Suspension and tire advice

[g36 monkey]

That's why I'm liking this class it's mostly stock cars with some mods. Any preferred struts? And is it better to stick with 9" all around than a staggered setup?

For Autox, I would grab 9" (255 to 275) 200 TW tires all around, with lightweight wheels if it doesn't count as a modification. You will likely see your biggest improvement there. I currently run a staggered setup and am saving to go back to a square setup. Square has too many added benefits. Being able to rotate, only having to order one style of tire in case of a blowout, more likely to get deals for 4 of the same tire, etc.

If you are sticking with springs with struts and shocks outside, you need to get them rated accordingly. Your spring/shock will have a rating, you need to get springs within that rating. So until you decide what you want to run, I cannot tell you what shock/strut to run.

I personally have Bilstein in the rear and adjustable Koni up front, but I am also on coilovers all around.

 

[ReplicaR]

Read through the rules of suspension for STP, seems to be pretty wide open. I would absolutely maximize the amount of tire you can use, run the 315s on 11 inch wheel all around. Get the torque arm and panhard setup, Koni adjustable shocks with coilovers, and figure out the rest of the balance with sway bars. For front camber, run as much as possible, at the very least -3.5 camber, and however much caster you can get. SN95s aren't the most competitive chassis out there, so you need as much mechanical grip as possible. Huge tires, and proper rear suspension, combined with good shocks and high spring rates should serve that car well.

 

[g36 monkey]

Read through the rules of suspension for STP, seems to be pretty wide open. I would absolutely maximize the amount of tire you can use, run the 315s on 11 inch wheel all around. Get the torque arm and panhard setup, Koni adjustable shocks with coilovers, and figure out the rest of the balance with sway bars. For front camber, run as much as possible, at the very least -3.5 camber, and however much caster you can get. SN95s aren't the most competitive chassis out there, so you need as much mechanical grip as possible. Huge tires, and proper rear suspension, combined with good shocks and high spring rates should serve that car well.

I didn't look into the STP class so if it's wide open then I would do what he said.

 

[ReplicaR]

I didn't look into the STP class so if it's wide open then I would do what he said.

First rule of modifying car for class: Always read the class rules lol

 

[searay86]

So until you decide what you want to run, I cannot tell you what shock/strut to run.

Wheres a good starting point?

315s on 11 inch wheel all around

315s in the front?? Good lord that big lmao. There a lot of work to get them to fit?

For front camber, run as much as possible, at the very least -3.5 camber, and however much caster you can get.

Full race car, I like it

SN95s aren't the most competitive chassis out there, so you need as much mechanical grip as possible

Yeah I know I'm starting with a disadvantage but I love the car and if I can keep up the local guys I'll be happy

 

[PinkieT]

I tried to find the class rules on line, but had no luck. I would love to read them just for fun. Can anybody post a link?

Thanks!

 

[ReplicaR]

315s in the front?? Good lord that big lmao. There a lot of work to get them to fit?


Full race car, I like it


Yeah I know I'm starting with a disadvantage but I love the car and if I can keep up the local guys I'll be happy

315s should fit ok under stock fenders, maybe stick out an inch, which isn't against the rules last I checked. As far as the alignment is concerned, 3.5 should be a good starting point. That's about as much as I could get out of Koni dampers and full MM kit on the car, with camber plates slid all the way inside. I actually ended up going a bit further, and dremmeling out the lower spindle bolt hole on the strut, so that I could get even more camber gain through that, ending up with -4.5 degrees. The car seemed to really like that, so that's the setting I'm running now. The biggest disadvantage of SN95 is that it's a very numb car, lacking feel and feedback through everything. I'm using my daily driver for AutoX now (G37S sedan in SCCA FS), and it's got much more feedback through absolutely everything, which grows me as a driver much better.

 

[searay86]

I tried to find the class rules on line, but had no luck. I would love to read them just for fun. Can anybody post a link?

Thanks!

I can't link it (mobile) but I linked the rules in comment 18

 

[searay86]

Koni dampers and full MM kit on the car, with camber plates slid all the way inside.

I have absolutely NO experience with suspension but I'll dive right in, what could go wrong .

The biggest disadvantage of SN95 is that it's a very numb car,

What should I be looking for in feedback?

I'm using my daily driver for AutoX now

same I'm still going to drive my car on the daily. Its car. They're ment to be driven.

 

[ReplicaR]

So, with G37, I can actually feel the passenger in the car, the front end tells me when it's about to let go, I can feel the rear wheels slip through how the chassis reacts, brakes get different feedback when they are stopping well vs when they are about to lock up. None of those things are very sharp on the Mustang, so you kinda have to drive it by memory.

If you have limited experience, I would spend at least a couple of full seasons working on technique, because that will give you the most benefit. If there are good drivers in your region, try to get them to do a ride along with you, see if they can offer some tips about how to increase speed without spending money and modifying the car.

 

[PinkieT]

I can't link it (mobile) but I linked the rules in comment 18

Thanks! I didn't see that it was a link. I just downloaded all 324 pages. Yikes!

 

[searay86]

I can actually feel the passenger in the car, the front end tells me when it's about to let go

And that all comes with time and practice. You really need to understand the car.

try to get them to do a ride along with you, see if they can offer some tips

Everyone in my club is great. I ride with other Mustangs a lot. I haven't gotten much advice but as I learn more I'll ask questions

 

[searay86]

Thanks! I didn't see that it was a link. I just downloaded all 324 pages. Yikes!

Skip to pg 71, they're the STP rules

 

[ReplicaR]

And that all comes with time and practice. You really need to understand the car.

Everyone in my club is great. I ride with other Mustangs a lot. I haven't gotten much advice but as I learn more I'll ask questions

Sounds like you're on the right track then. Best advice I can give is listen to fast people, talk to manufacturers as much as possible, and push the car setup to the limit of the class.

 

[evilcw311]

And remember, the driver mod is the most important!!!!


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[searay86]

Sounds like you're on the right track then. Best advice I can give is listen to fast people, talk to manufacturers as much as possible, and push the car setup to the limit of the class.

Thanks!!

 

[searay86]

And remember, the driver mod is the most important!!!!


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And the driver is the weakest link [emoji14]

 

[evilcw311]

And the driver is the weakest link [emoji14]

So your saying there’s a weak link between the seat and steering wheel?? lol


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[searay86]

So your saying there’s a weak link between the seat and steering wheel?? lol


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LOL exactly something there is slow and doesn't know what it's doing

 

[g36 monkey]

First rule of modifying car for class: Always read the class rules lol

Haha I just didn't look this time! I run CAM-C so I am not competitive at all, just for fun

By far the biggest thing, as mentioned, is seat time. And doing so with instructors/fast people will help you out more than anything. I will admit sometimes I am bad about swallowing my pride and asking someone better for help, but most people in this hobby are very willing to give pointers.