the momstang rebuild begins TOOK A TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK!

ttocs · Mar 1, 2021

The stereo will be a long term project so I started a page for it in the electronics section
https://www.sn95forums.com/threads/started-the-stereo.76937/#post-1482508

I finally got the throw out bearing pulled out.

I had to go get a bigger slide hammer(I know bread) but it popped right out after that.

It was at that time I realized I didn't have the right ford racing bearing so I ordered that. It will be here tomorrow and while I was waiting I decided to replace my valve cover gaskets as I have had a leak down the back of the motor for some time now. Today I got the intake off and the drivers side replaced. The passenger side requires I take off my big ass alternator so I decided to save that for tomorrow.

ttocs · Apr 3, 2021

I got to the point of measuring the run out and of course discovering that I needed offset dowels to get it with in tolerances. Everyone I talked to said they just used a little heat and then some vice grips to pull the old dowels out but it didn't seem to matter how much heat or how tight the grips were that they were not budging. I spent a fair amount of time in this position, the mechanics universal symbol for "FUCK YOU!"

I went to plan b and welded some bolts together that allowed me to attach the vice grips to my slide hammer but all it did was yank the grips off the dowels.

I tried drilling into it to tap it but there is only about 6" of space between it and the trans hump and its 2 ft above my head and after a short time trying I realized this was going to be more difficult than it sounded. I didn't want to weld to it if I could help it but I was not sure if there was enough space to even use a pin puller kit and also didn't want to spend $100 on it to try it, but I bit the bullet and got the kit. YUP there is not enough room for it so at this point was time to pull out the welder and get nasty with it. By Nasty I mean laying under a fiberglass blanket to keep from catching myself on fire while welding over my head. somehow even with a hoody on I am still itching all over...

But most importantly FUCK THOSE FUCKING MOFO'S if you can excuse my french.

Once the angle iron was welded to them I was able to wiggle them out fairly easily. Now to return that pin puller kit and read the step of what to do after the dowels are removed but today was a good day...

Boostr1 · Apr 6, 2021

ttocs said:
I got to the point of measuring the run out and of course discovering that I needed offset dowels to get it with in tolerances. Everyone I talked to said they just used a little heat and then some vice grips to pull the old dowels out but it didn't seem to matter how much heat or how tight the grips were that they were not budging. I spent a fair amount of time in this position, the mechanics universal symbol for "FUCK YOU!"

I went to plan b and welded some bolts together that allowed me to attach the vice grips to my slide hammer but all it did was yank the grips off the dowels.

I tried drilling into it to tap it but there is only about 6" of space between it and the trans hump and its 2 ft above my head and after a short time trying I realized this was going to be more difficult than it sounded. I didn't want to weld to it if I could help it but I was not sure if there was enough space to even use a pin puller kit and also didn't want to spend $100 on it to try it, but I bit the bullet and got the kit. YUP there is not enough room for it so at this point was time to pull out the welder and get nasty with it. By Nasty I mean laying under a fiberglass blanket to keep from catching myself on fire while welding over my head. somehow even with a hoody on I am still itching all over...

But most importantly FUCK THOSE FUCKING MOFO'S if you can excuse my french.

Once the angle iron was welded to them I was able to wiggle them out fairly easily. Now to return that pin puller kit and read the step of what to do after the dowels are removed but today was a good day...

I used to work at a machine shop where we resurfaced flywheels, and those pins were a pain to remove with the flywheel out the of the vehicle even with a pin puller.

ttocs · Jul 6, 2021

in case you missed it in my trans post I have been waiting for a low profile shifter to get me just a tad more space between the trans tunnel and shifter. They said it would take 2 weeks and now 2 months later I had to say screw them and find another way. I really did not want to take the dash out to cut the tunnel so I decided to try a different rout. The tremec shifter plate had 1/2" bolts that stuck up out of the top of it and they were the first thing to hit. I took the plate to a machine shop and had the screw holes that hit modified to allow for a flat head recessed bolt that will sit flush with the top of the cover.

After that I was JUST a tad short from making it so I ordered some 1/4" K-member spacers from M&M to try and squeeze the last little bit. They came in today and I am happy to say that with them it, it finally fits.

Its tight I will see if its too tight.

I hope to get the driveshaft dropped off to have it shortened tomorrow while I work on figuring out a hanger for the x-pipe in the middle.

ttocs · Jul 12, 2021

ok so I got the exhaust bung plug I needed and got it installed and I went to turn the key to start it and heard a bad sound, fuel hitting the floor.

Now I have done NO work near this area while the car has been down for the past couple of months waiting. The two holes in it are just for mounting. Originally I had fuel coming out of all 3 ports on it but after loosening and tightening the smaller -08 lines they sealed up but now the -10 is still pissing. The orings between the fittings do not seem to be hitting both sides of the fittings for some reason but I thought that they were more of a secondary seal?

lwarrior1016 · Jul 13, 2021

ttocs said:
in case you missed it in my trans post I have been waiting for a low profile shifter to get me just a tad more space between the trans tunnel and shifter. They said it would take 2 weeks and now 2 months later I had to say screw them and find another way. I really did not want to take the dash out to cut the tunnel so I decided to try a different rout. The tremec shifter plate had 1/2" bolts that stuck up out of the top of it and they were the first thing to hit. I took the plate to a machine shop and had the screw holes that hit modified to allow for a flat head recessed bolt that will sit flush with the top of the cover.

After that I was JUST a tad short from making it so I ordered some 1/4" K-member spacers from M&M to try and squeeze the last little bit. They came in today and I am happy to say that with them it, it finally fits.

Its tight I will see if its too tight.

I hope to get the driveshaft dropped off to have it shortened tomorrow while I work on figuring out a hanger for the x-pipe in the middle.

I’m glad you were able to get it in.
Why didn’t you just use a Drexel and cut the front of that opening so the shifter comes through the floor?

ttocs · Jul 13, 2021

lwarrior1016 said:
I’m glad you were able to get it in.
Why didn’t you just use a Drexel and cut the front of that opening so the shifter comes through the floor?

I really felt to do it right and safely I would need to remove the dash/carpet or risk cutting it up or catching it on fire from the sparks and I just did not want to go through that much trouble. I also don't know if a dremel would have done much on how thick the steel was in that location. I cut a small section off of the bottom that gained me a 1/4" but there was more steel above so it wasn't a concern.

Now I just need to figure out why a dist block starts leaking from lack of use...

lwarrior1016 · Jul 13, 2021

ttocs said:
I really felt to do it right and safely I would need to remove the dash/carpet or risk cutting it up or catching it on fire from the sparks and I just did not want to go through that much trouble. I also don't know if a dremel would have done much on how thick the steel was in that location. I cut a small section off of the bottom that gained me a 1/4" but there was more steel above so it wasn't a concern.

Now I just need to figure out why a dist block starts leaking from lack of use...

Are you sure the o-rings are rated for fuel use? Specifically ethanol based fuel.

ttocs · Jul 13, 2021

lwarrior1016 said:
Are you sure the o-rings are rated for fuel use? Specifically ethanol based fuel.

that was my first concern, not sure how to check. They have a sour aftertaste if that helps

going to the store in a few to replace them and hope that is all it was.

lwarrior1016 · Jul 13, 2021

ttocs said:
that was my first concern, not sure how to check. They have a sour aftertaste if that helps going to the store in a few to replace them and hope that is all it was.

What store do you have local that has the correct o rings? I always have to order mine.

ttocs · Jul 13, 2021

lwarrior1016 said:
What store do you have local that has the correct o rings? I always have to order mine.

napa is my goto when I need the guys behind the counter to know what I need. They grabbed a little carrier that must have had a couple dozen sizes and matched them up. .75 worth of orings later its no longer pissing fuel. The old ones are thinner and they are corroding/leaving a black crap on my fingers. Now if that damn driveshaft would only get fixed....

lwarrior1016 · Jul 13, 2021

ttocs said:
napa is my goto when I need the guys behind the counter to know what I need. They grabbed a little carrier that must have had a couple dozen sizes and matched them up. .75 worth of orings later its no longer pissing fuel. The old ones are thinner and they are corroding/leaving a black crap on my fingers. Now if that damn driveshaft would only get fixed....

The old o rings were not made for fuel. Did you make sure the new ones are viton?

ttocs · Jul 13, 2021

I told them it had to be safe for fuel and I trust my napa dudes 100x more than I do any other place. This store has had the same crew for the last 8-10 yrs and knows what they are doing.

ttocs · Jul 30, 2021

I swear its one thing after another and always a hurry up and wait for parts and hope they work. The motor was not reving up correctly for the first half a second or so it would bog down and then go up. I thought it was the tps but needed to connect my laptop to check and to do that I had to update the firmware on the ecu. After that I was correct that the tps was not reading correctly so I took it off to find this.

I go the rubber in the right position but for some reason it still would not read correctly so I ordered a new one, damn gotta way 4 days. It came in yesterday(the hottest day of th year so far) and I went out to install it only to find the replacement was bad as well. The blade that rotates to read the throttle was actually loose and could be moved about 20 degrees before it started to engage the sensor. So I go back this morning and of course hurry up and wait till tuesday. F this shit.......

ttocs · Aug 5, 2021

I can't explain to you happiness I felt when I got the new tps (after a week of tps jokes) and it actually worked. If it didn't the neighbors would have been scared with the cursing that would have come from my garage. But after that I got to installing my newest addition from killerglass.com.

This was the first start so there was a LOT of air inside. I got out my zero fill funnel and hooked it up and let it run for 20 mins and was still surprised to be seeing some air, but not much. Then as soon as I turned the motor off the killerglass pipe would drain completely. I started it up again and got a bunch more out but to where it looked clean but when I turned the motor off there was still a good bubble in the pipe. I did it a third time and got it down to this point.

I finally relented and dropped the back down to the ground and left the front up in the air and it cleared it. I had been having some temp issues after it ran for a long time, now I know why. The last time to get that last bubble out it would only open the thermostat a little before it was cooling itself enough, never got over 190.

So then I got cray cray and took the jackstands out of the front. It looks and sounds different with the wheels on the ground for the first time in months. Its time to see if the t56 rolls nice shortly....

ttocs · Aug 5, 2021

finally... After being delayed by snow/ice storms, waiting for assholes to send parts they never were going to, installing cats on the xpipe, bad fuel system o-rings, 2 bad tps sensors, upgrading firmware on the ecu and finally burping the coolant I have 6 gears. I took it out for a short drive and threw it in to 6th at 55 just to see that it was at 1500 rpms. I have to laugh that now I actually don't like the sound of the exhaust as much with the cut outs closed as it just sounds a little pinched or something, i am not sure how to explain it. But with the cut outs open now I am happy with the sound.

Tomorrow I am going to be getting things ready for a road trip on saterday to just outside indy to hopefully finally use that ticket I got 18 months ago to take 3 laps around the track in a 2020 gt500. I plan to get the insurance and drive it like I stole it if my stomach lets me play(fingers crossed).

DKblue98GT · Aug 6, 2021

Awesome! The clear coolant tube looks cool.

joemomma · Aug 6, 2021

That's super cool. Glad you're back on the road finally.

Venompower · Aug 6, 2021

Congrats! It's gotta feel good to have your hard work pay off.

ttocs · Aug 6, 2021

Venompower said:
Congrats! It's gotta feel good to have your hard work pay off.

as soon as my ass quits puckering from watching the gauges like a hawk, listening to every rattle like an bat and feeling like a blood hound for the slightest smells, it should be really fun! Now I just need to get the damn odometer working on the holley so I can see when I have done the break in milage. I have never got it to work.