover and valve covers. Always liked the look of the Mach1 cars, especially in that blue.

The valve cover decals are funny, I seen another similar one that was a window decal saying "Honk 3 Times to get Social Distanced". I'm glad people have a sense of humor about this stuff.
 

Boostr1

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Nice build. I did the exact same thing with my fuel system. Thought it would be a pain to run the Lethal Performance Dual Pump wire upgrade, but it was pretty simple. Fishing the line by the back seat was the difficult part. Did your G3 Division X Hat come assembled with pumps installed. I have the G2 DX hat with the pig tails it was a PITA to install the Walbro GSS 342s. Ya also have plug on your hat which is only on the G3. I had to do my own connectors on the G2.

20200426_173101.jpg
 

glittle75

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Very nice car! I like that rich flat black on the timing cover and valve covers. Always liked the look of the Mach1 cars, especially in that blue.

The valve cover decals are funny, I seen another similar one that was a window decal saying "Honk 3 Times to get Social Distanced". I'm glad people have a sense of humor about this stuff.
Got to have a sense of humor lol. Thanks for the kind words!

Nice build. I did the exact same thing with my fuel system. Thought it would be a pain to run the Lethal Performance Dual Pump wire upgrade, but it was pretty simple. Fishing the line by the back seat was the difficult part. Did your G3 Division X Hat come assembled with pumps installed. I have the G2 DX hat with the pig tails it was a PITA to install the Walbro GSS 342s. Ya also have plug on your hat which is only on the G3. I had to do my own connectors on the G2.

View attachment 3879
The hat did come assembled, but all I had to do was slide the pumps in and tighten the hose clamps. The pumps just have connectors to the hat connection. Easy as on the gen 3.
I also ran the wires outside the car, just straight out the grommet below the fuel rollover switch. My battery is in the trunk and the cables for it go outside the car as well, out the trunk, through the frame rail, then along the inside of the pinch weld to the driver fenderwell where the power box is. The engine bay is wire tucked, so everything that can be under the fenders, is. So the pump wires just followed the battery positive all the way up. Pretty easy to just loosen the cable clamps and run those wires through as well.
 

Boostr1

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I couldn't get the pumps in without removing the pump holder from the spine. It was a pain even with the WD-40. Broke one of the pumps the first go around so I had to order another.
Pro tip: Don't use a hammer of any type...
 

glittle75

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I couldn't get the pumps in without removing the pump holder from the spine. It was a pain even with the WD-40. Broke one of the pumps the first go around so I had to order another.
Pro tip: Don't use a hammer of any type...
I couldn’t get them a first with grease on the rings. I just used heat on the holder part for maybe 30 seconds and they slid right in. Just a small butane cigar lighter. I learned long ago that heat is most times better than a hammer when fitting metal parts lol.
 

Boostr1

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I couldn’t get them a first with grease on the rings. I just used heat on the holder part for maybe 30 seconds and they slid right in. Just a small butane cigar lighter. I learned long ago that heat is most times better than a hammer when fitting metal parts lol.

I should of thought about that, I guess I forgot everything I learned at the machine shop those many years ago...lol
 

glittle75

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Well, shes alive. Had the starter go bad for some reason (my luck) and the water pump seal got pinched on install. After changing both of those the tuner was able to get it running and driving great. The Street Extreme clutch from Mcleod has a very very light pedal compared to my old setup. The first drive was rough lol. I have 200 miles on it so far, another 200 and I will change the BR30 out for Mobil. Then 100 on that and off to the dyno!
 

glittle75

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Break in complete, runs and drives great with no issues. Loving the McLeod clutch after getting used to it. Very smooth and light for a unit that can handle 700hp.

After having some difficulty with my local tuner, And others not willing to work with me at all, I will be going with a stand alone Holley EFI and tuning it myself. Talked to Holley, and will be going with a Terminator X setup. Have to cruise to a dyno day at some point to see a number, but we will see what ET it puts down and guesstimate from there based on weight.
It’s unfortunate when a shop’s personal issues bleed over to the customers. But such is life and I want no involvement in a shop's drama. I’ll just tune it myself.

Alright, well went through some pains with the Holley EFI setup.
I ordered a Terminator X kit. Also the USB-CAN harness and a 3 bar MAP sensor. 3 bar gives me the ability to go up to 30psi of boost. I will be shooting for 18psi.
Holley harness.jpeg
After it arrived i ran all the harnesses and was able to start the car. However, I could not get the IAC working, and the idle was all over the place after moving the throttle at all.
After much troubleshooting, I was sent the wrong main harness. It happens, some one put the wrong thing in the wrong box. The correct harness should be here on Monday. All the other harnesses and wires are ran, So i should just be able to plug it in and get to idle tuning. On to some pics!

OEM harness on top, Holley harness on bottom. The holley uses really nice wrapping and everything is already to the correct length, making for any easy install!
old v ew.jpeg

Factory harness unwrapped. I am keeping the stock PCM in the car to run the stock cluster and AC. Found an electrical diagram and printed it.
wiring.jpeg

Unpinned the large connector that usually hides out in the back left corner of the engine bay. I only need the crank sensor from this so the Tach will work. Once I put the holley harness in the car, I will splice into it for the signal, split it to the PCM and Holley, and the tach will work.
Crank harness.jpeg

I also ended up using the speed sensor that goes to the trans to drive the speedo on the dash. No pic, but its the DG/WT wire from the PCM harness, to the trans sensor, and the other side of the sensor gets grounded by the PCM.

There is a sub-harness that the AC clutch wires are hiding in. I just pulled them out, and re-pinned them to length so I can tuck them under the frame rail.
AC Harness.jpeg
 

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